Harris Batteries (coach)

[DocMike]

Mo_Mike,

I simply replaced the Harris Batteries with two Exide Nautilus Batteries from CW (exact specifics listed elsewhere this forum).

After testing of the WFCO charger by CW it was determined that the charger was working fine.

After much finger pointing the summary was that the batteries were "Sulfate Dead" and would not hold a charge (after less than 5 months of ownership). This, presumably, was because the batteries were not properly/correctly charged following their installation at the factory. This may have occured while in transit from manufacturing or while "on display" at the dealership.

After I replaced the batteris - and now that I am responsible for charging them in a timely and correct manner - NO PROBLEM! The WFCO is working fine with the new Non-Harris Batteries holding a charge all the time.

Doc

[Ag&Au]

A simple converter, when there is not enough load to maintain enough current draw, can overcharge the battery. This is also another cause of sulfation. There are several situations that can hasten sulfation.

This link although commercial is informative.

https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/arti...n-go-away.html

It is my opinion formed from prematurely replacing RV batteries, that a sophisticated converter is a key component in extending battery life. I believe a convertor should have a desulphating cycle as the one of the sophistications to lengthen battery life. The one I linked to above has that. If I kept a simple converter and left the RV plugged into 115VAC, I would disconnect the batteries and maintain them with a battery minder type charger during period of RV disuse.

One cannot say without doubt, that the converter is not damaging the batteries, until the batteries have survived a lengthy period of time without damage.

Typically a new quality converter will last the length of the life of the RV. There could be a significant difference in cost of battery replacements during that time depending how well the converter is taking care of the batteries.

Once again this is my opinion, I'm not an expert.

Ken

[nosticks]

AG&AU, you are not too far off on your analysis. I have been maintaining multiple deep cycle battery banks for better than 25 years on cruising boats. The batteries in our coaches are not as robust as golf cart batteries and will not withstand deep discharges to less than 50% capacity very long without replacement.

That said, our Four Winds 22e is equipped with a WFCO 8955, which is a smart 3 stage converter having Absorption, Bulk, and Float mode. These converters should provide a reasonable life span to a well made and well treated battery. It's when we continually take the 12v system down to where the lights barely glow as in boondocking, we will see a significantly shorter battery life.

My best guess to the Harris battery life is that the coaches while sitting on the dealer lots are suffering from the deep discharge cycle I described. It doesn't take very many of these cycles to reduce battery life.

[Metalman]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

... If I kept a simple converter and left the RV plugged into 115VAC, I would disconnect the batteries and maintain them with a battery minder type charger during period of RV disuse. ...


Ken

Until I decide to upgrade the converter on the RV I will keep the coach batteries charged with a battery maintainer. I wonder if it's necessary to physically disconnect the batteries from the coach when maintaining them? If the store/use switch is in the store position, I assume there is no load on the batteries, unless it's from the coil on the relay associated with the switch.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Metalman

Until I decide to upgrade the converter on the RV I will keep the coach batteries charged with a battery maintainer. I wonder if it's necessary to physically disconnect the batteries from the coach when maintaining them? If the store/use switch is in the store position, I assume there is no load on the batteries, unless it's from the coil on the relay associated with the switch.

If it were I, I would be concerned about the converter overcharging the batteries if there were no load on them. I really wish we had someone here who had a more thorough knowledge of how all these factors interact.

Ken

[Metalman]

Originally Posted by Metalman

Until I decide to upgrade the converter on the RV I will keep the coach batteries charged with a battery maintainer. I wonder if it's necessary to physically disconnect the batteries from the coach when maintaining them? If the store/use switch is in the store position, I assume there is no load on the batteries, unless it's from the coil on the relay associated with the switch.

I just answered my own question. I checked the "parasitic" drain on the coach batteries when the store switch with was in the store position (.058 amps). Then I checked the drain when the switch in the run position (.85 amps). I installed a knife type disconnect on the negative side of the two batteries and will keep a maintainer connected to them for long-term storage.

[petef]

I am surprised you got that much time out of them, mine lasted about 6 months..and killed the extra battery I put in. Now, you raised a question.. your chassis battery was dead, I assume the Harris killed it but it should not be on the same circuit. Today I found mine is, if I disconnect the coach batteries I still have 12v system working inside.. from the chassis battery.. The evans box or whatever both batteries connect to is the reason. If I disconnect the chassis wire to that all power goes out if coach are disconnect, so the cross over is in that box. I am calling Thor this week to find out why. Does not seem right..

[winder1]

I have had 2 failures of the battery control box in my coach in the past 3 months. It's 10 months old and still under warranty. If I would have had to pay, I understand the part is about $850. THOR has no idea why the boxes failed. Last one is much larger, been installed for 2 months.

[Kev]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

We recently sold our 7 year old Airstream trailer. It came equipped with Lifeline AGM batteries. After reading a lot of information on RV Converters, I replaced the cheap crappy converter that came with the Airstream a few weeks after we got it. I replaced it with an IOTA DLS-55/IQ4. The IQ4 part is important. Our trailer spent a lot of time on shore power as it was plugged in even when stored. So, a high quality converter was necessary to save the batteries.

IOTA Product Specifications

The batteries were still functioning as new when we sold the trailer.

With our motorhome, I plan to make the same swap, but i'm not in a big hurry because apparently the batteries are substandard also. However it will get done in a few months.

Ken

Hey Ken

Let us know when you change out the converter. I would like to know how difficult it is. I wanted to also an inverter so I could watch the tv when tail gating with using the generator.

Kev

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Kev

Hey Ken

Let us know when you change out the converter. I would like to know how difficult it is. I wanted to also an inverter so I could watch the tv when tail gating with using the generator.

Kev

I don't anticipate a difficult job. Our "Wild Flower Power Changer", or whatever its chinese name is, is in a compartment under the foot of our bed. I plan to mount the new one behind the existing one, and simply swap the wires around. The stock fuse panel will remain where it is. However, I will admit that I haven't done any measurements yet. There is also a storage compartment in that area so I have options.

Ken

[petef]

I talked with Thor, they think it is the box, the emergency switch solenoid. They gave me a part number for the whole box to call dealer for a price. I will be talking to a good repair shop next week and find out if I can just replace the solenoid or simply disconnect it as the only use is to use the coach battery to start in case the chassis battery goes dead. I don't see that as a high probability and there is a work around, ie, jumper cables..

[tenbear]

For a lot of good info on RV batteries, have a look at "The 12 volt side of life".

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)