Love our Challenger

[EA37TS]

Two things to keep in mind for tire pressure.

First the max pressure stamped on the tire is the maximum inflation for any weight.

Second, the pressure on the label in the drivers compartment is the max pressure for the coach GVWR and can be verified using the tire manufacturers recommended inflation tables.

Get the coach weighted and set the tire pressure to that recommended for the weight. After weighing my recommended pressure is 90 PSI and that is what I run.

A trick I have used for years is to take a piece of chalk and put a 1 inch stripe across the tire tread from side to side. Drive the coach 1 or 2 miles and then check the chalk. If it is completely gone tire pressure is OK. If the chalk is gone in the center and remains on the sides the tires the tires are over inflated. If the chalk is gone on the sides but remains in the center the tires are under inflated. If you try this do it under dry conditions only because a wet road will wash away the chalk.

[Joe-FL]

Thanks Dave, that is a good tip.

[bigben]

Dave - GREAT tip

[ctpres]

There seems to be a very wide range of tire pressure being used. I suspect that may account somewhat for the ways different Challengers handle on the road. I for example am running 80 in front and 95 in rear. If I didn't screw up that number comes from Michelin chart and four corner weigh results. At 15,000 miles we have no obvious signs of uneven tire wear and I am comfortable driving five or six hours with occasional stretch and potty break.

[Techn0]

I really like the chalk trick, thanks for the idea Dave. I am doing the CHF this weekend and will let you guys know in about a week the differences.

As for the tire pressure, my posted PSI is 100 but of course after weighing my axles and referencing the Michelin chart, I went down to 95 and haven't had any issues. I manually check my pressure every time I move sites and have TPMS. I will give the chalk trick a try this weekend if I can get it to stop raining here.

For those that don't have the Michelin chart, Here is the link Michelin RV Tires | View Michelin RV Tires load and inflation tables for motorhomes and recreational vehicles. | Michelin RV Tires

[oldgold]

Is there a link to pictures and instructions of how to do the CHF on a Challenger? I have found some but all of the pic links are broken or it's just a bunch of people arguing that it is good/horrible idea.

[SuperD]

Once you get under the coach you'll see what everyone is talking about. On the front stabilizer you'll see the links coming down and attaching to the end hole on the stabilizer. Remove the bolts at the end of each link, raise the stabilizer bar and line up with the second set of holes and replace bolts, torque to 65 ft/lbs. My bar was stiff and I had to use a scissor jack to raise it in to place.

On the rear it's pretty much the same thing. Where the link attaches to the bar there is a "Z" bolt which attaches the bar to the long link from the frame. Remove the "Z" bolt, turn it around, raise stabilizer bar, and replace the link.

On the front and the rear you have to unbolt both links, raise the bar and then reattach the bolts, torquing to 65 ft/lbs. While you are under the rear check the bolts attaching the bar mount bushings, several people have reported their bolts loose or coming completely off!

On my coach the "Z" bolts and the upper link mounts were frozen, had to use penetrating oil to get them free. Not a hard job, just a PIA to get under the coach if you are very large. Well worth the effort in my opinion!!!

P.S. There are videos on you-tube but they don't show a lot either.

[oldgold]

Originally Posted by SuperD

Once you get under the coach you'll see what everyone is talking about. On the front stabilizer you'll see the links coming down and attaching to the end hole on the stabilizer. Remove the bolts at the end of each link, raise the stabilizer bar and line up with the second set of holes and replace bolts, torque to 65 ft/lbs. My bar was stiff and I had to use a scissor jack to raise it in to place.

On the rear it's pretty much the same thing. Where the link attaches to the bar there is a "Z" bolt which attaches the bar to the long link from the frame. Remove the "Z" bolt, turn it around, raise stabilizer bar, and replace the link.

On the front and the rear you have to unbolt both links, raise the bar and then reattach the bolts, torquing to 65 ft/lbs. While you are under the rear check the bolts attaching the bar mount bushings, several people have reported their bolts loose or coming completely off!

On my coach the "Z" bolts and the upper link mounts were frozen, had to use penetrating oil to get them free. Not a hard job, just a PIA to get under the coach if you are very large. Well worth the effort in my opinion!!!

Do you need a jack or just unbolt, move and rebolt?

[SuperD]

You will only need the jack to push the stabilizer bar up, some of them are really tight in the bushing mounts.

[Joe-FL]

Originally Posted by SuperD

You will only need the jack to push the stabilizer bar up, some of them are really tight in the bushing mounts.

I did mine about 2 weeks ago. It doesn't take much of a jack to move them. I was able to use my buddies concrete pad behind his house. It was "almost" level so we could line up the holes pretty easily.

There is one video on-line where the narrator just points under the coach and explains what holes things needs to be moved to front and rear. I simply stopped the video in a couple different places, took a quick photo with my I-phone, and then confirmed what I was seeing under my coach when doing the CHF. It turned out to be a very simply procedure.

[oldgold]

Well... I was planning and doing the CHF yesterday.. my wife had other plans! We ended up camping last night instead. It's nice for the kids (and me) to have Stone Mountain so close to the house. I was forced into watching football all night instead of honey-do's at the house. The dog caught a break too!

