We have a 2012 Thor ACE. To minimize heat gain, we use Prodex aluminized foam insulation (
Reflective insulation for metal buildings, pole barns and houses, though I'm sure Home Depot, etc. has something similar) cut to fit in all the windows and ceiling skylights. It's cheap and very effective. A piece under your mattress will make your bed warmer too. But the front window is large, curved and hard to get to, so we opted for an exterior shade. The interior ones provided by Thor are for a visual barrier, not insulation (and don't work all that well anyway, so we never put them down).
We looked at Magna Shade, and while they're very nice, at about $500 (as I recall) they were too expensive. Fortunately, we have an alternative which works nicely.
We live in a passive solar house we built about 40 years ago. To avoid heat gain in the summer for the house (and our greenhouse), we use 90% shade cloth. Others probably make these as well, but we've used the Growers Supply division of FarmTek for years and the quality is high (
FarmTek - Hydroponic Fodder Systems, Farming & Growing Supplies, Hoop Barns, Poultry & Livestock Equipment, High Tunnels, Greenhouses & More).
Their 90% shade cloth is a dark green, though it comes in other grades as well. On the house we put them up on an overhang in the spring and take them off in the fall, allowing full sunlight in the winter. We get about 10 seasons out of the shades before they begin to unravel on account of solar degradation.
The shade for the front of our Thor cost about $70 (including brass grommets and hemming, which I recommend) and I asked for the extra material (at no additional cost), since the 42" x 100" shade is taken out of a larger piece. If doing it again, I think I'd add another 2" to each side, making the shade 104" wide. The window is 40", and I had already added 2" more for the height. Increasing the width would make it easier to install without worrying about perfect centering.
If, over time, the elastic straps don't work as well as they seem to now, I can glue neodymium magnets (
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/) into pockets which I can sew onto the shade using some of the extra cloth. This, plus some magnets for the inside of the glass would give me a poor man's version of the Magna Shade.
But the four elastic straps ($2.75 ea at Home Depot) seem to work well and should last at least 2 or 3 seasons. So far, the plastic hooks on the straps haven't scratched the finish. I think these are better than metal hooks.
In the photo, you'll also notice I use a couple of blocks of dense packing foam to both hold down the bottom of the shade as well as lift the wiper blades off the window so the blades, which are not cheap, might last a little longer.
The disadvantage to this system is the requirement for a small step stool (short ladder) to reach a good "hook point" near the top edge of the RV. The awning bracket and slide make handy hook anchors, as do the rims of the front wheels. Other RV brands / models will likely have different attachment points. If you are prone to dizziness or don't like ladders, this is probably not a good technique for you.
Another consideration is that the cloth is not entirely opaque. It allows you to just barely see out during the day, allows very filtered light in and no one can see in, which is nice, but also allows for the "fishbowl" effect at night if you have interior lights on, so you'll want interior drapes or something similar for privacy.
I suddenly feel as if I'm ALMOST willing to accept our miserable Winter weather... 
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