Bottle Jack Leveling

MichaelMaduske · 03-14-2022, 07:24 PM

I have a 2022 Chateau 27R, it does not have levelers, only rear stabilizers. I am tired of using the leveling block options and want to use (4) 6-ton hydraulic bottle jacks for leveling. Anyone doing something similar?

Ottosails · 03-14-2022, 10:55 PM

Don't see why it wouldn't work but I almost think its easier to use Lego leveling Blocks. That way you place them the under the tires without crawling underneath the coach to get to the frame. After you have the jacks placed you need to go back and forth crawling under again and again to adjust them. My 2 cents...

MichaelMaduske · 03-14-2022, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ottosails

Don't see why it wouldn't work but I almost think its easier to use Lego leveling Blocks. That way you place them the under the tires without crawling underneath the coach to get to the frame. After you have the jacks placed you need to go back and forth crawling under again and again to adjust them. My 2 cents...

Thanks for your input but as I mentioned above, I am no longer interested in using the lego (Lynx) leveling blocks. If the bottle jack solution works, there are more benefits than having to reach, I shouldn’t have to crawl, under the coach.

DbleDutch · 03-15-2022, 03:13 AM

A friend uses your bottlejack idea, but yes it is crawling under his rig to reach frame members.
We added a Levelmate Pro to our 24F that has only stabilizers like yours. The Levelmate, once setup, will tell you just how much lego block in inches are needed at each corner to raise. Set the blocks, drive on them, set your parking brake, done.

MichaelMaduske · 03-15-2022, 03:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DbleDutch

A friend uses your bottlejack idea, but yes it is crawling under his rig to reach frame members.
We added a Levelmate Pro to our 24F that has only stabilizers like yours. The Levelmate, once setup, will tell you just how much lego block in inches are needed at each corner to raise. Set the blocks, drive on them, set your parking brake, done.

Thanks! I was looking at those too.

sportcoupe · 03-15-2022, 07:24 AM

I agree with OP. Using legos for leveling is a drag, literally.

I used them for years with my Class B. On loose or stony dirt sites, the legos just pushed away when I try driving onto them. A royal pain. I see other RV'ers in Class C struggle the same.

MichaelMaduske · 03-17-2022, 03:41 PM

I am gonna give it a shot. I only used 3 of the 4 8 ton bottle jacks I bought to get it level in my driveway. I know campsites will vary in terrain and this may prove to be a major PITA but the weight is off the suspension, the RV is level left to right and front to back and coupled with the Rhino Store RVLeveler Pro I bought too, it may just be the ticket.
We shall see. Weekend trip planned and we will try it out. Worse case scenario, return the jacks and go back to the Lynx Levelers, which I hope not to,

Ottosails · 03-17-2022, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sportcoupe

I agree with OP. Using legos for leveling is a drag, literally.

I used them for years with my Class B. On loose or stony dirt sites, the legos just pushed away when I try driving onto them. A royal pain. I see other RV'ers in Class C struggle the same.

Agree they are a drag. I always had good success using cotton rags under the the legos on pavement. Just one under the leading edge stops the skidding.
Gravel is a whole other animal...

Chateau_Nomad · 03-17-2022, 04:21 PM

I'd say give it a try. There are many leveling options, and everyone has their favorite.

What I've discovered is where you camp makes a world of difference in your choice of leveling options. People who camp in mostly flat terrain can easily get away with a few planks/Lego blocks under the wheels... sometimes "cheating" and just using the electric stabilizer jacks. However, extremely unlevel spots are far more challenging, and often require far greater (robust) methods.

When we bought our 24F class C in the fall of 2019, we started using a combination of 2x6 PT boards (carryovers from our Grand Design trailer) and the plastic Lynx levelers. We often camp in quite unlevel spots (mountains) with few level options, which required often raising a corner drastically.

After crushing several of the plastic levelers, those got tossed. I looked at the bottle jack option... and considered the effort involved. I also weighed the expense of hydraulic levelers... NOT cheap!

After one camping season of fighting having to crawl around placing boards under the wheels and taking up an entire storage compartment with those 2x6 planks... I begrudgingly invested in a manual Big Foot leveler system. I got the lowest cost manual system... not the automatic. It was just under $3k ($2,900 and some change).

A huge investment... but I'm no spring chicken anymore. The whole point of "upgrading" to a class C motorhome from our towable was the fact that the whole loading/hitching process was getting to be a monumental chore. Now, we leave the motorhome loaded during the "season". We do hitch up a toad... but that's FAR easier than hitching the truck ever was.

I considered what we were in this for. For us it's for enjoying traveling - especially after retirement. I want to balance removing the "pain points" as much as possible with finances. EVERYONE has to do that... decide what your priorities are, but also affordable.

MichaelMaduske · 03-17-2022, 04:35 PM

I appreciate the input.
My biggest issue is not necessarily finding a level spot, but leveling the coach due to a poor design and weighted heavily to the left side, even with the slide in. If this doesn’t work, we may look into the leveling system you mentioned above.
Thanks again

plastrd · 03-19-2022, 06:24 PM

Bottle jacks are cheap but you're trading stability, especially on a slope where the jacks are likely to tip over without warning.

I had our last trailer on a bottle jack while repacking the wheel bearings and taking the wheels off to have the tires replaced. The jack sunk into the ground slightly and tipped while I was sitting on the ground right next to it and the trailer fell down onto its frame. The ground at an unlevel campsite is going to be potentially just as soft so I wouldn't trust a bottle jack for leveling.

