[QUOTE=inlyzbldcj;298767] then flushed the black tank and hose out with the other hose hooked up to the city water system which our coach was hooked up to all weekend.
You shouldn't be using the city water hose to flush your black tank.
I have a dedicated hose for my flush system but I don’t really know why. There are two one way valves and a vacuum breaker in the dedicated line so the chances of any back flow are zero and if there was any I’d. notice when I took the cap off the inlet connection.
Well unfortunately the gauges on many (most) RVs are wildly inaccurate. You might get them to work better by half filling your tanks with soapy water and driving around for a while in hopes of cleaning the sensors but it’s iffy and temporary at best. Most of us don’t really use the gauges and just sort of rely on experience to know when to dump. It’s pretty crazy but more or less true.
Sane here! I can clean the tanks and sensors are fine for a cycle or two. Generally, the black tank is the one that is off. With just two of us, I plan on 3-4 days between dumps.
If you are worried about accurate tank levels, then I suggest you invert in the "Seelevel Tank Monitors".
Yup,, One of the best solutions I've found..
BTW.. I used the supplied control panel and mounted it by the entry door.. I really like that it reads out in % of tank level.(also used the existing wiring to the dash/door area)
__________________
current coach
An SOB Shack called Foretravel...This will Do.
former coach
Thor Infinity
Don't worry about gauge readings, use your best judgment also, and if the 'toilet' tank is getting full, you will know it gauges or not. Into my fourth RV and none of the tank readings have been accurate enough for me to rely only on them. Individual and family diets, along with how each owner uses the system will also affect readings. After all, use your best judgment, it 'ain't the same as a home pit stop.
If you are worried about accurate tank levels, then I suggest you invert in the "Seelevel Tank Monitors".
I agree that the SeeLevel system is much better. They can be a pain if not installed exactly as directed AND I've had several sensors that were bad. They are great at replacing any sensor that acts up and they told me to contact them in July when they will come out with a new lenght sensor that will better fit my particular tank so it will be more accurate. Bottom line, you need to be able to "Read between the Lines" with any sensor and use it as a guess, not gospel!! Many good tank cleaners out there but I quit using Dawn with a half tank of water cause I was told the bubbles and film can work against your sensor probes???
I agree that the SeeLevel system is much better. They can be a pain if not installed exactly as directed AND I've had several sensors that were bad. They are great at replacing any sensor that acts up and they told me to contact them in July when they will come out with a new lenght sensor that will better fit my particular tank so it will be more accurate. Bottom line, you need to be able to "Read between the Lines" with any sensor and use it as a guess, not gospel!! Many good tank cleaners out there but I quit using Dawn with a half tank of water cause I was told the bubbles and film can work against your sensor probes???
I use dishwasher detergent “pods”. Usually the cheapest store brand. Just toss one in with a few gallons of water after dumping. They are non foaming so bubbles wouldn’t be a problem and clean as you drive. They seem to work well for me.
I use dishwasher detergent “pods”. Usually the cheapest store brand. Just toss one in with a few gallons of water after dumping. They are non foaming so bubbles wouldn’t be a problem and clean as you drive. They seem to work well for me.
a "Note" DO NOT use the "Pods" if you have a toilet pumping system that uses "Duck Bill valves and a Vacuum Bellows....
__________________
current coach
An SOB Shack called Foretravel...This will Do.
former coach
Thor Infinity
Adding Dish soap and ice cubes sometimes will clean the guck off the sensors and give you a more accurate reading. The ice cubes will melt by and by, of course….
If your water pump was turned on, it will use the water from the tank even if you are hooked up to City water. Don’t turn on the pump if you want to use City water. We learned that the hard way 😉
Quote:
Originally Posted by inlyzbldcj
Oh also....I filled up the fresh water tank before leaving and it shows empty even though we were hooked up to city water at the park and it was turned on....why would the fresh water tank empty if we were using city water?
If your water pump was turned on, it will use the water from the tank even if you are hooked up to City water. Don’t turn on the pump if you want to use City water. We learned that the hard way ��
What you're describing isn't normal.
