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Old 10-29-2017, 11:22 PM   #21
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Had an 1800 watt Xantrex inverter installed when we originally bought the Gemini. It powers the TV's, selected 120 volt outlets and the refrigerator, so while we are underway, the refrigerator is powered by 120 volts, which the engine alternator replaces. If I park for any period of time. I switch the refrigerator to LP. Inverter is located in outside forward compartment under the kitchen sink, control panel on side of sink cabinet to the left as you walk into the coach.
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:34 PM   #22
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Here are a couple of shots of the rack...
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Old 10-06-2018, 08:40 PM   #23
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bolandd,

Reviving an old thread. I want to add an inverter to the 2018 24.1 Vegas. I have researched and have seen videos on how to do it on other sized Vegas rv's. Where exactly is your inverter installed on this particular floor plan.

Thanks
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Old 10-06-2018, 09:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mstng View Post
bolandd,

Reviving an old thread. I want to add an inverter to the 2018 24.1 Vegas. I have researched and have seen videos on how to do it on other sized Vegas rv's. Where exactly is your inverter installed on this particular floor plan.

Thanks
I installed a small inverter on top of the dog house and ran the wires thru the dog house and then back to the house batteries. Itís enough to run a small appliance, fan or drill.
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Old 10-08-2018, 05:16 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by mstng View Post
bolandd,

Reviving an old thread. I want to add an inverter to the 2018 24.1 Vegas. I have researched and have seen videos on how to do it on other sized Vegas rv's. Where exactly is your inverter installed on this particular floor plan.

Thanks
Did you see my writeup a few months ago on my Aims 1200 watt inverter?

I Installed under my bed.

Were is your fuse box? Under the bed? If so I bet you have room for it.

Works great.
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Old 10-09-2018, 12:52 AM   #26
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Silly question my friend. Iíve followed all your posts. Itís almost creepy You and others are why my coach is cool and quiet.
My 24.1 fuse box is identical to the video but in the hall below the fridge. Very small space. Wires go to the passenger twin bed where the transfer switch and water pump sit. There is plenty of room there to do what you did. About a 5 foot run from the panel. I also could access the fuse panel from the outside compartment and go from there. Plan to wait till it cools off a little and revisit. Thanks for your help with this and the other issues.
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Old 10-09-2018, 01:47 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by mstng View Post
Silly question my friend. Iíve followed all your posts. Itís almost creepy You and others are why my coach is cool and quiet.
My 24.1 fuse box is identical to the video but in the hall below the fridge. Very small space. Wires go to the passenger twin bed where the transfer switch and water pump sit. There is plenty of room there to do what you did. About a 5 foot run from the panel. I also could access the fuse panel from the outside compartment and go from there. Plan to wait till it cools off a little and revisit. Thanks for your help with this and the other issues.
Good to hear. Yep this forum has helped me tremendously. I have learn so much and have completed so many impovements/mods/saftey updates on my Axis.

I think I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. I only have a handfull of small mods/impovements left. But I have a feeling I will always find something else that "needs improvement" (but its really because "I want to impove it"). LOL.
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Old 12-06-2018, 06:46 AM   #28
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Vegas 24.1 Aims Inverter installed

Just completed the Aims 1200 watt inverter with remote switch install in my ‘17-Vegas 24.1
As seen on this forum by others, I ordered all parts from Amazon for under $200.
Placed the remote switch on the entry wall below the GFI outlet
Placed the inverter next to the water heater on a support ledge
I connected to the outlet line so that I can watch TV without being hooked up to 120 volt Shore Power or using Genny.
Also, I added a GFI box off the outlet line for the outside TV. That is, I left the existing outside TV GFI receptacle in place, (it’s located under the cooktop attached to the wall behind the lower drawers.
Instead, I added a separate box with GFI receptacle.
So all TV’s can now be used without 120 volt Shore Power hook up or Genny.
So far, so good.