The hydraulic levelers are just fancy bottle jacks but they're welded/bolted to the frame so they can handle a little lateral load without rolling over.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

After one camping season of fighting having to crawl around placing boards under the wheels and taking up an entire storage compartment with those 2x6 planks... I begrudgingly invested in a manual Big Foot leveler system. I got the lowest cost manual system... not the automatic. It was just under $3k ($2,900 and some change).

Did you have them installed or were you able to DIY it on the 24F? It looks like no-weld but figuring out where to attach the cylinders, place the pump and route hoses sounds daunting.

Msdpok · 03-20-2022, 03:25 AM

I use a combination of 2x8 and ramp levelers especially if we’re on gravel it seems using 2x8 under the duels works better one at 3’, that way I can stack a 2’ on top of it if needed! And then line up the ramp levelers on 3/4 plywood in the front, they are 3 stage so you different heights! Also use Hopkins LED leveler inside, works great!
Often wondered how hydraulic jacks would work, even thought about having them welded in place on the rear….

MichaelMaduske · 03-20-2022, 07:42 PM

First time using my setup not in my driveway and it was a success.
This morning, tried using the lynx levelers under my tires just to see how they would do on the gravel. They performed much better under my jacks. I was able to level in one shot, using the Rhino Leveler and pretty sure this will be my go to moving forward for leveling. Yes, a little more work to setup but much more precise for leveling and no sag from the slide out.

Msdpok · 03-20-2022, 08:42 PM

Anyone have an opinion to welding them in place? I interested because if you can you can screw them down then place your blocks and level? I think the hardest part would be collapsing them??

MichaelMaduske · 03-20-2022, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Msdpok

Anyone have an opinion to welding them in place? I interested because if you can you can screw them down then place your blocks and level? I think the hardest part would be collapsing them??

That would be an interesting concept/option.
Only issue I have with that is making these permanent. A $30 jack could fail and need to be replaced at some point and would hate to have it welded there.

Msdpok · 03-20-2022, 08:51 PM

Mike, agreed, I’m not sure if the screw extension actually comes all the way out? But if it’s done by a welding shop I would imagine it wouldn’t be a huge job replacing it? It’s definitely something sounds feasible!!

JimC · 03-21-2022, 01:50 AM

It's a little more expensive, but I highly recommend BIGFOOT hydrolic levelers. You can get either manual or automatic systems. The manual is quite a bit less expensive. I have had the automatic on both of my units, but manually level [just push buttons - 2-3 minutes] more than half the time.
I had the mounts welded to the frame and did most of the rest of the install myself.

MichaelMaduske · 03-21-2022, 01:58 AM

“A little more expensive”?
I have less than $200 in this setup.
The Bigfoot systems are in the thousands.

Chateau_Nomad · 03-21-2022, 03:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plastrd

Bottle jacks are cheap but you're trading stability, especially on a slope where the jacks are likely to tip over without warning.

I had our last trailer on a bottle jack while repacking the wheel bearings and taking the wheels off to have the tires replaced. The jack sunk into the ground slightly and tipped while I was sitting on the ground right next to it and the trailer fell down onto its frame. The ground at an unlevel campsite is going to be potentially just as soft so I wouldn't trust a bottle jack for leveling.

The hydraulic levelers are just fancy bottle jacks but they're welded/bolted to the frame so they can handle a little lateral load without rolling over.

Did you have them installed or were you able to DIY it on the 24F? It looks like no-weld but figuring out where to attach the cylinders, place the pump and route hoses sounds daunting.

I had them installed by Big Foot at their HQ/installation facility in White Pigeon MI. I made an appointment with them, then drove the MH from Ohio and spent the night in the MH with electric hookup behind their shop. The brackets are welded to the frame, then the jacks are bolted to the brackets. I went straight to the source... I wanted it done correctly with no hassles. I was on my way back to Ohio before noon.

The pump and reservoir are under the rig on the driver side roughly halfway back, and behind the propane tank. The control panel is mounted in the doorway in the same area where the stab jack switches are.

I have had a few leveling situations (WV) where wheels were completely off the ground. In those situations, I use one foot square pieces of rubber stall mat stacked under the wheel for stability. I keep about eight of those in storage... which do take some room... but FAR less than the boards did. BUT... read on, as I think even putting "wheel padding" down is unnecessary... IF THE RIG IS COMPLETELY RAISED PROPERLY.

Note: A Big Foot tech had me bleed the system while the rig was sitting here at home last fall. He had me FULLY extend all four jacks... which lifted ALL FOUR WHEELS completely off the ground! I left it sit like that for a couple hours, then retracted the jacks. I walked around in the rig while "up on stilts", and it felt rock solid stable. The drive is slightly unlevel, but the MH wasn't going anywhere. THE KEY is raise the front FIRST, then raise the rear. The rear wheels are the e-brake.

With the jack brackets welded to the frame, there would have to be tremendous lateral force applied to bend those brackets and cause the motorhome to fall.

JimC · 03-21-2022, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MichaelMaduske

“A little more expensive”?
I have less than $200 in this setup.
The Bigfoot systems are in the thousands.

Sorry. I thought you might be interested in a very stable system where you arent "crawling around."
BTW, RVupgrades.com sells the Bigfoot kits for considerabily less than quoted in a previous post. I agree they are expensive, but also feel they are worth every penny.
JC

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