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09-16-2021, 12:39 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
Posts: 24
THOR #22993
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How many Amp Hours should I have ????
I have two 100amp agm batteries in my Thor Sequence. When it is fully charged it is telling me I have about 50 AH. Is that right ???? They are only 4 months old.
I know I can use ONLY half the capacity soooo shouldn't it read 200AH or at least 100AH ?? I have been having trouble with my transfer switch and one tech told me it could mess up your batteries over time. HELP !!
Thanks
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09-16-2021, 01:07 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1
State: Connecticut
Posts: 1,797
THOR #20289
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What is telling you that you have 50 Ahs? A battery monitor that uses a shunt or one that just reads voltage and infers battery state of charge, or ????.
How does the transfer switch enter into this question? A transfer switch usually controls the source of AC power.
David
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09-16-2021, 01:21 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 14,389
THOR #7035
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I'll second David's post both in the questions and statement about the ATS.
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Ted & Melinda
2016 ACE 27.1
2016 Chevy Sonic Toad - Selling
2020 Chevy Colorado Z71 Trail Runner Toad
2024 Chevrolet Trax 2RS - Soon 2B TOAD
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09-16-2021, 01:35 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2020 Magnitude SV34
State: Florida
Posts: 4,164
THOR #12751
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So are these 100Ah AGM's 12V in parallel or 6V in series? If they are 6V, then you will only have 100Ah.
The only way the transfer switch comes into play is if it is not working and the coach is not getting AC power to your Converter to keep the batteries charged.
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09-16-2021, 01:36 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Chateau 24F
State: Ohio
Posts: 4,186
THOR #16721
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Check the voltage reading of each battery using a multimeter... First WITHOUT the coach engine running you should get something like 13.6 volts (if fully charged). WITH the coach engine running you should be getting 14+ volts. That's a starting point.
Like DavidEM asked... WHAT is telling you this amp hour value?? Do you have an inverter?
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09-17-2021, 12:01 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
Posts: 24
THOR #22993
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Thanks guys,
They are in parallel which gives 200amps. The reading is from the cheap BMPro Solar Charge Controller that came with the rig. Right now it says FULL charge but only reads 20AH. It has a 1000 watt converter.
The transfer switch problem has been going on for weeks. In the middle of the night when we are trying to sleep it wakes us with a loud CLICK, CLACK sound then 2 minutes later it repeats the same annoying sound. Then an hour or so later it does the whole routine AGAIN . If it is connected to shore power it does NOT make any noises during the night. It sounds like its coming from under the vehicle just behind the exhaust pipe located in front of the rear driver side wheel. Its really loud outside the rig. Like I said , one tech said it could mess up the batteries over time. Hope this helpsl
Thanks again for the replies and any suggestions would help as I am bringing it in one Monday to have the dealer look at it .
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09-17-2021, 12:20 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
State: Texas
Posts: 5,651
THOR #13058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis1951
Thanks guys,
They are in parallel which gives 200amps. The reading is from the cheap BMPro Solar Charge Controller that came with the rig. Right now it says FULL charge but only reads 20AH. It has a 1000 watt converter.
The transfer switch problem has been going on for weeks. In the middle of the night when we are trying to sleep it wakes us with a loud CLICK, CLACK sound then 2 minutes later it repeats the same annoying sound. Then an hour or so later it does the whole routine AGAIN . If it is connected to shore power it does NOT make any noises during the night. It sounds like its coming from under the vehicle just behind the exhaust pipe located in front of the rear driver side wheel. Its really loud outside the rig. Like I said , one tech said it could mess up the batteries over time. Hope this helpsl
Thanks again for the replies and any suggestions would help as I am bringing it in one Monday to have the dealer look at it .
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You leaving a lot off the table; so questions only to brainstorm better.
1. Can we assume when shore power is connected everything else work, including running at max loads, AC fridge etc.?
2. Why do you think it only occurs at night?
3. Can I assume your generator is off and not trying to run?
4. So this leads us to the only thing functional is what is controlled by DC power? Yes / No?
5. Can you verify that all DC loads are off and see if it occurs? If you get peace at night try turning on your biggest DC draws one night at a time until it reoccurs.
I normally like to guess at this kind of problem, but it only happening at night has me.
__________________
2019 Sunstar 29ve; Toad Lincoln Navigator; RVi Brake 3 & Command Center; Roadmaster Nighthawk Tow bar & Baseplate; Sumo Springs; Safe T Plus; Onan EC-30 AGS; Vmax 250ah AGM; T-Mobile Internet; H/W Heater / Chassis Disconnect Switches; Southwire Surge Guard 44270 & 34951 w/Monitor 40301; Jet Flo Macerator; Alpine SPE500 Speakers; Visio M21D-H8R
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09-17-2021, 12:47 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 14,389
THOR #7035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis1951
Thanks guys,
They are in parallel which gives 200amps. The reading is from the cheap BMPro Solar Charge Controller that came with the rig. Right now it says FULL charge but only reads 20AH. It has a 1000 watt converter.
