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Old 03-19-2024, 08:37 PM   #1
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THOR #11781
Water heater drain plug

Has anyone found an easy way to remove the plug?

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Old 03-19-2024, 10:42 PM   #2
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I used a wrench (about 1"). Taking the exhaust baffle off first made it a lot easier.
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Old 03-19-2024, 10:51 PM   #3
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Mine takes a 15/16ths combo wrench about a foot long. You can then use either end to remove the pug but can only get a quarter turn at a time at the most.
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Old 03-19-2024, 10:55 PM   #4
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THOR #1469
1/2 drive deep well socket and ratchet. Has worked on all three of my motorhomes.
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Old 03-20-2024, 01:40 AM   #5
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I could not get mine to budge, so I took a six point socket and electric impact wrench to it. It sheared the head off the plug (plastic). But, I was able to us a hacksaw blade and a pick with what was left and gradually dig it out.
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Old 03-20-2024, 02:57 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by CactusJuice View Post
I could not get mine to budge, so I took a six point socket and electric impact wrench to it. It sheared the head off the plug (plastic). But, I was able to us a hacksaw blade and a pick with what was left and gradually dig it out.
Wow that sux!
We remove ours with a channel locks. When replacing the plug wrap the threads with 2-3 wraps of Teflon tape. Prevents leaks and seizing.
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Old 03-20-2024, 03:46 AM   #7
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Assuming you get it out based on the previous suggestions, you might want to consider replacing it with a drain petcock. On a previous RV with the water heater tank, it made it easy to twist open.
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Old 03-20-2024, 03:56 AM   #8
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A socket is out of the question. The gas line is in the way. Been using channel locks or a box end wrench. Just getting tired of the 1/16" turn about 40 times to get the plug out. You'd think the manufacturers would come up with a better design.
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Old 03-20-2024, 01:03 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Lt Keefer View Post
A socket is out of the question. The gas line is in the way. Been using channel locks or a box end wrench. Just getting tired of the 1/16" turn about 40 times to get the plug out. You'd think the manufacturers would come up with a better design.
Have you tried a wrench like this

https://unitedrvparts.com/products/c...HipU3bNdl76Bh8
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Old 03-20-2024, 03:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Lt Keefer View Post
A socket is out of the question. The gas line is in the way. Been using channel locks or a box end wrench. Just getting tired of the 1/16" turn about 40 times to get the plug out. You'd think the manufacturers would come up with a better design.
If it is plastic and it will turn:

Maybe drill a small hole in it, then use a flat screwdriver or square head bit shoved in the hole to back it out. EZ Out might work if its brass. Replace it with one with a petcock.
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Old 03-20-2024, 03:22 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Lt Keefer View Post
A socket is out of the question. The gas line is in the way. Been using channel locks or a box end wrench. Just getting tired of the 1/16" turn about 40 times to get the plug out. You'd think the manufacturers would come up with a better design.
Aye. I have the same water heater. A socket, unless very shallow and combined with an extension, is not possible on this model of WH.


Whilst poking around, it seems Camco makes a drain valve replacement with a petcock as CJ suggested. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Inch-11...g=amzfinder-20


And of course, the knock-off: https://www.amazon.com/RVGUARD-Repla...RDV-1%2F2&th=1
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Old 03-20-2024, 03:41 PM   #12
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Mine is 15/16" plastic plug. My method is to GENTLY put a little upward pressure with a couple fingers (as shown in pic) then slip a deep well socket onto the plug head. Then again apply gentle upward pressure to propane line and pop the ratchet onto the socket.

The key is CAREFULLY and GENTLY. The entire propane supply flexes just enough to get things in there... going on four years with this method and no leaks.

As stated... a few wraps of Teflon plumbers tape keeps it from seizing.
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Old 03-20-2024, 04:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt Keefer View Post
A socket is out of the question. The gas line is in the way. Been using channel locks or a box end wrench. Just getting tired of the 1/16" turn about 40 times to get the plug out. You'd think the manufacturers would come up with a better design.
What water heater do you have?
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Old 03-20-2024, 04:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt Keefer View Post
A socket is out of the question. The gas line is in the way. Been using channel locks or a box end wrench. Just getting tired of the 1/16" turn about 40 times to get the plug out. You'd think the manufacturers would come up with a better design.
Have the same one. It is a PIA no doubt. But as we only pull the plug a few times a year we deal with it.

Will have to look into that angled wrench that EA linked.
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Old 03-20-2024, 05:53 PM   #15
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I was too "chicken" to try an lever the gas line aside, didn't want to break my new toy.


I'm going to order one of those drain valves and install it the next time I drain the WH. Looks like it will be a slower drain but, what the heck, I'm retired and don't have to go to work on Monday.
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Old 03-27-2024, 06:42 PM   #16
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Those plastic plugs are useless. Get a brass plug with a square head that takes a 9/16 wrench. The wrench is smaller and easier to manipulate behind all the obstructions.
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Old 03-27-2024, 06:59 PM   #17
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Camco 11633 works great
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Old 03-27-2024, 07:00 PM   #18
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Those plastic plugs are useless. Get a brass plug with a square head that takes a 9/16 wrench. The wrench is smaller and easier to manipulate behind all the obstructions.
I wouldn't arbitrability start mixing metals by putting a brass plug in a steel heater shell. I am no chemist, but I do know dissimilar metals may cause an adverse chemical reaction. Likewise, a brass plug may have a negative reaction with minerals in the water. The mfgrs put a plastic plug in the heater for a reason. Some heaters may even be equipped with a sacrificial anode rod.
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Old 03-27-2024, 07:06 PM   #19
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Those plastic plugs are useless. Get a brass plug with a square head that takes a 9/16 wrench. The wrench is smaller and easier to manipulate behind all the obstructions.
Yeah, let's introduce galvanic corrosion into the mix. There's a reason those plugs are non-metallic.
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Old 03-27-2024, 07:09 PM   #20
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I wouldn't arbitrability start mixing metals by putting a brass plug in a steel heater shell. I am no chemist, but I do know dissimilar metals may cause an adverse chemical reaction. Likewise, a brass plug may have a negative reaction with minerals in the water. The mfgrs put a plastic plug in the heater for a reason. Some heaters may even be equipped with a sacrificial anode rod.
A few years ago there were a few threads on Galvanic Corrosion and hot water heaters. Should be able to pull up the threads by searching for Galvanic Corrosion.
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