Class C sound insulation and carpet project

[Ifish]

Nice looking job! It has to help on noise and heat both.
There will always be noise, just get it to a tolerable level.

[puppygeo]

WOW! That looks great! I've been considering doing this to my E350 also. The stock rubber flooring looks like crap. Thanks for the heads up and please give us an update on the sound deadening result.

Did you end up going with the OEM Cutpile or their Essex carpet material?

[jabrabu]

Drove the RV to a campground about 3 hours away last night. The cab is significantly quieter. My wife also noticed. I don’t have to turn the stereo up so loud to hear it. When it downshifts and revs up going up hills it is still louder, but doesn’t roar like it used to.
I also got some Weathertech floor mats, which add another layer where the exhaust passes under the floor.

[makitso]

This going to sound strange but I used Noico 80 mil 36 Sound deadening mat to reduce the noise in my Chrysler PT cruiser. Don't forget the front doors and side panels ahead of the doors.

[plastrd]

It looks like they have a couple add-on options, did you choose any of them?
Essex vs standard cutpile?
Did you add the optional mass backing? (45mil EVA foam pad from the description)

[jabrabu]

Originally Posted by plastrd

It looks like they have a couple add-on options, did you choose any of them?
Essex vs standard cutpile?
Did you add the optional mass backing? (45mil EVA foam pad from the description)

Yes, I got the Essex and I also got the mass backing. I figured the heavy backing would provide even more sound dampening, which was my main goal.


The tough part was picking a color. I requested samples of the cream, beige, and caramel. Honestly, I think any of them would have looked good. I chose the beige color.

[plastrd]

I ordered the exact same carpet with backing and did the install today. I already had a box of Noico mat and had been putting off installing it since it required removing the seats so this was a good chance to get the whole thing done. Took me about 4 hours total and my body hates me but the result looks much nicer than the black vinyl.

The carpet mentions "some trimming may be required" and that's the understatement of the year. It is cut in approximately the U shape of the original and has some molded in lumps where the wheel wells are but that's about it for "custom fit". It looks like it was trimmed at the factory with a dull knife and the rear sewn hem isn't completely straight.
The stock vinyl weighs in at 7lbs and this new one is definitely weightier at 20lbs. Hopefully this translates to additional sound deadening.

I laid the old vinyl on top of the new carpet and cut out the holes for seat bolts and the various tabs that the trim pieces hold on through. I didn't bother trimming the edges at this point because I didn't want to cut off too much. I'm not sure if that was a good idea or not since trying to trim it during install was hell on my muscles.

Once I got it out to the coach I laid it down on the seat studs and started from the rear driver side and worked around to the front and across. I let the rear hemmed edge curve up the little step and the trim piece along the top edge helps to pinch it in place. I like that look much better than that terribly cut piece of carpet Thor installed and was already laying loose since the staples they used fell out.
Trimming the outline was very time consuming and hard on the arms trying to use a razor to slice through that backing rubber. I eventually got it completely trimmed and wedged in behind the pedals. The molded shape of the wheel wells wasn't quite accurate but maybe once the weather warms up the rubber will relax a bit and conform better. It isn't too bad and doesn't get in the way of the pedals but you can feel a couple little lumps where the carpet is propped up by the rubber but there's a small gap to the actual floor pan. The edges of the carpet are all captured by the trim and doghouse and with the rubber backing it isn't going anywhere.

One thing I wish I had done is put down a couple strips of double sided carpet tape under the center section between the seats. The rubber backing was a little wavy there's a couple gaps under it that you can feel when walking on it, another one I hope will take care of itself with heat.

Attached are a bunch of pictures of the install. The one showing the doghouse removed isn't completely trimmed, I had to remove more material so the doghouse cover would properly seal against the metal. I have a discountvantruck swivel seat for the passenger side so that's why the trimming is odd there to accommodate the giant steel plate that bolts to the floor.

I haven't been out on the road yet but I think this project was worth it just for the look of carpet over the cheap black vinyl.

Tools required:
18mm deep socket for rear seat bolt nuts
Torx T55 for the front seat bolts (actually a Torx Plus TP55 but a regular T55 bit works fine)
Sharp razor and several replacement blades
Patience, lots of it

Cost:
$284 shipped for the carpet
$66 for 36sqft of Noico, I still have a lot left so *maybe* you could get away with the 18sqft box but I haven't done the doors yet

[jabrabu]

plastrd, that looks good.


I managed to insert the hemmed edge of the carpet under the step, like the original vinyl did. With the extra thickness of the carpet it was tough, but I was able to get it under there. To cut the rough shape and the seat attachment holes, I lined up the hemmed edge with the rear edge of the vinyl.


Mine also doesn't lie perfectly flat between the seats. I think that is partly because I reinstalled the insulation that was under the vinyl mat, and it was a little irregular. It looks fine, though, and will probably settle in over time and when temperatures warm up.


One problem I'm having is getting the door sill trim pieces to fit back in properly. The extra thickness of the carpet is keeping them from going all the way down into the door sill step. Did you have any problems with reinstalling these pieces?

[plastrd]

My door sill trim pieces had most of the tabs already broken off before I started so I didn't have to try and force them down. The rear-most tab on each one was still present and clicked in place by putting my full weight on it, it didn't pop back out when I got up. The front edge of each one is held down under the kick panel trim pieces so at least they're not completely loose.
The step area has some flex down at the bottom but the only time I go out through the front door is when I'm pumping gas. The rest of the time that whole area is blocked by the door pockets so I'm planning to just ignore it for now.

I think you'd have to take an electric hair trimmer and give the carpet a buzz cut down to the backing if you wanted all the tabs to click in and stay there.

[jabrabu]

Thanks for the ideas. I will try putting the door sill trim pieces under the side trim pieces and see if that helps. I was also wondering if putting a heavy weight on the step area and then using a heat gun to soften the plastic might help.

[AZ_Potters]

This is great, will be doing same.
What Mil of Noico did you use?