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Old 05-10-2019, 12:57 PM   #21
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Brand: Still Looking
State: Colorado
Posts: 20
THOR #15285
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Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
I have a 50amp coach, but have run on a simple 15amp outlet from a home on many occasions... but I also have to be very aware of 'what' is being powered at the same time. I turn off the electric water heater, turn off or down the battery charger, use very few large draw items or appliances at the same time, and generally don't power an electric heater or certainly a roof air conditioner in those situations... it's mostly for 'temporary' power, not the best option when 'living' in an RV long-term.

Having said that, it IS possible to get by on only a household outlet, but pairing back on everything is critical. You are doing what you have to in order to keep the amp usage low, which is perfect, but you just won't have enough amps to ever do a lot at the same time, especially if that same outlet is on a circuit shared by other things in your friend's house.
Well its powered to an empty barn with nothing pluged in sitting on 240 acres of land
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:00 PM   #22
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Brand: Still Looking
State: Colorado
Posts: 20
THOR #15285
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
I have a 50amp coach, but have run on a simple 15amp outlet from a home on many occasions... but I also have to be very aware of 'what' is being powered at the same time. I turn off the electric water heater, turn off or down the battery charger, use very few large draw items or appliances at the same time, and generally don't power an electric heater or certainly a roof air conditioner in those situations... it's mostly for 'temporary' power, not the best option when 'living' in an RV long-term.

Having said that, it IS possible to get by on only a household outlet, but pairing back on everything is critical. You are doing what you have to in order to keep the amp usage low, which is perfect, but you just won't have enough amps to ever do a lot at the same time, especially if that same outlet is on a circuit shared by other things in your friend's house.
We were staying here because he goes all over the state for his job and they live close to this assignment my apartment had a colapsed ceiling stairs (my basement apartment) no working shower and the bedroom wall flooded by the window so we didnt have much choice. We recieved his new assignment and we reserved a spot for the 20th
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:08 PM   #23
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Axis 25.4
State: Arkansas
Posts: 2,146
THOR #12231
Your RV is much older than what we are used to dealing with.

I just read all of this and im confused as well. I dont know everything but many of us are good at figuring out what is wrong (Collectively) to hopefully steer you in the right direction.

Can you take several pictures of your fuse panel for us? Zoom in closely on the main breaker? Take pitures of the wires behind the fuse panel (if you can).

Take a pitures of your plug in (the power cord that you plug into a power source (OUTSIDE) to power the entire RV.

We are use to all RV's being either 30 amp or 50 amp. But its all the same principle.

You might be having more problems than just over powering your system and we want you to be safe.
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2017 Axis / 25.4: Big Foot Levelers, Aims 1200 Watt inverter, Ceramic Window Tint, Full River AGM 6V batteries, Front Hellwig Sway bar / Rear Track Arm, Safe T Plus Steering Stabilizer, PD 4655 converter, Hard Wired Surge Guard, WEboost + WiFi Ranger, LED Headlights/Driving lights, Fresh water surge tank, Black Tank Tornado flush, 4999 zip ties.
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:10 PM   #24
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1 Windjammer
State: Illinois
Posts: 971
THOR #7074
Wow. Are you using an extension cord between outlet and RV?
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:16 PM   #25
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Brand: Still Looking
State: Colorado
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THOR #15285
We've been in it a month and my boyfriend would have to do it he knows where it all is, his Forman also took a good look at it to, so as far as we know we are safe but he thoroughly explained how all the stuff worked and why we need to unplug everything and how to avoid tripping the breaker and all of that but I dont know where all the stuff is
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Old 05-11-2019, 01:18 AM   #26
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Fourwinds 24F
State: North Carolina
Posts: 123
THOR #9511
You should download your manual here - https://www.fleetwoodrv.com/rv-owners-manuals. It is good to be informed.

Your MH has 30 amp service, not 20 amps. Like others have said, if you are plugged into your friends house then your MH has access to 15 amps at best. If there are other items that your friend has plugged into the 15 amp circuit that you are plugged into then you have less than 15 amps available. Iím willing to bet your boyfriend is going to install a 30 amp outlet to your friends existing service so your MH can have enough juice.

Look at your friends power panel and look for a circuit that isnít used by her that much. I would try a garage outlet that has maybe a garage opener on it and not much more. If you are going all the way in the house to plug in your MH then youíre asking for trouble. Donít plug into her kitchen. Look for an outlet on the outside of the house.

I plug into my daughterís garage all the time and it is 15 amp service. I can run the tv, x-box, charge phone, run the fridge and my small coffee pot at the same time. I canít run my space heater and coffee pot at the same time. I canít run the coffee pot and microwave at the same time. Welcome to the RV life style where you need to make choices - if you want to stay warm run the space heater and no toys. If you want to play then add a layer of clothes.
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:47 AM   #27
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Texas
Posts: 15
THOR #12533
best choice solution

If the house has a 30 or 50 amp 240 V outlet somewhere there are adapters to adapt those outlets to 30 amp 120 volt rv female outlets. Look on Home Depot web site.

As long as the power cord is sufficient you can run 30 amp 120V to your rv.
The electric dryer, electric oven or cooktop circuit should be 30 to 50 amp 240 in the house. I often use those outlets to connect a heavy duty 240 v generator power to the house circuits during power outages.

also I have run an instapot on my rv circuits.
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Old 05-19-2019, 06:08 PM   #28
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
Posts: 26
THOR #2830
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Originally Posted by Debspinkpanther View Post
We need help finding certain nessesities to work with a 20AMP. I wanted to replace the crockpot with an instipot does anyone know if it will work? Also need space heaters (Our furnace is a disaster and 3,000 to fix). I cant even use my hair dryer. We are selling or ps4 and or 40" chromecast smart tv because they cant even be used.
On a side note my boyfriend is an electrician we can upgrade to bump up to a 30 or 50 amp but it takes time and money so we are saving up for one project at a time and the conversion for the RV lower on the list
The issue is that RV manufacturers gang to many circuits into one breaker because it is cheaper. Less wire and fewer breakers. My Thor ACE gangs AC, microwave, and some other circuits together. A single 20 amp breaker is not going to handle AC and microwave at once. I plan to rewire my AC unit to it's own 20 amp breaker to avoid this. If the microwave continues to kick the breaker after this separation I will also give it it's own breaker. If you plan to run electric heaters you may choose to run a dedicated circuit for that if you should have the same issue. As another blogger replied, same problems with a 50 amp service. It's not the service it's taxing single breakers by ganging too many circuits to that single breaker.
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