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Old 10-08-2017, 02:27 AM   #21
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Quantum 31WS
State: North Carolina
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THOR #9452
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Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
Instead of a string get a Level Mate Pro. Once installed and calibrated it will tell you exactly how far off level your coach is in inches at each corner. I've had the LMP for several months now and it works great.

String and line level is much cheaper.....
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Old 10-08-2017, 03:30 AM   #22
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Model: ACE 30.3
State: Arkansas
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Originally Posted by Joe-FL View Post
I suppose camping with a wheel, or wheels raised off the ground boils down to personal preference. From all the responses it sounds like some folks feel it is okay and some feel it stresses the components.

This summer we pulled into a large resort CG during a storm. I positioned the coach, set the brake, and auto leveled while waiting for the rain/wind to die down. When I finally exited the coach I noticed that the door was sticking. The site was very low in the back and my rear duals were almost off the ground. The exit door of the coach not shutting correctly told me that my frame was flexing and I certainly was not going to stay in that position.

I pulled the jacks up and moved the coach a little on the site. I also drove the rear duals up on some pieces of lumber. I could then manually level and all was good.
How did driving the rear duals up on lumber help the leveling, unless you also blocked the jacks?

Also, the rear wheels being off the ground should not in anyway flex the frame. Think about it, the frame is capable of supporting 15,000+ lbs (depending on which F53). In other words, it's very stout. The rear wheels hanging down will have zero impact on that frame torquing.

The levelers are attached directly to the frame, so while probably not safe, from a flexing the frame standpoint, you could raise all four wheels and if you manually did it or the auto level was properly zero leveled first, there will be no adverse impact on the frame.

I don't think I will use auto level, because it feels way to violent to me and at least prior to resetting the zero, it isn't doing a good job of getting level (I'm guessing Thor installs these without zeroing them out).

If raising the front wheels off the ground was going to do damage, do you not first think that Thor would state not to do it in their manual, and second install jacks that can raise the front tires a foot or more off the ground?
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Old 10-08-2017, 03:31 AM   #23
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THOR #8012
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Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
Instead of a string get a Level Mate Pro. Once installed and calibrated it will tell you exactly how far off level your coach is in inches at each corner. I've had the LMP for several months now and it works great.
I have one on my counter top that I'm going to install tomorrow. It doesn't take that long to manually level, especially with good feedback (I've been using a little level between the seats), and I'm just not happy with the violent movement of the auto leveling.
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Old 10-25-2017, 03:28 AM   #24
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THOR #3786
I have a Thor chateau 2016 they told me it was okay for the wheels to be off the ground. But 2 years later I Am leaking hydraulic fluid from the self leveling jacks I have taken it to campworld on two occasions. They keep telling me it is fine there's nothing wrong with my system but it still leaks. Most likely I'm going to have to replace the $900 pump. So the answer is by the yellow blocks at campworld to help level your RV so the wheels are off the ground in the front. Happy RV in
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Old 10-25-2017, 03:31 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by RVbeetle View Post
I have a Thor chateau 2016 they told me it was okay for the wheels to be off the ground. But 2 years later I Am leaking hydraulic fluid from the self leveling jacks I have taken it to campworld on two occasions. They keep telling me it is fine there's nothing wrong with my system but it still leaks. Most likely I'm going to have to replace the $900 pump. So the answer is by the yellow blocks at campworld to help level your RV so the wheels are not off the ground in the front. Happy RV in
Sry, typo the wheels should not be off the ground stressing the hydraulic system
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Old 10-25-2017, 01:18 PM   #26
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I've got a question about order. My 31W has stickers on the Autolevel panel saying to level then put out the slide. During my walk around orientation at General RV, the tech said to run the slide first and then level so the offset weight was taken into account in the leveling.

Pete
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Old 10-25-2017, 02:49 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by petefoss View Post
I've got a question about order. My 31W has stickers on the Autolevel panel saying to level then put out the slide. During my walk around orientation at General RV, the tech said to run the slide first and then level so the offset weight was taken into account in the leveling.

Pete
Pete, not sure the answer, when I bought mine they told me to never put the slide out until the unit is level.
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Old 10-25-2017, 03:28 PM   #28
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I was told the same thing: Level the rig, and THEN fire up the slide extenders.
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Old 10-25-2017, 03:39 PM   #29
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Most of these salesmen DO NOT have a clue how to correctly operate most any of the systems on the rvs they sell, the only time they've spent in a rv is while it's on the lot. You know the saying "if their lips are moving"!
I would level then deploy the slides. When we stop for breaks while traveling we will extend the slides without leveling & hasn't hurt anything yet. To be honest I don't think the slides are nearly as delicate as they'd have you believe.
As for the level up system, the jacks will leak if/when they are extended for long periods, usually operating them a couple times stops the leak. If not don't replace them ($500-600 each), go to a hydraulic shop & have the rebuilt ($100-150 each) with better seals. My 5er sat for 4 days with no wheels/tires only on the level system while waiting for brake parts, it was solid as a rock. My buddy paid $600+ for a new pump which didn't fix the problem, turned out it was a $15 relay/breaker. Since the pump was installed, NO refund, so just like your personal doctors, get a second opinion.
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Old 10-25-2017, 04:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefoss View Post
I've got a question about order. My 31W has stickers on the Autolevel panel saying to level then put out the slide. During my walk around orientation at General RV, the tech said to run the slide first and then level so the offset weight was taken into account in the leveling.