As previously discussed...
- refridge is hooked to the outlet line, so be mindful of that when using inverter
- inverter must be in the “on” position when plugged to shore power in order to enable the Transfer Switch. However, in this mode the inverter is not actually running (internal fan is not on)
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Old 12-06-2018, 01:52 PM   #29
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I was thinking of doing something like in the attached diagram. Install a new sub-panel powered from the inverter, and transfer the circuits for outlets and TVs from the existing breaker panel to the new sub-panel. I would install a breaker in the existing panel to provide AC power to the inverter. Does this look like a good plan?
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:45 PM   #30
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Taylorbob1, Outstanding.....Looks awesome. I like your outside TV hookup. I thought about doing something like that but I never seem to watch the Outside TV unless we are looked up someplace anyway.

You will love this Aims Inverter. Best bang for the buck. I tested how quickly the transfer switch works on mine is by hooking up to shore power and connecting + disconnecting with the TV on. It dont ever flicker. Works great.
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Old 12-06-2018, 02:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
I was thinking of doing something like in the attached diagram. Install a new sub-panel powered from the inverter, and transfer the circuits for outlets and TVs from the existing breaker panel to the new sub-panel. I would install a breaker in the existing panel to provide AC power to the inverter. Does this look like a good plan?
Which RV do you have? How big is your inverter? I guess it would work but is it really needed? Mine works great as is. I have the same exact inverter as Taylorbob1.

Why do you feel you need to change this? Perhaps you need a larger inverter to do the entire RV?

I added one more outlet with two recepticals and two build in USB port under the dinette where you can reach them easy. That way i can charge the phones and laptop on my diningroom table without crawling under the table.
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:16 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Which RV do you have? How big is your inverter? I guess it would work but is it really needed? Mine works great as is. I have the same exact inverter as Taylorbob1.

Why do you feel you need to change this? Perhaps you need a larger inverter to do the entire RV?

I added one more outlet with two recepticals and two build in USB port under the dinette where you can reach them easy. That way i can charge the phones and laptop on my diningroom table without crawling under the table.

Mine is a class C (Chateau 31E). I'd mainly like to be able to power the TVs and electrical outlets with the inverter. Use of the microwave would also be nice, but not as high a priority.
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:41 PM   #33
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Mine is a class C (Chateau 31E). I'd mainly like to be able to power the TVs and electrical outlets with the inverter. Use of the microwave would also be nice, but not as high a priority.
Ok, did you purchase your inverter yet? You might need a larger one (like 1500).

I didnt plan on running anything like a Micro or hair dryer. I can always turn on the Genny for 15 mintes so I could not justify going any larger.

Plus I only have two 6v 220 amp hour batteries.

Do you plan on adding batteries?

Do you plan on Boondocking for a long time?
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Old 12-06-2018, 06:08 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Ok, did you purchase your inverter yet? You might need a larger one (like 1500).

I didnt plan on running anything like a Micro or hair dryer. I can always turn on the Genny for 15 mintes so I could not justify going any larger.

Plus I only have two 6v 220 amp hour batteries.

Do you plan on adding batteries?

Do you plan on Boondocking for a long time?

I don't plan to boondock for a long time. We usually camp with electrical hookups, and if not it's usually just for a night. We'd just like to be able to watch TV during those nights without hookups, or while driving, and be able to power a coffee maker and laptops.



We did camp at Yellowstone for 4-5 days without hookups and managed okay, so it's not a big deal, just a "nice to have" for us. Ideally, I'd have more batteries and solar, but I wanted to start with an inverter.



I don't have the inverter yet, just doing research now. I was thinking around 1800W. I heard that this could power a microwave if desired.


I currently have two 12v batteries. Not enough for long boondocking without running the generator, but should be enough to watch a movie and then make a pot of coffee in the morning.
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Old 12-06-2018, 06:55 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorbob1 View Post
Just completed the Aims 1200 watt inverter with remote switch install in my Ď17-Vegas 24.1
As seen on this forum by others, I ordered all parts from Amazon for under $200.
Placed the remote switch on the entry wall below the GFI outlet
Placed the inverter next to the water heater on a support ledge
I connected to the outlet line so that I can watch TV without being hooked up to 120 volt Shore Power or using Genny.
Also, I added a GFI box off the outlet line for the outside TV. That is, I left the existing outside TV GFI receptacle in place, (itís located under the cooktop attached to the wall behind the lower drawers.
Instead, I added a separate box with GFI receptacle.
So all TVís can now be used without 120 volt Shore Power hook up or Genny.
So far, so good.

