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Old 11-23-2021, 10:13 PM   #41
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Brand: DRV
Model: 39TKSB3 "Modified"
State: South Dakota
Posts: 1,838
THOR #1661
Quote:
Originally Posted by MS60ocb View Post
I have talked to Lippert and my jacks are not Lippert. Lippert jacks have multi-mounting hole and mine has 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom spaced about 21 inches apart. I think someone addressed that requited welding extra brackets to make the change.

I have a note into DRV for more info on my jacks.

Clay

DRV will refer you to Lippert.

Best to rebuild yours with QUALITY parts that Les uses and as mentioned fix the potential rubbing thru of the return line.

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Old 11-24-2021, 02:10 PM   #42
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State: Texas
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
DRV will refer you to Lippert. as mentioned fix the potential rubbing thru of the return line.

Thanks for the input but with comments there is questions.


On the return line rubbing, where is that location. is that hose from the DS?


I had talked to Lippert before contacting DRV. If i had to use Lippert it would require welding some additional mounting brackets. I haven't heard from DRV which isn't surprising as the only person that works through the Thanksgiving holidays is Santa Claus.


The service Tech that was to be here yesterday at 1PM was reported 20 minutes away at 3PM and at 3:10 cancelled. Another fellow is to be here before 10 this morning get me travel ready. I don't like pin on the tripod but at least I'm firm gravel and not concrete.
Clay
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Old 11-26-2021, 02:30 PM   #43
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Tuesday evening another Tech was scheduled and arrived Wednesday Morning. He knew his business but it took him awhile to decide it wasn't a check valve before going on to the cylinders.

I do have an ODS cylinder bad. The tech wanted to order parts but I told I will have them repaired and he was OK with that. We had got the RV back on the truck so I can travel.

Now I'm looking someone for the cylinder removal either in the Kerrville - San Antonio or Livingston area. How do remove the ODS cylinder, Where do you peal the tin? Bottom side, the Battery book or Propane Box?
Last question today how do I contact Les about repair?
Clay
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:34 PM   #44
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Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
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THOR #1658
Quote:
Originally Posted by MS60ocb View Post
Tuesday evening another Tech was scheduled and arrived Wednesday Morning. He knew his business but it took him awhile to decide it wasn't a check valve before going on to the cylinders.

I do have an ODS cylinder bad. The tech wanted to order parts but I told I will have them repaired and he was OK with that. We had got the RV back on the truck so I can travel.

Now I'm looking someone for the cylinder removal either in the Kerrville - San Antonio or Livingston area. How do remove the ODS cylinder, Where do you peal the tin? Bottom side, the Battery book or Propane Box?
Last question today how do I contact Les about repair?
Clay
Les’s contact information is in the first post. Removing the cylinder is quick and not hard at all. Two lines and one bolt and out she comes. But you need a hole that is about 4’ deep. Some places told me that they lift the rig by the pin. I would not want that stress put on my frame. A pit is the only safe way of removal.
ODS? Peal the tin?
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Old 11-26-2021, 09:37 PM   #45
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Give Les a call!!!

This is what wears and he has a method to keep this from ever getting worse. I guarantee yours have wear.

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Old 11-27-2021, 12:30 AM   #46
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Brand: DRV
Model: 2019 MS 39DBRS3
State: Delaware
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MS60ocb View Post
I have talked to Lippert and my jacks are not Lippert. Lippert jacks have multi-mounting hole and mine has 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom spaced about 21 inches apart. I think someone addressed that requited welding extra brackets to make the change.

I have a note into DRV for more info on my jacks.

Clay
You need to talk to someone else at Lippert.
The multi hole jacks are for newer RV's, around the 2018 model year and forward.

Even so, you are still better off hav9ing them repaired by a trysted hydraulic shop as mentioned above.
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Old 11-27-2021, 04:46 AM   #47
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Removing the cylinder is quick and not hard at all. Two lines and one bolt and out she comes. But you need a hole that is about 4’ deep.
Thanks for reminding of Les's Contact info. I had a guy in Memphis tell me about lifting pin and I said no way. He couldn't tell how he was going to store it till the parts came back.
I trying to get a picture with bolts at 2 locations, attached but getting past my bed time, Clay
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Old 11-27-2021, 04:50 AM   #48
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Click image for larger version

Name:	20211123 DS Front Jack connections_resized.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	358.3 KB
ID:	35013 Front DS Jack. ODS only top is partially visible.
Clay
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Old 11-27-2021, 05:43 AM   #49
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Model: 38 RSB3
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Originally Posted by MS60ocb View Post
Thanks for reminding of Les's Contact info. I had a guy in Memphis tell me about lifting pin and I said no way. He couldn't tell how he was going to store it till the parts came back.
I trying to get a picture with bolts at 2 locations, attached but getting past my bed time, Clay
Going to store the rig? Just keep the truck attached. Of coarse you need to cap the lines. A picture of what? If a shop does not know how to remove them, leave the shop. It is really simple.
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Old 11-27-2021, 04:25 PM   #50
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There is "ONE" bolt at the top to remove the ram and outer sleeve as a unit. Can't be much easier.


