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12-02-2018, 01:11 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
Posts: 2,280
THOR #1658
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Front cap insulation, step 1
I noticed that my front closet would be HOT in the summer, strong sunny days and COLD in the winter. So I took a look inside and discovered that my insulation has fallen down, 1st picture below. I am almost done fixing the problem. I will post my experience and results later.
But my first step is to show how I gained access to the back of the nose cap.
I installed two 4 inch boat inspection hatches.
I first cut out a hole so it would fit snug.
I then marked were the screws would be needed to secure the inspection hatch.
I then glued wood behind the cedar board.
I then drilled pilot holes and mounted the hatch up.
Note: I chose white inspection hatches. Also the 12oclock positioned screw did need backing as there is a wood brace from the factory there.
__________________
2016 DRV38RSB3
2015 Ram 3500 Regular Cab DRW CTD Asian trans 410 rear
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12-02-2018, 01:31 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38RSSA
State: Wisconsin
Posts: 342
THOR #3221
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Thanks for the pics Ryan! Interested in seeing how that job goes.....
Dan
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12-02-2018, 01:36 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
Posts: 2,280
THOR #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapperdan
Thanks for the pics Ryan! Interested in seeing how that job goes.....
Dan
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Thanks. There have been SEVERAL lessons learned so far on the do’s and don’ts that I plan to pass along.
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2016 DRV38RSB3
2015 Ram 3500 Regular Cab DRW CTD Asian trans 410 rear
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12-02-2018, 02:35 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
State: Texas
Posts: 142
THOR #11383
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Thanks and I will be following your post.
I don't understand the first picture but I suspect it a picture from one opening to the side or down,
Clay 2016 MS 38PS3/Dallas #8120
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12-02-2018, 02:40 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
Posts: 2,280
THOR #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MS60ocb
Thanks and I will be following your post.
I don't understand the first picture but I suspect it a picture from one opening to the side or down,
Clay 2016 MS 38PS3/Dallas #8120
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Yes it was pictured through the hole that I made. The camera is pointed down. You can see sprayed glue on the wall and the insulation bat had fallen.
__________________
2016 DRV38RSB3
2015 Ram 3500 Regular Cab DRW CTD Asian trans 410 rear
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12-02-2018, 03:26 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
State: Texas
Posts: 311
THOR #9543
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I'm not sure of the purpose of this post, but as I recall, it was discussed at length quite a few months ago. Same situation, HOT closet. I posted removing the marker lights and blowing in insulation to fill the entire front and rear cap; no more heat. Is this a different solution to the HEAT?
Also, your second picture shows the wall on the passenger side of the closet. The cedar front part of mine is totally broken away from the side wall, and I can stick my and into the crack. I'm not sure what happened, but it appears that they left out the support frame, and the cedar wall has nothing on which to attach. I'm going to have to remove the cedar wall (the one with the safe), and rebuild the frame work.
__________________
2017 36RSSB3--2012 F350 KR, LWB, SRW, bilsteins, 1 1/4" anti sway bar, bilstein steering stabilizer, airlift air bags, on board wireless compressor, 295/20 tires at 4080 pounds each, oversized finned aluminum diff and trannie pans, all synthetic fluids; KEM, Tyrant, and PIP tunes with SCT X4 programming, G37 2017 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission and torque convertor, Edge CTS gauge monitoring.
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12-02-2018, 04:30 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
Posts: 2,280
THOR #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clev
I'm not sure of the purpose of this post, but as I recall, it was discussed at length quite a few months ago. Same situation, HOT closet. I posted removing the marker lights and blowing in insulation to fill the entire front and rear cap; no more heat. Is this a different solution to the HEAT?
Also, your second picture shows the wall on the passenger side of the closet. The cedar front part of mine is totally broken away from the side wall, and I can stick my and into the crack. I'm not sure what happened, but it appears that they left out the support frame, and the cedar wall has nothing on which to attach. I'm going to have to remove the cedar wall (the one with the safe), and rebuild the frame work.
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I am not using blown insulation, fiberglass. I was worried about weight, especially if it got wet. And if it got wet I did not want to create a mold issue. These were just some of my concerns. So I am going with something else.
