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Old 07-21-2015, 05:29 AM   #21
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Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
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THOR #1658
[QUOTE=Jeffreys;14714]
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Originally Posted by ontheroad View Post

Hi Folks

We are also doing our build sheet. I was also wondering if one should get the 1000 watt inverter or pay the extra for the 2800 watt inverter for 8 hour drives refrig use only ? It seems to me the 1000 would be enough for refrig only. But, what do I know.
The 1000 watt inverter keeps my fridge cold on 6 plus hour trips when it was 100 degrees. Plus your truck is keeping the batteries charged when driving. I did not opt for the 2800 inverter mainly due to the added weight. Plus we do not no dock as we stay places monthly. So I am plugged in all the time unless I am in transit.

We love the power steps!!! They seem a little more solid over the stock steps.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:14 PM   #22
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Brand: DRV
Model: 43' MS Atlanta
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I am on the fence about whether to add the Cheap Heat to your 2016 Atlanta build. On the one hand, it would be nice to not have to fool with propane. {We are getting the electric cooktop.} If we went with the Cheap Heat, the only thing it would be used for is the water heater when we are not on electricity. We do zero boon docking. On the other hand, it is about $1300 installed, It would take a long time to go through $1300 in propane.

Don't know......

Joe
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:33 AM   #23
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I am on the fence about whether to add the Cheap Heat to your 2016 Atlanta build. On the one hand, it would be nice to not have to fool with propane. {We are getting the electric cooktop.} If we went with the Cheap Heat, the only thing it would be used for is the water heater when we are not on electricity. We do zero boon docking. On the other hand, it is about $1300 installed, It would take a long time to go through $1300 in propane.

Don't know......

Joe
There is a point in life when you want something because it's convenient. That's where I am and it's nice to get what you want.
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:44 AM   #24
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Model: Memphis
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I think on the cheap heat issue, I've decided to put the heat pads on the tanks and piping, and stay with the regular furnace. With the fireplace in our Carrilite we've been comfortable down to the high 20's and then kick on the furnace anyway. We might go with the Canadian pack with the 2 30k's instead of the 1 40k.
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:13 PM   #25
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There is a point in life when you want something because it's convenient. That's where I am and it's nice to get what you want.
You are correct. This will probably be our last RV and we definitely want to get it right with everything we want on it. I guess I am just not sure that the Cheap Heat is something I want right now. According to what I have read, it can be added at anytime.

Joe
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:49 PM   #26
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1. the fewer holes in the roof and sides the better. Anytime you put a hole in the roof or side wall, it becomes a potential source of leaking. The more holes, the more potential leaks, and the more potential the installers do not seal something correctly. So things like vents, skylights, speakers and TVs in the side walls, and the like - if they are build options, are better left off.

I hate the sky light in the shower too, mostly because of heat and A/C loss but it's there for two good reasons, to help cut down on mold growth and to light up shower stall
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:11 AM   #27
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1. the fewer holes in the roof and sides the better. Anytime you put a hole in the roof or side wall, it becomes a potential source of leaking. The more holes, the more potential leaks, and the more potential the installers do not seal something correctly. So things like vents, skylights, speakers and TVs in the side walls, and the like - if they are build options, are better left off.

I hate the sky light in the shower too, mostly because of heat and A/C loss but it's there for two good reasons, to help cut down on mold growth and to light up shower stall
While I have never had mold growth in my shower so I do not know about this, but on our 2016 Atlanta build, we are leaving out the skylight and having two LED puck lights installed in place of it. Bingo, that takes care of the loss of natural light. I see this as a win/win. No skylight to lose a/c or allow heat in, no opening for water to intrude from the roof, still have light in the shower.

We placed one of those silver insulated heat reflectors over the opening of our skylight on the inside not long after we got it. Now after nearly 4 years it is still in place. I always check it, but this will be one less thing to worry about on the new rig.

Joe
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:08 AM   #28
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You are correct. This will probably be our last RV and we definitely want to get it right with everything we want on it. I guess I am just not sure that the Cheap Heat is something I want right now. According to what I have read, it can be added at anytime.

Joe
This is true since it's not a factory option.
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:12 AM   #29
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We have 7 lights in the bathroom two of them are in the shower and we do have the skylight.

Holes in the roof, who cares! Just make sure they are properly caulked.
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Old 07-23-2015, 03:54 PM   #30
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it's there for two good reasons, to help cut down on mold growth and to light up shower stall
In some cases the sky light also adds needed height for tall people. Not an issue for me but I have talked to people that wish the sky light was higher.
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:53 PM   #31
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Model: 39dbrs3
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I had cheap heat installed. We are in our unit 11.5 months a year. The fact that I don't have to guess when I'll run out of propane is what helped make my decision. I have small dogs (Japanese Chin), and used to worry that the propane could run out while I was at work. Now, I cam just run on electric and have peace of mind. Plus, I don't have ugly space heaters all around- I always worry about them starting a fire.
I don't think you'd regret at least having the option. 1300 is not a big deal in the cost of the rig.
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Old 08-03-2015, 02:24 PM   #32
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Brand: DRV
Model: 41RSSB4
State: Wyoming
Posts: 173
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We just brought home our 41RSSB4 last week and here are my thoughts after a few days living in it.