As previously discussed...
- refridge is hooked to the outlet line, so be mindful of that when using inverter
- inverter must be in the ďonĒ position when plugged to shore power in order to enable the Transfer Switch. However, in this mode the inverter is not actually running (internal fan is not on)
Thanks for the detailed write up for installation in the 24.1. Now that the Florida heat is done i plan to get started on this soon. Between You and long and winding road I think i can handle it.
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:20 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by mstng View Post
Thanks for the detailed write up for installation in the 24.1. Now that the Florida heat is done i plan to get started on this soon. Between You and long and winding road I think i can handle it.
Yep, not problem. You can do it.... we are always on standby here at Thor forum. LOL.
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Old 12-06-2018, 07:31 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
I don't plan to boondock for a long time. We usually camp with electrical hookups, and if not it's usually just for a night. We'd just like to be able to watch TV during those nights without hookups, or while driving, and be able to power a coffee maker and laptops.



We did camp at Yellowstone for 4-5 days without hookups and managed okay, so it's not a big deal, just a "nice to have" for us. Ideally, I'd have more batteries and solar, but I wanted to start with an inverter.



I don't have the inverter yet, just doing research now. I was thinking around 1800W. I heard that this could power a microwave if desired.


I currently have two 12v batteries. Not enough for long boondocking without running the generator, but should be enough to watch a movie and then make a pot of coffee in the morning.
Ok, great.

I also look at the cost/rewards part of the install. The Aims 1200 watt inverter with extra remote is around $200. Some of the larger inverters can run big money and if you really dont need it why send the money.

Not sure what the draw is on your coffee maker - 1200 watts might be enough?

Plus they say its more efficient to run an inverter at like half or 3/4 of its power rating? Or something like that. (So like use 800 watts out of my 1200 watt inverter is better than using only 200 on 1200). If you figure up your usage on average and go to the next size up inverter?

Where do you want to install your inverter?.... Take the dimentions and add about 5 or 6 inches all the way around and on top of it to see if it will fit. You might find out you dont have room for the 1800 watt.

I would upgrade your batteries ASAP as well. The more the better.
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Old 12-06-2018, 09:11 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
I was thinking of doing something like in the attached diagram. Install a new sub-panel powered from the inverter, and transfer the circuits for outlets and TVs from the existing breaker panel to the new sub-panel. I would install a breaker in the existing panel to provide AC power to the inverter. Does this look like a good plan?
i suggest not doing a second sub panel.
the "converter" has just one line coming out of it for the standard outlet, plus one coming out for the GFI outlets.
in otherwords, based on your diagram. you will not be able to access separate lines to the outlets.

the simplest and most cost effective way to add an inverter (coming out of the converter) is the way that "2 Trail Hikers" did it.
check videos on utube and follow that as an understanding and basis of how to do

one last thing, it's best to upgrade to two new house batteries when you add the inverter.
I purchased two Interstate deep cell from Costco, under $80 each.
3 year warranty.
Check water regularly & if they fail it's an easy return/replacement.
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Old 12-06-2018, 09:24 PM   #39
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And if you did this sub panel your inverter would have to be on all the time - even with hooked up to shore power in order for your outlets to work. I like the idea of NOT having mine on the time.

I have about 3 or 4 outlets that are powered by the inverter now ... plus the outlets that power the TWO inside TV (which will also power DVD players if you have them). So its more than enough for most folks without messing around with a subpanel.

Just make sure you get an inverter with a auto transfer switch..... It makes using the inverter so much easier.
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Old 12-17-2018, 12:01 AM   #40
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Ready to Install the AIMS

Thanks for all your help and ideas, will add the GFI for the outside TV, thanks taylorbob1. Recently upgraded to the PD 4655V, now want to add the AIMS Pure Sine 1200. But noticed in the literature that AIMS recommends 4AWG or 2AWG (best)for feeding the unit. Should I upgrade my wires from the battery to the inverter, just to feed the receptacles that power the TVS as you all have done? Not adverse to doing this as it does not look like too big a challenge. The biggest wires at the DC board are 6AWG, is this enough for the inverter to run efficiently?
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