Filling a LP tank from another bottle

gentilebrian · 12-13-2016, 03:33 PM

So the RV is snowed in. This coming weekend its going to get down to -17 and I want to run the heat. I am running the heat now set at 50 but I'm afraid I will run out of gas by this weekend and it wouldn't be easy to move the RV out of the snow.

Online I see adapters you can put inline to hook up a tank but I don't want to hook up another tank but rather just fill the RV tank with mine. Do they sell a hose that goes from the RV fill to a portable tank or maybe I have to make my own. If I have to make my own what is the fitting type on the RV fill called?

Stan fowler · 12-13-2016, 07:10 PM

Sure it is possible - have seen a lot of semi-permanent units running off of an external large LP tank - but may be more work than you want to do. Call an LP supplier - they can probably tell you how to plumb an external tank. I know - not the same as filling from an external tank.....

Have you considered a couple of electric space heaters ...

Chance · 12-13-2016, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gentilebrian

....cut....

Online I see adapters you can put inline to hook up a tank but I don't want to hook up another tank but rather just fill the RV tank with mine. Do they sell a hose that goes from the RV fill to a portable tank or maybe I have to make my own. If I have to make my own what is the fitting type on the RV fill called?

I believe that filling a permanent RV tank from another tank will require a pump. A simple hose can connect two tanks to be used in parallel, but to fill one tank from another requires transferring the liquid, not the gas.

Not sure if it's allowed everywhere because of safety concerns, but if you can't move the RV to a refilling station, have you though of calling a company that may refill on site?

Travelin' Texans · 12-13-2016, 08:29 PM

The simple answer is NO about filling from another bottle & don't waste your money on that adapter even if just trying to fill the 1lb disposable bottles. YES you can buy the Exend-a-Stay fitting & plumb in a place to add a portable bottle & by adding valve you could leave it all plumbed for future use. Those bottles/tanks are filled by pumping liquid propane at 250+/-psi, so unless you know what you're doing it could be hazardous to your health & anyone close by. Your local l.p. supplier should have the parts & you might see if their mobil guy would come top off your tank, might cost more per gallon, but a lot less work.

SuperD · 12-14-2016, 12:25 AM

You can buy all the parts you need at Camping World or whoever sells Extend a Stay products. Different size tanks can be purchased from Lowes or similar places. When an LP tank is filled it is the liquid that is transferred and it requires a pump. I added the Extend a Stay to ou previous coach without any problems and it worked Great. If you do the work yourself be SURE you check everything for leaks. Also make sure you use LP compatible tape or pipe dope.

Techn0 · 12-14-2016, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperD

You can buy all the parts you need at Camping World or whoever sells Extend a Stay products. Different size tanks can be purchased from Lowes or similar places. When an LP tank is filled it is the liquid that is transferred and it requires a pump. I added the Extend a Stay to ou previous coach without any problems and it worked Great. If you do the work yourself be SURE you check everything for leaks. Also make sure you use LP compatible tape or pipe dope.

You shouldn't use tape on your flare fittings. Also after adding the tee, your regulator may stick out a bit. Find some sheet metal or wood to extend under it to protect it from road debris. There is a great YouTube video for adding the Camcorder stay a while tee.

gmc · 12-14-2016, 01:34 AM

As several have said - no way to easily transfer LP gas from one tank to another...
I wouldn't want to think about the amount of propane a typical (mostly uninsulated - compared to a house) RV would consume to maintain even 50 degrees in -17 weather...

If I am reading your post correctly - you aren't using the RV - it is being stored. Did you winterize it? It should do fine if properly winterized without heat. (don't forget about other can/bottle contents you might have - not just the plumbing system...)

I used a mobile provider to fill up at campground last winter... Had the extend a stay - but didn't have the proper hose or a spare tank with me... After paying that bill - I quickly bought the right hose - and now carry a spare tank on extended trips.... (Extend a stay has 2 taps - I had previously used the one to feed an external grill... didn't have the other hose with fittings to connect an external tank.)

SuperD · 12-14-2016, 01:38 AM

Techno, you are absolutely correct abou flare fittings but some kits and fittings are standard pipe thread. All of the parts I used on our Tuscany were pipe thread, no flare fittings at all.

Techn0 · 12-14-2016, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperD

Techno, you are absolutely correct abou flare fittings but some kits and fittings are standard pipe thread. All of the parts I used on our Tuscany were pipe thread, no flare fittings at all.