We put the heat pump in our living room A/C and are happy with the decision. It's nice putting the temperature in AUTO and having the heat pump kick on automatically on those cold Wyoming summer mornings. It does make a bit more noise than I thought it would though.

If you want awning LEDS, make sure you order them. My salesman told me a lot of things came standard that do not, otherwise we would have ordered awning lights, put the elite lighting in the ceiling, and added numerous LEDs elsewhere throughout the coach. More in the cabinets, the basement, and the bottom of the closet, just to name a few.

We would also like to put an air-tank somewhere to increase compressed air capacity with those little high-pressure low-volume pumps, I just haven't decided where yet. Would've been nice to simply ask the factory to do it.

Definitely get the sliding storage tray. We bought a bunch of large plastic storage containers and being able to pull out the tray to access the stuff in the middle is fantastic. It is also nice to pull the tray out the door side for easy access to the plumbing and filter without needing to unload everything.

You'll most likely want the 2" risers on the suspension. We have a 2015 Ram 4X4 dually and even with the risers, we aren't able to adjust the hitch (B&W 3600) and pinbox (MorRyde) enough to get everything perfectly level. I've also seen somewhere where the customer requested that DRV take the square tubing all the way down the frame, effectively giving them a 17" frame. Wish I would've thought of that...

The MorRyde suspension and pinbox combo is excellent. Just get it.

Good luck!
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Old 08-04-2015, 01:09 AM   #33
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Model: Memphis
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Thanks JBurg! I'll add the awning lights, thought those were standard as well. I've had a sliding tray before because it came with the rig. That particular one wasted a lot of space in the basement. I think its a matter of how much space is used efficiently and how much crap you carry. We're into our 3rd yr full timing and have pared down the extras and thought's we needed. We don't need the 2" riser for our truck. We have a 610 Volvo semi converted with a hauler bed, so the lower the RV can be the better. Having the IS, MorRyde pin, and an Trailer Saver air hitch makes our current RV float down the road. Hope the DRV will as well.
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Old 08-04-2015, 03:19 AM   #34
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Model: 41RSSB4
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Glad I could help!

That will be an awesome setup.

And you won't be disappointed with the MorRyde options. I can barely tell ours is back there. Until we hit a big hill, of course.
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:00 AM   #35
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Model: 38RSSA
State: Georgia
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Glad I could help!

That will be an awesome setup.

And you won't be disappointed with the MorRyde options. I can barely tell ours is back there. Until we hit a big hill, of course.
That is one thing that Walker never notices... I saw his flamed out Volvo for the first time at a Walmart parking lot in TN during the ECR. He has a BIG pickup truck....
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:27 AM   #36
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That is one thing that Walker never notices... I saw his flamed out Volvo for the first time at a Walmart parking lot in TN during the ECR. He has a BIG pickup truck....
It's only a lil ole 6 cyl....
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:34 AM   #37
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Model: Memphis
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Problem we have found is that DRV is very $$proud$$ of the FullHouse JX450 design. There is something like a $28-35000 increase in the base price of the unit compared to any of the other 44' units. Price a Elite series 38RSSA and add about 30k to it. It may not happen this year, we'll sit and wait if we have to till the spring shows. As I told several dealers, We don't "Need" the FullHouse, I can stretch the truck and carry the Smart on the bed without any issue and much cheaper. We are happy with our Carrilite and have no issues to fix or deal with. But if you would like to sell a new unit, make the numbers happen...
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Old 08-05-2015, 01:33 PM   #38
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Brand: DRV
Model: 41RSSB4
State: Wyoming
Posts: 173
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I haven't seen their toy hauler in person, but boy are those nice units. My dealer was telling me he tries to persuade people towards other manufacturers if they're dead-set on a toy hauler, as the DRV units are incredibly heavy. I believe him, but don't have any real information to go off of... Any idea what the gross is of those things?
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Old 08-05-2015, 03:44 PM   #39
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JBurg,

The one Walker is looking at is basically our 38RSSA with a garage added to the rear. Ours is a twin axle, the toy hauler is a triple. The gross on a 38RSSA Elite is 21K pounds. I would think the toy hauler would be somewhere in the range of 25K or 26K at a minimum if not more. Either way, his little 6 cyl pickup might struggle a wee bit pulling it but I think he can manage...
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:31 PM   #40
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Brand: DRV
Model: Memphis
State: South Dakota
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From seeing 2 of the yellow stickers concerning weights, 25000 seems to be the gross. But in DRV fashion I asked how accurate that was, and the reply came back as "We don't know, the RV has 3- 8000lb axles and we assume 20-25% on the pin".
So the gross weight is 24000axles + 6000 pin?
I'll know if there's 24k behind me, and I might notice a little better if its 30k, might have to move over to the middle lane going over the Smokies...
Actually, our Carrilite is at 19k with 4800 on the pin and it is noticeable on a long uphill grade. You can hear the turbo start to sing!
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