I’m sorry if you feel insulted, I guess. Would you prefer that I post this up in your post or maybe I will not share my way of executing it.
Again I am sorry that you took some offense of this post.
__________________
2016 DRV38RSB3
2015 Ram 3500 Regular Cab DRW CTD Asian trans 410 rear
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12-02-2018, 04:52 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
State: Texas
Posts: 678
THOR #3109
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Ryan,
Now you've gone and done it--one more thing to check. Looking forward to more posts and what you put in there.
Right now, trying to find where some honey bees have homesteaded up front--maybe I'll kill two birds with an insulation project.
Joe
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40QBH
2015 38RSSA--traded
2005 36TK3--retired, but it was a good one
2017 F450 KR
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12-02-2018, 05:12 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
State: Texas
Posts: 311
THOR #9543
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Maybe I came across the wrong way, sorry. I am definitely not insulted nor offended. I'm not sure what I posted that illicited that response. I'm honestly curious if you have another solution. I also posted the question about my cracked wall to see if you could comment because you have actually gotten a visual into your front cap.
__________________
2017 36RSSB3--2012 F350 KR, LWB, SRW, bilsteins, 1 1/4" anti sway bar, bilstein steering stabilizer, airlift air bags, on board wireless compressor, 295/20 tires at 4080 pounds each, oversized finned aluminum diff and trannie pans, all synthetic fluids; KEM, Tyrant, and PIP tunes with SCT X4 programming, G37 2017 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission and torque convertor, Edge CTS gauge monitoring.
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12-02-2018, 05:17 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
Posts: 2,280
THOR #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut60
Ryan,
Now you've gone and done it--one more thing to check. Looking forward to more posts and what you put in there.
Right now, trying to find where some honey bees have homesteaded up front--maybe I'll kill two birds with an insulation project.
Joe
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I bet they got in through the hitch. I took my endoscope to try to take a look of what was where. And I discovered what looks like it’s a mud wasp home. I had no clue that it was there. His home is circled in red. The other pic shows were it may have gotten access. You are seeing a piece of foam pipe insulation that I shoved in there circled in red. I then ran three strips of Gorilla tape over it to really seal it up. Also look in the hitch to the right and left. You will see two circle cut outs that also offer access.
__________________
2016 DRV38RSB3
2015 Ram 3500 Regular Cab DRW CTD Asian trans 410 rear
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12-02-2018, 05:31 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
Posts: 2,280
THOR #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clev
Maybe I came across the wrong way, sorry. I am definitely not insulted nor offended. I'm not sure what I posted that illicited that response. I'm honestly curious if you have another solution. I also posted the question about my cracked wall to see if you could comment because you have actually gotten a visual into your front cap.
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No problem. I only took a few pics of behind the cap. As all I was just trying to see how much insulation dropped. If your wall is pulling off an endoscope might help give you a perspective because of the tight spaces. I would think that they are all framed up in only a couple of ways. As mine has the center shelves in the center of the wall and some do not.
__________________
2016 DRV38RSB3
2015 Ram 3500 Regular Cab DRW CTD Asian trans 410 rear
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12-02-2018, 05:34 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
State: Texas
Posts: 311
THOR #9543
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Mine also has the center shelves and the safe on the right side; this is the corner that is flapping in the breeze.
__________________
2017 36RSSB3--2012 F350 KR, LWB, SRW, bilsteins, 1 1/4" anti sway bar, bilstein steering stabilizer, airlift air bags, on board wireless compressor, 295/20 tires at 4080 pounds each, oversized finned aluminum diff and trannie pans, all synthetic fluids; KEM, Tyrant, and PIP tunes with SCT X4 programming, G37 2017 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission and torque convertor, Edge CTS gauge monitoring.
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12-02-2018, 01:49 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
State: Texas
Posts: 678
THOR #3109
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Ryan,
Thanks for the pics around the hitch--had already watched that area for bees. Have not found where they getting in/living, only find them inside trying to get back out.
After having a bird make a nest in the pin box, that was first place I looked, but no bees.
