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Old 03-12-2019, 10:10 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2016 Thor Outlaw 29H
State: Tennessee
Posts: 434
THOR #13869
My new learning curve: the Refrigerator

First, I want to say thanks for this forum and the info folks have provided.
Somebody posted a link to a troubleshoot and repair guide for Norcold frdges, I printed it out, and it helped a lot.

Refrigerator would not start up on 120 vac.
Hmmm
Spent a couple days reading through searches here until I found that link, very good.

At first I was worried about the fridge itself because on LP gas, it took two days, at least, to see results.
I was relieved to at least know the cooling system worked and did not need an $800 cooling unit install, which I would have attempted myself.
I kind of expected to see cooling results within the first 12 hours on LP, just was not sure, because it was in 40's outside anyway.

After looking, and testing to verify power, from the outside source through to the 120 vac outlet at the back of the fridge.
Looked at all the fuses, circuit breakers, and learned some things along the way.

Question: The 120 vac in the breaker box, it is present (and all outlets in the RV work) both, with the use switch on or off, is that okay?
I thought otherwise and read the switch says Use/ Battery disconnect, or something similar, Huh! Who-da-thunk!

Well anyway, I found a fuse blown, the 5 amp AGC type glass tube one on the power board and replaced it.
Testing the fridge from initial start up again...
This time, no 120 vac found, and after the LP gas starts up no problem, I get an on code of 3 blinks then on every three seconds.
The AC heat element fault code.

The AC heat element shown zero, zilch, for resistance on my ohm meter.
I have one on order now.

I did notice the one resistor, mounted directly above that 5A AGC fuse, the panel board around it has yellowing discolor, not the resistor itself, just the board.
That resistor in slot 611, measures 6.86 ohms.
Until I get and install the AC heater, I will not know if I also need the power board too.

I know the bands represent a code for resistance, I don't have it memorized anymore, besides, I was not an electronics tech during my career, I do remember some of the mnomic, and also know some proprietors created their own color code to decipher resistor values.
What do I know, meanwhile...

At least the fridge is working, (it even made ice!), and I can leave for the week, heading out to SW Alabama.
I won't have internet, never serf on my cell phone, so I won't update this thread until I get back.

Thanks again for the knowledge y'all share on here, I'm still learnin'!
Stay safe out there... ttyl
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:09 PM   #2
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Model: 2016 Siesta Sprinter 24ST
State: Florida
Posts: 300
THOR #2812
Use/Store switch-- Really a house battery disconnect switch. It disconnects only the house battery from providing 12 volts to the house. Does not affect the 120 volt system. ( Some 12 volt detectors may still be powered by the battery)

If you are connected to the power pedestal or your generator and getting 120 volts, all your 12 volt circuits may get power from your converter even with the use/store switch off. But if you unplug from the pedestal you would lose your 12 volt lights, fans etc.

Some 120 volt appliances also need 12 volts for control circuits, (refrigerators) 120 volt circuits are normally protected by circuit breakers and 12 volt by fuses.

The resistor- Reading the ohms of a resistor in a circuit you are also reading the resistance of anything in parallel with the resistor.
Most absorption refrigerators (RV) take a full day to cool down when first turned on..
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:54 PM   #3
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: North Carolina
Posts: 266
THOR #11380
"Most absorption refrigerators (RV) take a full day to cool down when first turned on.."

Above is reason it is recommended to cool down the reefer before you leave. Also it is recommended you chill, prior to getting underway, anything that will go in the reefer.
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Old 03-15-2019, 05:47 PM   #4
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 29m
State: North Carolina
Posts: 173
THOR #9553
My experience with my norcold after the green light blinking 3 times was this. Called Norcold and that was worthless. Took it the CW and they fixed it in 15 minutes and cost me $70 friggin dollars cause it was not a warranty issue. I has just filled my propane tank and apparently that introduced air into the gas lines. Here's the solution to save you guys money. When you store your coach for 2 weeks or more or fill your tanks before you do ANYTHING!!!! Light a burner on your gas stove and wait til the flame is a constant blue color. This is the best way to get the air out of the system since the burners are at the highest point. My fridge gas supply was interrupted and even when on shore power needs to see gas pressure or it will flash the code, " 3 green light flashes". Hope this helps so done out there!!!!
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:02 PM   #5
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2016 Thor Outlaw 29H
State: Tennessee
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THOR #13869
I just wanted to add: back from my trip, installed ac heating element, and our fridge works great on 120 vac.

Then the coach batteries lost all charge, even after yesterday's 350 mile trip with use switch on.
It's always something!
Good thing for this forum...
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:32 PM   #6
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Model: 2015 Vegas 24.1
State: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,304
THOR #2601
10scDust -- I have said this more than dozens of times on this forum: Owning an RV is an adventure in self discovery.
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