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Old 11-27-2021, 05:00 PM   #51
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Les said to sent as shown above if you want the added sleeve to keep the return line from getting worse and eventually wearing thru. He needs the outer silver sleeve to make sure the added ring is snug to the inside of the silver tube for best performance. Also it makes the RV more stable.

If just wanting the rams rebuilt remove the silver tube and save the shipping. Personally I would spend the extra $$$ and get it done right.

FYI he uses MUCH higher quality seals and a MUCH better designed.
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Old 11-28-2021, 03:52 AM   #52
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Thanks again. I now understand the one bolt.

I will try connecting with Les later tomorrow.
I have tried to get the caps & plugs but my source would have to order them and I'm too mobile. Presently the couch is my Home so the truck has to remain connected but Wednesday should be at one location for Four months.

Cummins 12V98, I will take your suggestion to send both the Ram and supporting silver tube.

I had no problems of leakage til Tuesday morning then a complete failure.

Clay
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Old 11-28-2021, 03:52 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by MS60ocb View Post
Thanks again. I now understand the one bolt.

I will try connecting with Les later tomorrow.
I have tried to get the caps & plugs but my source would have to order them and I'm too mobile. Presently the couch is my Home so the truck has to remain connected but Wednesday should be at one location for Four months.

Cummins 12V98, I will take your suggestion to send both the Ram and supporting silver tube.

I had no problems of leakage til Tuesday morning then a complete failure.

Clay
I will let him know you will be calling. I have been to 4 different Hydraulic Supply shops and every one has lot's of caps and plugs.

You will need two different caps. One like pictured above and another that will look like the plugs on your rear rams where hoses are not attached. I will post a pic.
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Old 11-28-2021, 04:20 PM   #54
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You will need four of each. Have lots of paper towels available.

"P" is plug on left and "PL" is on right in pic. "B" is for the bolt holding the ram in place.

This is a GREAT time to replace your four front ram hydraulic lines. Any Hydraulic shop can make them to length.

One option is to remove one line at a time for passenger ram and tie some sort of pull line to it for pulling new hose back into place. This way you can take lines with you to have length and fittings duplicated. The other method is to measure the lines get them made and have a double ended "union plug" like plug on left to connect new line to old line and pull thru into place.

These hoses are the cheapest JUNK available and the hoses on the front ram system get the most abuse. I guarantee you will have hose failure if you don't replace them. See pic below of whet they start looking like.

You will need four caps pictured before if replacing hoses. Honestly it's best to have a few of each on hand.



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Old 11-28-2021, 07:49 PM   #55
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Some NAPAs also are able to make lines. I replaced mine as there was a blister in the outer casing. I agree if your pulling the rams, inspect your lines really closely.
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Old 11-29-2021, 01:08 AM   #56
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It's the perfect time to replace something that is known to fail.
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Old 11-29-2021, 02:49 PM   #57
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Model: 41 RSSB 4
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you SHOULD have BOTH rams rebuilt , you will appreciate it in the future !!! Time and shipping are better this way
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Old 12-01-2021, 01:48 AM   #58
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I talked to Les this afternoon. If I can get the rams to him by the 10, he should be able finish the work by Christmas Pending what he finds inside. Anyway I travel to Kerrville TX tomorrow. I think I have a better chance getting the parts removed. Les and I discussed packing the ram and support tube in PVC pipe for shipping.
Thanks to all
Clay
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Old 12-01-2021, 01:54 AM   #59
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The PVC tube is a great idea!!!
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Old 12-04-2021, 07:19 PM   #60
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I have settled in at Kerrville TX and have batted 0000 in locating someplace to drop the jacks. I have talked to dealers, Tire - Alignment shops, wrecker and body shops about the removal of the 40 inch jacks but no one has a pit, I have gotten, "YES, we can remove the jacks while connected to the truck". So I ask about their pit. No don't have a pit, you drop them a bit and wriggle them around.
I had someone, 2 hours away, talking to me who has acreage, Back-hoe and some augers. But I'm waiting on his schedule.

I have all the hydraulics removed and tomorrow I may have a closer location to dig my own hole.
Clay
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