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Old 08-03-2021, 06:47 PM   #1
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THOR #24420
Water pump access

Thor outlaw class c 29h, 2018

Pump is located under furnace in hallway. I want to remove the furnace to access pump because there’s no access hatches or removable panels anywhere.

Suggestions on the best way to access the water pump?
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Old 08-09-2021, 09:11 PM   #2
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THOR #24260
Heck, I though I had an issue. Good luck.
Mine is under the bed, below water tank. Wondering how myself.
Terry
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Old 08-09-2021, 09:57 PM   #3
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Ours is under the bed, also, along with the valve to empty the fresh water tank. That cover is screwed in place! I found an access door at Home Depot and painted it brown to match other panels inside. I built a frame and screwed it in, cut the door opening and mounted the door. Easy access to the fresh water tank drain valve!

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Old 08-10-2021, 01:02 AM   #4
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Wow, want to do mine….
Nice job, thanks.
Q: will the pump fit through that door?
Terry
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Old 08-10-2021, 01:09 AM   #5
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Very nice!!
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Old 08-10-2021, 01:11 AM   #6
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If I have to deal with the water pump, I'll open the access under the mattress and work it through there. This access just lets me open and close the FW drain valve.
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Old 08-11-2021, 01:10 AM   #7
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Q what access? I see no way to get to it unless I unscrew the top of the bed. No access panel, nothing. Bed frame looks to be on rollers?
Help, I’m getting the saws all ready.
Wife worried…..
Terry
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Old 08-11-2021, 01:32 AM   #8
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THOR #12751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
Thor outlaw class c 29h, 2018

Pump is located under furnace in hallway. I want to remove the furnace to access pump because there’s no access hatches or removable panels anywhere.

Suggestions on the best way to access the water pump?
I had an '18 29H once. Thor did quite the number on hiding the water pump in that model. There was no way to access it without removing the furnace.... which is about as crazy as it gets. You couldn't even access the strainer to clean it. At least they put the winterization port next to the fresh water tank.

Fortunately, I traded the coach in before I needed to deal with the pump. It is located beneath the furnace and I found no way to access it other than what you have found.... removing the furnace.

My best guess is you need to remove the cover for the exhaust on the outside of the coach and then remove the vent cover on the inside. I assume at that point you can disconnect the propane and wairing harness to slide the furnace out to access the pump.
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Old 08-11-2021, 01:33 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Pillbox View Post
Q what access? I see no way to get to it unless I unscrew the top of the bed. No access panel, nothing. Bed frame looks to be on rollers?
Help, I’m getting the saws all ready.
Wife worried…..
Terry

I have to take the mattress off the bed on Magnitude SV34 Super C. I have the king size tilt-a-view bed. There is an access panel that can be removed once the mattress is off so you can access the water pump, filter, winteriztion port and electronics bay.
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Old 08-11-2021, 04:36 PM   #10
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They must have moved it. On my 17 29h , it is located under the frig, behind a access panel.
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Old 08-11-2021, 05:03 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Trkyte@msn.com View Post
They must have moved it. On my 17 29h , it is located under the frig, behind a access panel.

On the ‘18’s the fresh water tank is under the fridge and the pump is next to it under the furnace.
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Old 08-11-2021, 10:14 PM   #12
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I guess I un screw the bed?
No door or anything.
Saws all sounds really good, then and a door
Terry
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Old 08-15-2021, 02:21 PM   #13
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On my little Class-C, Thor put the water pump in the electrical compartment, under the rear dinette seat. Not too awful for access, but the FW tank is under the front dinette seat, a distance of over 9 feet horizontal and 2 feet vertical. The pump was unable to self-prime because it is designed to be no more than 3 feet from the water source. Go Thor!

Besides that, I wasn't thrilled with having my water pump and strainer in the same compartment with my ATS, converter, inverter, 120vac breaker panel, 12vdc fuse panel, and CO detector.

I moved the pump to the same compartment with the FW tank where it belongs. Lots of room in there and easier to get to. It took me a whole weekend to rewire and replumb everything, but it was worth it. Now I can fill my FW from City Water just by turning a valve.

Why didn't Thor do that? Laziness?
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Old 08-15-2021, 03:48 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Wiley1 View Post
On my little Class-C, Thor put the water pump in the electrical compartment, under the rear dinette seat. Not too awful for access, but the FW tank is under the front dinette seat, a distance of over 9 feet horizontal and 2 feet vertical. The pump was unable to self-prime because it is designed to be no more than 3 feet from the water source. Go Thor!

Besides that, I wasn't thrilled with having my water pump and strainer in the same compartment with my ATS, converter, inverter, 120vac breaker panel, 12vdc fuse panel, and CO detector.

I moved the pump to the same compartment with the FW tank where it belongs. Lots of room in there and easier to get to. It took me a whole weekend to rewire and replumb everything, but it was worth it. Now I can fill my FW from City Water just by turning a valve.

Why didn't Thor do that? Laziness?
Sweet!! Would you mind posting a few more close-up pics of your plumbing? I've been wanting to put a diverter valve in the city water pex (near the pump) to fill the FW tank... then I have options other than just the gravity fill. Thanks!
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Old 08-15-2021, 04:29 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
Sweet!! Would you mind posting a few more close-up pics of your plumbing? I've been wanting to put a diverter valve in the city water pex (near the pump) to fill the FW tank... then I have options other than just the gravity fill. Thanks!
I'm calling it a "pump bypass valve" because that is really what it does. Your pump has a check valve built-in that stops water from flowing backward into the pump when it senses a certain amount of pressure. All I did was add some pex to go around it.

You shouldn't need any more pictures because this one is high-res. You can zoom in on any part of it.

I'll explain in more detail what you are seeing:

At the bottom is the line from the FW tank. Thor put a valve there to prevent antifreeze from backflowing into the tank. I cut the line after the valve.
Next is a T-fitting. One side goes to the Anti-freeze fill port and the bypass valve. The other side leads to the strainer and pump. I mounted the strainer with the bowl down. Thor had it upside down.
After the pump is another T-fitting and a shut-off valve. That valve isn't really necessary. I added it only so the pump could be serviced without disconnecting City Water.
Last is the output line that runs along the floor under the dinette and over to the hot water heater.
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Old 08-15-2021, 04:56 PM   #16
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Thanks for the details!
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Old 08-16-2021, 12:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
Sweet!! ... I've been wanting to put a diverter valve in the city water pex (near the pump) to fill the FW tank...
The worst part of the job was getting the hose clamps tightened correctly. If too loose, they leak. Too tight, they strip. And they have to be the right size. Bigger or smaller won't work. I was too cheap to buy the official Pex crimping tool.
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