advice please, no leveling system installed

[sedcom]

We have a 24.1 and levelling blocks work fine. There are apps out there like 'Caravan Level' that once configured work pretty well in telling you what you need under each tire front and back and side to side. We have put on 37K miles and once you are used to using them it is pretty quick and easy. Good luck.

[jr_nicholson]

My 2 cents is, stick with Big Foot leveling equipment and have them install snap pads on the jack pads. No blocks to carry, no headaches.

[mwhite48]

I use camco leveling blocks. I would strongly suggest looking at the Levelmate Pro. Once it is set up, it will tell you exactly how many blocks to put under each wheel. It saves a lot of trial and error.

[petef]

Mine came with auto level jacks and I would not buy a coach without them. When down the movement from walking around is gone, and the inside is level. I had to replace all of them after 7 years.. seals died. I may have contributed, I used to just let them fully extend on sloped sites,, sometimes had the rear off the ground, etc... now I put 2x6 down, drive on it to level a little,, then finish level with jacks so not to strain them when on sloped grounds more then 2 degrees. I boondock often, so I run into unlevel grounds, but have been at campsite with 5 degree slopes..

[alajeu]

I have a Vegas 25.5 and I seldom have to use levelers of any kind. As long as the sink drains and the bathroom door stays where I put it, we are good to go. Most RV sites are constructed close to level .
Otherwise, I carry a 3 ft. carpenter's level and place it almost anywhere in the coach. Usually get by with one or two Legos stacked on one corner and everything is copecetic.

[Ron]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

What he said...
But the leveling systems are just so much easier!
(I've got the Equalizer system)

On our first trip in our Motorhome many years ago, it was raining and I was dreading the thought of leveling the rig in the rain, so I got on the phone and ordered an Equalizer system. I had been researching it for a while and decided it was worth it to not have to level in the rain.

The only part of the install that I didn't want to do was welding the jack brackets to the frame especially the left rear one that is right next to the fuel tank. I talked to a local weld shop and he advised me to go to Harbor Freight and buy a $28 hand grinder and 4 large clamps. I used the grinder to chamfer to brackets for the welding bead and to clean off the frame where they would be welded on. I drove to the welding shop, crawled under the rig and clamped the brackets in place. After the brackets where welded on, the rest of the install was easy, just bolt the jacks to the brackets and run the lines to the pump/power unit. Because I installed it, I feel confident that I understand the system and could repair it if need be.

We have been using the equalizer system for 7 years now and it works great every time.

PS. The shelf that the control panel is mounted in is the last 6" of a coffee table my wife bought off Craig's List.

[sip]

Before installing the Big Foots I used to level with pads and/or scissor jacks. For minor leveling, a few pads would do .. but for bigger jobs, I'd put scissor jacks over the leveling pads and level with the frame. I have an electric impact that makes the scissors a bit easier to set up but I'd still finish them up with good old elbow grease lol. I still carry a couple of the scissor jacks as backup .. since I only use them to level or stabilize, the weight rating is not as big an issue.

[bobhhoy]

I am not a complete novice; I have driven my motorhome about 75,000 miles over the last ten years, with one big trip to Alaska and a lot of shorter ones. I do not have an automatic leveling system on my Thor Compass 23TR, or any kind of leveling system. About 50 percent of the time, I arrive at a campground to find that the place I want to park is not level. Sometimes, it is so minor, that I don't bother to fix the situation. Sometimes, a couple of leveling blocks under one or more of the tires does the trick, and the floor is reasonably level inside, the bed is good enough to sleep without rolling to one side, etc. Only occasionally, the ground is really unlevel, and all of my leveling blocks are not enough. I would say that this is less than 5% of the time. So, for me, it would not be worth the cost to have an automatic leveling system installed. I suggest that you go without for a season and revisit the subject next November. Good luck.

[twovillagers]

Originally Posted by BirdyB

Hi folks, our vegas 25.3 2018 did not come with a leveling system. Before investing in Big Foot, can someone please advise what to use to level with leveling blocks?

Another vote for 2x6 or 2x8.
I find most sites are close to level, but normally need to raise front an inch or two due to coach design. I think I have every brand of block leveler and find most eventually get deformed or crushed.
I carry two sets of 2x6 with two pieces of different lengths fastened together. That enables me to drive on first layer for a 1 1/2 inch rise or further on for 3" rise. I still carry some plastic blocks in case I need mor leveling on other wheels.
Can sometimes be a bit frustrating, but far cheaper than a power leveling system!

[vegas25.5]

We have found very little need for any sort of leveling as most campsites are fairly level. If we are not in a traditional campsite then typically we have options on where to setup and will offer us the most level area. We do however carry two of these ramps, just in case.


https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Tri-Lev...s%2C175&sr=8-5

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by vegas25.5

We have found very little need for any sort of leveling as most campsites are fairly level. If we are not in a traditional campsite then typically we have options on where to setup and will offer us the most level area. We do however carry two of these ramps, just in case.


https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Tri-Lev...s%2C175&sr=8-5

The load capacity of 3,500 lbs of these Camco ramps would work with Class Bs, most Class Cs but not Class C+ or Class As. Too much weight unless you use two per wheel on dual wheel coaches.

Also the ground condition makes a big difference as to how they hold up. Uneven, rocky ground can twist and bend those ramps and split the plastic.

Like I said earlier in this thread, this is what I have used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has a 10,000 lb per ramp capacity, about triple the Camco's and the construction is very well done with tight rib spacing. The only problem with mine is the high end started to distort because I backed up too far. I filled the end with concrete and it is all good.

I have always been able to level within 1 degree with two of these.

David