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Old 01-16-2020, 07:55 PM   #9
lmichel
Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: New York
Posts: 55
THOR #10644
Well, Now we're getting somewhere! :)

These are some wonderful ideas. As a matter of fact, I have a spare 3000W true sine wave Xantrex that I was holding off using until I also get 400Ah of LiFepo4 (BattleBorns or Renogys). At that point, I was going to switch out the whole system. ie: out with the Xantrex XM1800 and Trojan T-145s..
I was kinda waiting for the day that the T-145s start to fail.

BUT.....

Maybe I could *add* the 3000W Xantrex and Lithium Iron Phosphates as a separate source? Although I'm not sure why I would want to do that.. Sure seems like overkill to me

Yes, it looks like my ClassA Outlaw is setup exactly as you guys describe. No subpanel out of the inverter. Just a junction box all wirecapped inside.
The fridge power is even hardwired straight from the inverter to a dedicated outlet. No breaker. And I bought this 37RB NEW from Camping World in 2016.

So the main panel breaker marked "Refridge" was very confusing.
Upon further investigation, that main panel Refridge breaker does NOTHING. There are no wires to it. And then I realized why. The other Outlaw ClassA model has an "outdoor kitchen". Wanna bet that kitchen option includes a second fridge!?

So Now I feel better knowing that there is no weird stuff going on with duplicate circuits - like I thought to the fridge.

I think my plan should be to install a subpanel in the basement very close to the inverter. Split those wirecapped circuits (TVs, Fridge, Convenience outlet) into a set of breakers. Add an extra breaker for the "General Outlets". The inverter has it's own transfer switch, so they'll run when on shore power.

Right around the time I get that complete, the T-145s will start to fail and I'll be swapping everything out! LOL

Thanks for the excellent pointers and ideas!
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