Here is the one I used. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59123-P...rv+propane+tee

After I installed it, I tested several times for leaks. No leaks. My question is, has people used yellow tape with PTFE on this one minus the one 1/4" flare fitting of course. The instructions says tape not required.... but what is the safest method? TIA

gentilebrian · 12-14-2016, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmc

If I am reading your post correctly - you aren't using the RV - it is being stored. Did you winterize it? It should do fine if properly winterized without heat. (don't forget about other can/bottle contents you might have - not just the plumbing system...)

Yes I did winterize it. The reason I am wanting to keep it heated is extreme cold can be very rough on cheap meterials like plastics, glues. I'm just trying to keep it warmer then freezing to help save what I can. For a few dollars in LP I might beable to save a hassle down the road. In boats I have seen zip ties break. LCD screens crack. I know the displays on my boat are only rated for a storage temperature of -4.

Sunday temps are suppose to get down to -20. I'm gonna look and see if they sell a thermostat that goes down lower then 50. I think keeping at 35 would be ideal.

Thanks all for your responses. I was thinking I could put a hose from the fill on the RV LP tank to a portable bottle. Turn the bottle upside down and open the valve and the liquid would flow into the RV tank. I know if its in a standing position only the gas will flow until pressure is equalized.

JamieGeek · 12-14-2016, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gentilebrian

Yes I did winterize it. The reason I am wanting to keep it heated is extreme cold can be very rough on cheap meterials like plastics, glues. I'm just trying to keep it warmer then freezing to help save what I can. For a few dollars in LP I might beable to save a hassle down the road. In boats I have seen zip ties break. LCD screens crack. I know the displays on my boat are only rated for a storage temperature of -4.

Sunday temps are suppose to get down to -20. I'm gonna look and see if they sell a thermostat that goes down lower then 50. I think keeping at 35 would be ideal.

Seems to me your doing "much ado about nothing": Our Axis is our 4th camper and all of successfully survived Michigan winters without keeping them heated (UV exposure seems to be far worse on the units than cold temps).

All of the components should be rated at "automotive specs" which goes from -40C to 125C.

Travelin' Texans · 12-14-2016, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gentilebrian

Yes I did winterize it. The reason I am wanting to keep it heated is extreme cold can be very rough on cheap meterials like plastics, glues. I'm just trying to keep it warmer then freezing to help save what I can. For a few dollars in LP I might beable to save a hassle down the road. In boats I have seen zip ties break. LCD screens crack. I know the displays on my boat are only rated for a storage temperature of -4.

Sunday temps are suppose to get down to -20. I'm gonna look and see if they sell a thermostat that goes down lower then 50. I think keeping at 35 would be ideal.

Thanks all for your responses. I was thinking I could put a hose from the fill on the RV LP tank to a portable bottle. Turn the bottle upside down and open the valve and the liquid would flow into the RV tank. I know if its in a standing position only the gas will flow until pressure is equalized.

That's why those refill adapters don't work, When you turn the bottle over the safety device inside shuts off the flow. If you don't find a mobile supplier & have to plumb it talk to the supplier bout renting a 100# bottle, I did that a few winters ago & save a lot of trips to refill 30#ers.

gentilebrian · 12-14-2016, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

Seems to me your doing "much ado about nothing": Our Axis is our 4th camper and all of successfully survived Michigan winters without keeping them heated (UV exposure seems to be far worse on the units than cold temps).

All of the components should be rated at "automotive specs" which goes from -40C to 125C.

I would think most of the parts in the RV are not built to automotive specs. Most TV's are only rated for a storage temperature of 0F maybe -5f. Not sure about the cheap TV's I have because there is no listed specs but at -20 there is a very good possibility of the liquid Crystal freezing and destroying the TV.

JamieGeek · 12-14-2016, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gentilebrian

Not sure about the cheap TV's I have because there is no listed specs but at -20 there is a very good possibility of the liquid Crystal freezing and destroying the TV.

We all have those cheap TVs. So far ours haven't cracked or frozen at all.

SuperD · 12-14-2016, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techn0

Here is the one I used. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59123-P...rv+propane+tee

After I installed it, I tested several times for leaks. No leaks. My question is, has people used yellow tape with PTFE on this one minus the one 1/4" flare fitting of course. The instructions says tape not required.... but what is the safest method? TIA

Personally I prefer gas rated pipe dope over tape. As long as you checked and don't have any leaks you should be fine.

Travelin' Texans · 12-15-2016, 01:58 AM

There is also gas rated tape, it's yellow.

Techn0 · 12-16-2016, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperD

Personally I prefer gas rated pipe dope over tape. As long as you checked and don't have any leaks you should be fine.

While I didn't have any leaks, my OCD got the best of me. I went back and added pipe dope and rechecked everything. Probably for the best since this is moving down the road. ;-)

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