Pete
The tech is wrong! Jacks down, slide out, slide in then jacks up.
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Old 10-25-2017, 04:56 PM   #31
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Agree - jacks first - then slide... especially with full wall - I wouldn't be twisting the unit with slide out...

You will find the right amount of 'off level' (raising the slide side just a bit more as you are leveling) that will compensate for the slide going out.
About 'half a bubble' works for us - and ends up level once slide is out.
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:28 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by RVbeetle View Post
I have a Thor chateau 2016 they told me it was okay for the wheels to be off the ground. But 2 years later I Am leaking hydraulic fluid from the self leveling jacks I have taken it to campworld on two occasions. They keep telling me it is fine there's nothing wrong with my system but it still leaks. Most likely I'm going to have to replace the $900 pump. So the answer is by the yellow blocks at campworld to help level your RV so the wheels are not off the ground in the front. Happy RV in
The weight difference on the jacks from wheels on ground but suspension extended - and wheels off the ground - just isn't that large... The systems are rated to lift well over the weight we are lifting.
Jacks will leak sometimes - but tying that to having lifted the front wheels off the ground is a stretch in my opinion.

To keep the weight off the jacks, you would need to fully level with blocks - and use the jacks for at most stabilizers.... I got the jacks for convenience and not having to deal with the blocks.

Replacing the pump for a leak at the jacks?? or you can't find the leak?
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:41 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans View Post
I would level then deploy the slides. When we stop for breaks while traveling we will extend the slides without leveling & hasn't hurt anything yet. To be honest I don't think the slides are nearly as delicate as they'd have you believe.
.
That's most likely true, but it never hurts to be cautious...
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:43 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefoss View Post
I've got a question about order. My 31W has stickers on the Autolevel panel saying to level then put out the slide. During my walk around orientation at General RV, the tech said to run the slide first and then level so the offset weight was taken into account in the leveling.

Pete
This has been pretty well covered in previous replies to you, but I will add that I think in the Thor manual they even go on to say that you can do structural damage leveling it with the slides out. I doubt very much you did when the tech showed you that (I've been trying to remember, but I think the tech that did my walk through might have showed me the leveling with the slides out, but then again, he might have run them in first -- not sure).

If you use Autolevel, you can either rezero it with the left side a bit high, so that way it will always auto level the left a bit high and then when you run out the slides it will sag back down to level, or you can auto level and then give the left a bump or two (or whichever side your slides are on) to raise it a bit.
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:49 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by gmc View Post
The weight difference on the jacks from wheels on ground but suspension extended - and wheels off the ground - just isn't that large... The systems are rated to lift well over the weight we are lifting.
Jacks will leak sometimes - but tying that to having lifted the front wheels off the ground is a stretch in my opinion.

To keep the weight off the jacks, you would need to fully level with blocks - and use the jacks for at most stabilizers.... I got the jacks for convenience and not having to deal with the blocks.

Replacing the pump for a leak at the jacks?? or you can't find the leak?
Gmc, is such a far stretch as you say, what it suppose to do and what's it not doing is two different things. you come pay the bill when I get it fixed. To clarify I have hydraulic juice all over the RV pump and underneath the bottom of my Rv. Look I see you have alot of knowledge but you don't have to post if you don't know what your talking about. Granted the jacks should lift the RV no problem; is it worth taking a chance having your wheels off the ground and Dealing with a potential leak or bad pump.
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:00 PM   #36
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:15 PM   #37
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I gave up on the auto level function for two reasons 1) Most of the time it would raise wheels off the ground and 2) It would keep raising the RV and finally give up and report it can not level.

I do have a question for those who self level. What in the RV do you use to determine level? I usually use the floor in the center, but then the stove and bed are always still off.
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:40 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by RVbeetle View Post
Gmc, is such a far stretch as you say, what it suppose to do and what's it not doing is two different things. you come pay the bill when I get it fixed. To clarify I have hydraulic juice all over the RV pump and underneath the bottom of my Rv. Look I see you have alot of knowledge but you don't have to post if you don't know what your talking about. Granted the jacks should lift the RV no problem; is it worth taking a chance having your wheels off the ground and Dealing with a potential leak or bad pump.
All I said was in MY OPINION it is a stretch to tie a leaking pump to having the front wheels lifted... based on my experience and what I have seen from others.
Not doubting you had a problem - pumps will fail at times... as will jacks... hoses... anything on our houses that bounce down the road... I haven't seen any indication that problems with jacks are related to lifting tires off the ground...
You are of course entitled to your own opinion... and to level your rig as you wish.
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:57 PM   #39
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Have you tried tighten all the fittings connected to the pump & jacks? I found several of mine were loose at purchase & work loose occasionally while bouncing down all the pristine highways across the country.
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Old 10-25-2017, 08:09 PM   #40
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If your leveling system isn't getting your coach level, it needs to be serviced. I don't know what kind of leveling system you have, I'm familiar with HWH and for eleven years on our DP they worked flawlessly. In fact as we speak an HWH leveling system is being installed on the Gemini. Also if your leveling system is not capable of lifting the weight of your coach, its an under rated system. On the DP, when I had to have front tires removed, either for new tires, or in one case on the road at a truck stop for balancing, the HWH jacks is what we used to get the front end off the ground.
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