Let me answer your questions in order.....
1. Solar Controller Fuse - Per the schematic I posted, there should be a 10-gauge orange wire needs to connect to the positive terminal of one of the house batteries. There should actiually be three wires (that aren't battery cables) attached to one of the positive terminals. The other two are a yellow 14-guage wire for the auxiliary start and a red 12-gauge wires for the powered steps. If you cannot find three small wires connected to one of the posts of positive posts to the house batteries, your coach could be wired incorrectly (somewhat unlikely nut possible). In my coach i can take my dinnette seat top off to gain access to the back of the solar controller. You should try to gain access to yours to see if the fuse is located there.
2. Maintaining Chassis Battery- If you are plugged into shore power (run the generator) or have solar power, the coach will charge the chassis batteries via the BIM160 (Battery Isolation Manager).
3. FireFly Multiplex System - If your coach is still under warranty, you should not be paying a dime for any FireFly firmware updates. My SV34 has the water pump under the bed. It is not hard to gain access to it to see the model. Mine is a ShurFlow 4008. In ancy case, you want your dealer or the Thor Service Center to deal with this issue because you should not have to pay to address it.
4. Water Tank Leak - Again, if your coach is under warranty, youc an e-mail Thor Warranty Customer Support and explain what happened and you had to have the issue addressed by a third party. They will most likely ask for a copy of the repair invoice and then send you a check for the repair. On my last coach I had an issue with the levelers after driving 6 hours from the dealer for another repair. I determined it was the pressure sensor, ordered one from Amazon for $110 and wrote Thor about it. They had me return the faulity party and receipt and they sent me a check. In the end it was cheaper than having it fixed at a dealer. Your repair will be less expensive than the cost of $500 for the unit opplus labor.
5. Anwing Hydraulic Arm Lubrication - I do not recommend WD40. You want a dry PTFE lubucant like this one. I spray some on a paper towel and then wipe down the hydraulic piston and then spray it on all of the joints. Solves the problem perfectly. You can also use this lube for the slide out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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