Quote:
Originally Posted by gmc
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Using the calculator - IF you had a solid 28amp draw all night - as Oneilkeys said - you need almost 600amps (584).. (the 75% number he referred to) *BUT* I wouldn't expect the fridge to run continuously unless someone is staring inside it with the door open all night  - so the question is how much does it run??
(or what is the current battery capacity - and we can probably extrapolate from there how much longer you will get...)
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Excellent point. If you look at typical residential refrigerator energy consumption, most newer ones use around 2 kWh or less of energy per day on average. Divided by 24 hours that's less than 100 watts on average, and we should expect that nighttime power consumption to be lower than daily average.
If using 28 Amps (over 300 watts) to primarily run the fridge (a few LEDs are insignificant), it means one of a few things:
1) Refrigerator is an energy hog (not efficient)
2) Refrigerator isn't running most of the time at night
3) Inverter isn't very efficient at that low power rate
4) A combination of above
My sister's 5er has a large residential fridge with 4 golf cart-size batteries (don't recall brand) and it runs overnight without generator. And to me that makes sense because these Trojan batteries store 1.6 kWh of energy each (that may be at 100-hour rate so actual is a little lower). Four batteries is therefore 6.4 kWh. At 50% that's still 3.2 kWh usable energy, which is more than most modern refrigerators should use in an entire day.
Personally, I would want to break down the 28 Amps in more detail because it seems high to me also if it is suppose to be mostly the fridge.
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