The transfer switch problem has been going on for weeks. In the middle of the night when we are trying to sleep it wakes us with a loud CLICK, CLACK sound then 2 minutes later it repeats the same annoying sound. Then an hour or so later it does the whole routine AGAIN . If it is connected to shore power it does NOT make any noises during the night. It sounds like its coming from under the vehicle just behind the exhaust pipe located in front of the rear driver side wheel. Its really loud outside the rig. Like I said , one tech said it could mess up the batteries over time. Hope this helpsl
Thanks again for the replies and any suggestions would help as I am bringing it in one Monday to have the dealer look at it .
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That is NOT a transfer switch problem. The Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) allows your generator to power the RV instead of SP.
That sounds like a problem with the relay that ties the chassis and house batteries together for charging, but isolates them when discharging. I don't know how it's done with your MH but many use a BIM.
As far as the solar charge controller knowing the capacity status of your house batteries, it may be able to do this by measuring energy in vs. energy out but only if all current going into or out of the battery goes through the controller. Otherwise you have to tell it the full capacity of your batteries and what type they are and it can guesstimate capacity status by measuring the battery output voltage.
__________________
Ted & Melinda
2016 ACE 27.1
2016 Chevy Sonic Toad - Selling
2020 Chevy Colorado Z71 Trail Runner Toad
2024 Chevrolet Trax 2RS - Soon 2B TOAD
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09-17-2021, 01:32 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Texas
Posts: 6,187
THOR #2121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis1951
Thanks guys,
They are in parallel which gives 200amps. The reading is from the cheap BMPro Solar Charge Controller that came with the rig. Right now it says FULL charge but only reads 20AH. It has a 1000 watt converter.
.....cut......
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Converters are usually rated in Amp capacity, not Watts. This leads me to question whether you are actually referring to the 1,000-Watt “inverter” that Thor specs indicate is standard on your motorhome, not a converter.
Inverters also normally have a transfer switch built-in (or external one) that bypasses the inverter when on shore power. That could explain the lack of noise you don’t hear when on shore power since inverter is probably not pulling from batteries.
So, any chance the tech mentioned which transfer switch was bad? And what do you run off the 1,000-Watt inverter?
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09-17-2021, 02:31 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2011 FW Hurricane 33T
State: England
Posts: 1,296
THOR #16471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis1951
The transfer switch problem has been going on for weeks. In the middle of the night when we are trying to sleep it wakes us with a loud CLICK, CLACK sound then 2 minutes later it repeats the same annoying sound. Then an hour or so later it does the whole routine AGAIN . If it is connected to shore power it does NOT make any noises during the night. It sounds like its coming from under the vehicle just behind the exhaust pipe located in front of the rear driver side wheel. Its really loud outside the rig. Like I said , one tech said it could mess up the batteries over time. Hope this helpsl
Thanks again for the replies and any suggestions would help as I am bringing it in one Monday to have the dealer look at it .
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Well you left us high and dry here...
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...elp-28223.html
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09-17-2021, 08:18 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
Posts: 24
THOR #22993
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Sorry about the confusion...........YES it is a 1000 watt INVERTER (not converter) . I opened the storage under the bed and sat in the hot van today for an hour trying to make the sucker CLICK , CLACK .....but no result. I had her connected to shore , ran the AC, then disconnect shore and waited . No noise. I actually tapped on the plastic ATS box cover with a finger and it sure had the same kind of sound that I recorded on my cellphone. To be continued.
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09-17-2021, 08:24 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
Posts: 24
THOR #22993
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I am beginning to think that 16ACE27 is right. The noise is much louder outside the RV and seems to originate just in front of the rear driver side wheel which is exactly where the second battery is located and connects to all the wires that go into the RV . Is the RELAY located in that area ???
I will mention this when I bring her in on Monday for repair.
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09-17-2021, 08:45 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
State: Texas
Posts: 5,651
THOR #13058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis1951
I am beginning to think that 16ACE27 is right.
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Get use to it, you will enjoy the forum. Unbelievable information afforded to us all. The more I read the more I learn.
__________________
2019 Sunstar 29ve; Toad Lincoln Navigator; RVi Brake 3 & Command Center; Roadmaster Nighthawk Tow bar & Baseplate; Sumo Springs; Safe T Plus; Onan EC-30 AGS; Vmax 250ah AGM; T-Mobile Internet; H/W Heater / Chassis Disconnect Switches; Southwire Surge Guard 44270 & 34951 w/Monitor 40301; Jet Flo Macerator; Alpine SPE500 Speakers; Visio M21D-H8R
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09-18-2021, 12:11 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
Posts: 24
THOR #22993
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dkoldman,
1. Yes
2. I don't. I have heard it while driving the rig.
3. Yes
4. No . Everything is functional when needed. Its just the noise problem.
5. Can't do that. Fridge is running all the time. We only occasionally use the RV. The noise seems to happen only when we boondock with NO air conditioning.
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09-20-2021, 11:52 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Florida
Posts: 24
THOR #22993
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16ACE27,
You win the prize. Took the rig to GeneralRV today. They said the problem is a failing BIM. They ordered a BIM160. I was reading the comments you guys were having on another thread about wiring problems. I hope these guys wire it properly if and when the part shows up.
Question: Can I still camp connected to shore or generator power ???
Thanks to All for your help.
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