I think that campsite just had poor water pressure.
Ever wonder how your water pump knows when to shut itself off?
My coach uses the Shurflo pump by Pentair, pictured below.
It has a pressure switch built-in on the output side. If the pressure switch detects pressure over 55 PSI, either from City Water or from itself, it disconnects power to the pump motor. It that condition, it really makes no difference whether your "water pump" panel switch is on or off -- the pump can't operate.
We leave our water pump switch ON at all times. If the water pressure falls below 55 PSI, the pump will kick in automatically, just as it was designed to do. But, then we have to remember to check the fresh water tank level occasionally.
When you get to your next campsite, and the water pressure is good, I'm betting that the water pump on/off panel switch will have no effect.
Another possibility is that your pressure switch needs more than 55 psi to activate. You can test the campsite water pressure with a screw-on gauge that costs $10 at Lowes. Low water pressure is a nuisance but high water pressure can damage your plumbing and cause leaks.
By the way, anytime you hear the pump power on briefly, that indicates that water pressure in the pipes somehow dropped below 55 psi. If nobody was using water at the time, you have a leak or a drip somewhere, in either the hot or cold water piping.
In our Palazzo if the pump is on it will pump from the fresh water tank, even if you are connected to City water. Once the tank is empty the pump will continue to run nonstop. When connected to City water, the pump is supposed to be turned off, per Thor. I’m sure your pentaire pump is better than the factory installed pump in our coach. It’s on my list of things to upgrade!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiley1
What you're describing isn't normal.
I think your campsite just had poor water pressure.
Ever wonder how your water pump knows when to shut itself off?
My coach uses the Shurflo pump by Pentair, pictured below.
It has a pressure switch built-in on the output side. If the pressure switch detects pressure over 55 PSI, either from City Water or from itself, it disconnects power to the pump motor. It that condition, it really makes no difference whether your "water pump" panel switch is on or off -- the pump can't operate.
We leave our water pump switch ON at all times. If the water pressure falls below 55 PSI, the pump will kick in automatically, just as it was designed to do. But, we have to remember to check the fresh water tank level occasionally.
When you get to your next campsite, and the water pressure is good, I'm betting that the water pump switch will have no effect.
By the way, anytime you hear the pump power on briefly, that indicates that somehow the pressure dropped below 55 psi. If nobody was using water at the time, you have a leak somewhere, in either the hot or cold water piping.
In our Palazzo if the pump is on it will pump from the fresh water tank, even if you are connected to City water. Once the tank is empty the pump will continue to run nonstop. When connected to City water, the pump is supposed to be turned off, per Thor. I’m sure your pentaire pump is better than the factory installed pump in our coach. It’s on my list of things to upgrade!
Your pump might be bad.
My little 2017 Freedom Elite 23H came from Thor with this pump. You can get a replacement on Amazon for $59.
We found plastic drill shavings in the filter/strainer basket. Some genius at Thor forgot to rinse/flush the tank before they delivered the coach. Maybe you have something like that clogging the pressure switch. They tell me it is really easy to disassemble, clean, and reassemble.
Why? And what is a toilet pumping system with a duck bill valve and a vacuum bellows?
Our coach has a Magnum-Opus vacuum toilet system..
This system is also used in marine applications.
The toilet is vacuum flushed and then pumps the sewage up and into a remote black tank for storage..(not like your tanks which are directly under the toilet.)
This is the vacuum pump.. and duck bills [for controlling a one way flow thru the bellows.]
__________________
current coach
An SOB Shack called Foretravel...This will Do.
former coach
Thor Infinity
Who designed that Beast: NASA?
That thing would be awesome in a zero gravity situation!
I "Think" it was a female who designed it..Male with ample lard counter weights sitting down and "sealing the Throne"..then thinking about the vacuum and the half ball snapping shut when you flush........while everything is hanging down...OH HELL NO!
__________________
current coach
An SOB Shack called Foretravel...This will Do.
former coach
Thor Infinity
Linear Mode
