Thor Forums

[TurnerFam]

the issue with simply 'moving' some breakers to the 'inverter', is that you also want these outlets to work when on Shore Power or the Generator, right?

if so, which most folks do, then it's not a simple 'move' because it would require a 'sub-panel' from your main panel, and a transfer switch if your inverter does not already include one.

if you don't care whether these outlets are powered while on Shore or Gen, since you have so much solar, and batteries can be charged while on these power sources, then just move the output wire of the breaker(s) that control the circuit/outlets you want the inverter to control TO the inverter's output.
Now, that's also not as 'simple' as it may sound, depending on your type of inverter and what wiring/connection types it uses. Some are hard-wire output only, some have a standard 'outlet' for the output, and some have both.


so, it's not necessarily an easy proposition, though it's doable, but you have to know what YOUR inverter is designed for, and how your WIRING is run within your RV's electrical design. It may be easier for some than for others.

Secondarily, you could also add a SECOND inverter simply to accomplish this. It might be easier than trying to use your factory installed one. There are many off-the-shelf 'power inverters' in the tire/battery section of the big box store, which can easily power all the things you wish - using extension cords, if needed.
There are actually many very large coaches that use TWO separate Inverters, for similar reasons.

also, thirdly, as many folks do, you can simply run extension cords from the 'convenience' outlet you already have access to. If it's a 15a or 20a circuit, you probably already have enough amperage for most everything you said you wanted to power by it, including the fridge.