Putting motorhome on grass

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

Perhpas it's "Six tires, and four leveling jacks"?

That makes sense for the 10, now what does that mean in relationship to keeping bugs away because he can't get all 10 points of contact to match?

I have concrete surface and I still use pressure treated blocks I made from 2x12s from lowes.

I am confused on how he is saying he does not have a problem with bugs?

[Bob Denman]

Let's hope that one gets some explanation added to it...

[Barrhavencobra]

I agree with others who have mentioned moisture causing rust. Although it may sound funny, this is very true, better to even pit down a heavy plastic under the rv but it will kill the grass. Just my thoughts.

Jim.

[Bob Denman]

That just means that there's less lawn to mow...

[dkoldman]

If you are fortunate to live in a city that allows an RV or boat to be parked at your home, then I would think some minimum voluntary home improvement i.e gravel ought to be considered. In our case, our city and HOA allows;but you are required to have city approved permit for improved surface which has the same specification as the driveway of 4" thick of concrete. It costs; but in the long run it is very nice. I store a 24ft boat and 30ft RV off to the sides of my driveway and it quadruples my use of each; let alone saving me the storage fees for both ($thousands of dollars /yr). I would guesstimate my payback (return on investment) for my boat extension 6 months, and for my RV with the added the 50 amp service 18 months. But remember, you do for aesthetics & convenience, but in time you are making a profit and the bonus is maybe no neighbor complains about an untidy look to try to make it illegal in your area.. as long as it looks good everyone is happy.

[Bob Denman]

I agree. If it's worth doing: it's worth doing right!

[JimC]

I store my Class C on grass. Fortunately, it parks level [or very near]. I am hesitant to put the pistons down on my Bigfoot levelers for storage. I don't want any chance for corrosion or rust to form on the exposed extended cylinders.
Any thoughts about this?
Jim

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JimC

I store my Class C on grass. Fortunately, it parks level [or very near]. I am hesitant to put the pistons down on my Bigfoot levelers for storage. I don't want any chance for corrosion or rust to form on the exposed extended cylinders.
Any thoughts about this?
Jim

Yes, read post #25. If you care about your Class C to be concerned about corrosion or rust; not to mention all of the other benefits, why don't you improve the surface pad you will store it on?

i.e when I have new car, I always keep in the garage, when my car is 7 years or older, I really don't care where I park it. There is no right or wrong answer, but if you have any means to keep your RV off the grass, I say do it, regardless of laws or ordinances.

[Hugh.vines@att.net]

Originally Posted by DogLovers

Difference is this. Those destroying property in Seattle and a Portland are criminals. You people quite obviously elected socialist commies in those two city’s. This is what left wing liberalism brings to the table. Aren’t you, your wife and her mother proud of yourselves. [emoji45]

Yes in 100 days we are taking the grass back

[JimC]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Yes, read post #25. If you care about your Class C to be concerned about corrosion or rust; not to mention all of the other benefits, why don't you improve the surface pad you will store it on?

i.e when I have new car, I always keep in the garage, when my car is 7 years or older, I really don't't care where I park it. There is no right or wrong answer, but if you have any means to keep your RV off the grass, I say do it, regardless of laws or ordinances.

Due to HOA restrictions, I am unable to store my camper at my home. It is stored at a farm about 15 minutes from where I live. I am not able to change [improve]the surface beside the barn where it is parked. The farmer keeps the area well mowed [no fire danger] and provides a 30Amp electrical service.
Jim C.

[EA37TS]

A few posts in the thread have been deleted for being too political. If it occurs again the thread will be closed.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JimC

Due to HOA restrictions, I am unable to store my camper at my home. It is stored at a farm about 15 minutes from where I live. I am not able to change [improve]the surface beside the barn where it is parked. The farmer keeps the area well mowed [no fire danger] and provides a 30Amp electrical service.
Jim C.

Are you saying you have no choice?

I would think if it were a farm, it would be easy to lay down gravel or a concrete pad? But if you have no choice then parking on the grass is option you chose versus paying to store elsewhere. I don't see any issues other than the realities of parking on grass vs gravel; vs concrete. At least you are not in a residential area where you may have neighbors that could complain about the aesthetics

Between you and me, and if I had the same dilemma with my new coach, I would store on the farm too, my worry would be getting rid of mice / rats NOT moisture. Of course I assume I would have ZERO option to pour concrete? Concrete will not stop the rats, but it would be easier to control them versus being on grass.

FWIW, my coach was brand new; stored inside at a dealership in Florida, .1 hour on generator and only the miles to drive it from Forest City Iowa to Port St Lucie' FL; but there was all kinds of rust on the bottom. I finally reasoned that the Chassis must have been stored outside by Ford a while before Winnebago bought it to build the coach The jack levelers also had some rust and it was brand new!!!

[Bob Denman]

If the owner of the property is unwilling to consider (at your expense) a pad of crusher run: is this the only possible storage spot?

[JimC]

For the time being, this is the only viable storage. Although where I park is level, there is very good drainage so my spot stays pretty dry. The grass is mowed, and a weed eater is used around the camper.i am also allowed to do minor work on the camper on site.

[Dick Rohde]

Try some 2 x 12 Ground Treated planks to drive on.

[DaveBiles]

Guess we are lucky.
Central Florida. Set up a parking pad, 10' X 45', for RV with recycled asphalt. About 6" thick and leveled it. Added a 50 amp rv plug, ran a water line. We can put the slides out and level to coach and use it at home without issue.
Parking pad cost about $600.00 delivered and spread.

First time we tried to use it, without the parking pad, we were on sandy soil. Jacks malfunctioned, broke and stuck in the down position. It was a new rig and due to Covid-19 it took 4 months to get it fixed.
We are good to go now.
Thor Outlaw 37GP

[Bob Denman]

Glad to see that everything is now back to "norbal"...

[steggall7]

We use jack pads at our camp sites when we are on grass. It works good. Just park and line them up under your jacks.

[Bob Denman]

How much larger are your jack pads: than the typical SnapPads?

[JimC]

I have wood jack pads made from treated 10 inch lengths of 2x8s. I put a small screw hook loop on one side so I can grab it with a 1/4in "L" bar. Then I don't have to crawl under the unit to place/remove the pads. I have two sets of taller pads that are stacked two deep, and screwed together, for steeper campsites. These pads work very well and store easily in a box.