Originally Posted by The_Breeze
Can we go into this more please? I also have the isolation relay and wored it to a Li-BIM only it comes out of the relay and throws 2.5A when the dash switch is pressed. You say you discarded it. Why did you take that approach instead of letting the Li-BIM logic do that? Not that's it's wrong. Curious (re: https://www.thorforums.com/forums/sh...4&postcount=91
I am wondering if we are getting some confusion about the LBIM? It replaces whatever isolation device you have with connections to each battery system, ground, and trigger wire (ign) hot when the ignition is on, and a trigger wire (sig) hot when you depress the emergency battery connection. Isn't that all there is to it?
An alternative is to replace the isolation device and install a DC to DC charger between the systems. All you loose is the emergency battery connection. In this case, you would simply jump the chassis battery like you would any other vehicle. Am I missing something?
As pointed out a couple of different ways to deal with the issue. The third is to remove all connection and depend on the alternator to charge the chassis battery and use shore or solar power to charge the house batteries.