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Hi, welcome to the forum and you have done “awsomely” so far. If you are not knowlegable around gas appliances you might want to have a mobie tech or RV dealer check this out for you to be safe. Or continue reading...
Just need to clarify something first.
The picture you show in the bathroom is a furnace heat output duct port......assuming my 2013 ACE is similar to yours. When you say the fan was blaring do you mean the fan is just blowing air strongly out the port or making a screeching noise like maybe the motor fan is dragging on metal parts of the furnace or the bearing on the furnace is squealing? The reason I ask is that if the fan is not turning properly it could result in failing to operate the sail switch during a call for heat from the thermostat OR if it passes that test, it may allow the furnace to start and then overheat since not enough air is being drawn through the combustion chamber/or from outside (around) the chamber for coach heated air. An overheated furnace should trip the limit switch which seems to be the LED code you are getting. I think that normally when things cool off the limit switch should reset automatically. Setting the code may have locked out operation though which is why you have to turn the thermostat on/off/on or operate the on/off switch in the furnace from outside. So the limit switch may just be doing its job (not actually failed)......but you need to determine if the fan motor/or squirrel cage fans on the motor shaft are functioning properly (just air noise); or the other issue could be a partially plugged combustion chamber (wasp nests etc) which is limiting air flow through the chamber. You do not want to overheat your furnace.
Now you say the furnace fan restarted when you called for heat.......but shut off again after about 30 seconds. This may be because the sail switch did not activate this time or the limit switch did not reset and is failed open now. The controller is shutting things down so you are not even getting to the gas valve opening or ignition cycle yet. You may also have a new code flashing now from this situation, which would require a furnace on/off switch cycle to clear it. If you have a voltmeter you should be able to carefully test for 12v coming through the sail switch and limit switch when the blower first starts up. Or you could use the ohm meter and test the limit switch for continuity (zero ohms cold) but turn off the 12v on/off switch on the furnace first or your ohm meter could smoke. You should have received a furnace manual that has the schematic inside.
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