[SuperD]

That's terrible that your wife would actually make you use your RV, Lucky Dog and you too!!! Lol

I've seen pictures of the park and that area, looks beautiful!

[oldgold]

It's so much easier to just jump in and go with the Challenger as supposed to our old toy hauler. That trailer was a 37ft bumper pull from the tongue to the bumper. She was nervous with us having to back into our site yesterday and I started laughing. I tried explaining how hard it was backing up an F250 that is 22ft long and a 37ft trailer into tight sites vs. just backing up the coach. She was all insistent she get out and direct me. I just smiled and said.. Please just sit with the kids on the couch and I'll be backed in and set up in 3 minutes. I really liked our old trailer, but having a coach is so much easier to deal with.

[oldgold]

Originally Posted by SuperD

That's terrible that your wife would actually make you use your RV, Lucky Dog and you too!!! Lol

I've seen pictures of the park and that area, looks beautiful!

It's a really nice park. They have a huge campground that is well maintained. We have two boys, a 2.5 year old and a 6month old. The older one loves the new playground and it's just an easy trip for us only being 40 minutes from the house. Stone Mountain can be a little touristy but the campground is pretty laid back. I'd rather camp somewhere in the mountains but for a quick night or two, you can't beat it being so close.

[SuperD]

I also had a truck and trailer in the past, a Chevy 1 ton crew cab with 24' travel trailer, a real PIA to park in some areas. After having my first MH, a 24' class C, I thought to myself "I'll never go back to truck and trailer again" and I haven't. Our last coach was a Tuscany which we loved. When we moved to the Dallas area we had no place to park or store our coach so we sold it. After missing RVing for a short time we purchased our Windsport, love it, and can park it at our house. A drivable coach is the only way to go.

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by oldgold

It's so much easier to just jump in and go with the Challenger as supposed to our old toy hauler. That trailer was a 37ft bumper pull from the tongue to the bumper. She was nervous with us having to back into our site yesterday and I started laughing. I tried explaining how hard it was backing up an F250 that is 22ft long and a 37ft trailer into tight sites vs. just backing up the coach.

Originally Posted by SuperD

I also had a truck and trailer in the past, a Chevy 1 ton crew cab with 24' travel trailer, a real PIA to park in some areas.

I'm right with you guys: Before the Axis we had a 31' 5th wheel and F350. Granted backing in the 5th wheel was easier than the two bumper pulls we had before but the combination was still very long (the wife was afraid to drive it). Now with the Axis (even with a car in tow) its nothing...

[Techn0]

Originally Posted by oldgold

Is there a link to pictures and instructions of how to do the CHF on a Challenger? I have found some but all of the pic links are broken or it's just a bunch of people arguing that it is good/horrible idea.

This is probably the most detailed instructions I have found so far. The sun in shining today and hoping to do the front stabilizers at the very least today. I will see if I can do a video to help others.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/cheap...72335-252.html

[Techn0]

Okay, I just completed the CHF for the front and back. Including getting tools ready and putting them away, it was a total of about 2 hours. It was not as complicated as I thought it was going to be. After completing it, I took my rig for a little drive and you can definitely tell the difference. That was the best two hours spent and I am sure saved me more than $2000 installing third party Sway Bars.

Here is how I did it:

Front Sway Bar:
You will need a 18mm socket, 15mm wrench, 100lbs torque wrench, hand jack, thread locker blue, and maybe a hammer. Make sure your jacks are up and that you are on level ground. Loosen the bolts and remove them from the SB. Don't worry about getting hit by anything as there isn't any tension in the SB. Try to position the bars into the inner hole. In my case, I was on very level ground and was able to slide the bolts into the inner holes with very little effort. I put thread locker on the nuts and tightened them back up to about 68lbs of torque. I think 66lbs is required but I am an overachiever. That is it, all done.

Read Sway Bar:
You will need the same tools. For the rear, you will see that both holes are used. Is all you have to do is remove the bolts and reverse them. The rear SB was a little tight so I had to use a hammer knock the bolt back for it to come out. Once they were all out, I tried to line up the bolts in reverse order. In my case, I noticed that one was lower to the ground so I saved that one for last. I put the bolts in the opposite side then I needed the hand jack to raise the SB up a little for the bolt to align. Once all the bolts were in, I put thread locker on the nut and tightened it back down to 68lbs torque.

Approaching the task was more intimidating then actually completing it. I am glad I finally did it and now all I need is a Safe-T-Plus stabilizer for the front and I will be a happy camper. Sorry, I wasn't able to do a video because the DW wasn't around and I couldn't put it anywhere that wasn't wet from last nights rain. I also didn't get a chance to try the chalk trick that Dave recommended but will do that some other time when I am in dry conditions. If you haven't done the CHF yet because it appears intimating, no this. If I can do it, I promise that almost anyone can complete it successfully.

[bigben]

oldgold - you have it very tough. Cannot decide who has it tougher - you or the dog :-)

Techn0 - glad it worked out so well.

[oldgold]

Originally Posted by bigben

oldgold - you have it very tough. Cannot decide who has it tougher - you or the dog :-)

Techn0 - glad it worked out so well.

The dog for sure!