They have circled around the BR slide but never entered anywhere that I can see. The openings you filled in definitely need closing on mine.
Joe
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40QBH
2015 38RSSA--traded
2005 36TK3--retired, but it was a good one
2017 F450 KR
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12-02-2018, 06:27 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 39TKSB3 "Modified"
State: South Dakota
Posts: 1,838
THOR #1661
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For me even if I have NO insulation in my front cap my wife has the closet so packed with closes they are insulating well on their own!!!
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12-02-2018, 07:51 PM
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#15
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Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38RSSA
State: Ontario
Posts: 58
THOR #5001
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When I took my front wall apart I found that the wall is built separately (frame plus plywood) and then attached to the front of the trailer, in 3 sections, from the outside. Several long screws are used to attach the sections to the floor, to the ceiling and to the side walls, as well as to themselves. These screws are put in at a shallow angle, and I suspect that in Clev's case, they missed the mark on one side. You need to get to the back of the wall to add more screws. I took the cedar faced plywood off of the frames, to access the front so that I could glue and screw in solid insulation. So far so good, we're seeing a real difference down here in Texas, both on hot and cold days.
__________________
2015 MS 38RSSA 2009 Ram Dually Diesel 68RFE 4.10
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12-02-2018, 08:29 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: Memphis
State: South Dakota
Posts: 181
THOR #2341
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What are you planning on insulating with? More batten? Or a foam? I've debated removing and rebuilding our closet and spray foam the inside of the front cap. If it gets too thick in places, it's easy to cut away to rebuild the closet wall.
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A&J
2017 Mobile Suite Memphis
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12-02-2018, 10:36 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
Posts: 2,280
THOR #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker
What are you planning on insulating with? More batten? Or a foam? I've debated removing and rebuilding our closet and spray foam the inside of the front cap. If it gets too thick in places, it's easy to cut away to rebuild the closet wall.
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I am using polystyrene beads. As they are light, and do not absorb water. I’m working on my 2nd type as the fist was a MESS. I will get into the details once I have them all in and have some real life time on them.
__________________
2016 DRV38RSB3
2015 Ram 3500 Regular Cab DRW CTD Asian trans 410 rear
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12-02-2018, 11:42 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: Memphis
State: South Dakota
Posts: 181
THOR #2341
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Any thought about using stryofoam peanuts? As they settle you just add more as needed.
__________________
A&J
2017 Mobile Suite Memphis
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12-03-2018, 12:51 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
Posts: 2,280
THOR #1658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker
Any thought about using stryofoam peanuts? As they settle you just add more as needed.
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If I remember correctly I think they absorb water and can break down. You have two types, open and closed cell. I did a lot of reading about this a couple of months ago.
__________________
2016 DRV38RSB3
2015 Ram 3500 Regular Cab DRW CTD Asian trans 410 rear
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12-03-2018, 05:25 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
State: Texas
Posts: 311
THOR #9543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Willy
When I took my front wall apart I found that the wall is built separately (frame plus plywood) and then attached to the front of the trailer, in 3 sections, from the outside. Several long screws are used to attach the sections to the floor, to the ceiling and to the side walls, as well as to themselves. These screws are put in at a shallow angle, and I suspect that in Clev's case, they missed the mark on one side. You need to get to the back of the wall to add more screws. I took the cedar faced plywood off of the frames, to access the front so that I could glue and screw in solid insulation. So far so good, we're seeing a real difference down here in Texas, both on hot and cold days.
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Hi Willy. I attempted to remove the cedar panel, but the safe is in the middle of the wall and that has stopped me. I cannot figure how they have mounted it.
__________________
2017 36RSSB3--2012 F350 KR, LWB, SRW, bilsteins, 1 1/4" anti sway bar, bilstein steering stabilizer, airlift air bags, on board wireless compressor, 295/20 tires at 4080 pounds each, oversized finned aluminum diff and trannie pans, all synthetic fluids; KEM, Tyrant, and PIP tunes with SCT X4 programming, G37 2017 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission and torque convertor, Edge CTS gauge monitoring.
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