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Old 11-23-2022, 10:10 AM   #1
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Blowing out water lines for storage

I'm getting ready to blow the water lines for winter storage. Can't remember, do I open all the faucets and the low point drain lines? Or close the faucets and open the low point lines?

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Old 11-23-2022, 11:32 AM   #2
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Open everything and drain the system first. Close everything, apply air, and open every faucet or drain opening one at a time. Go back and do it again until you donít get any water out.
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Old 11-23-2022, 02:39 PM   #3
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Open everything and drain the system first. Close everything, apply air, and open every faucet or drain opening one at a time. Go back and do it again until you donít get any water out.
After seeing the prices on antifreeze , I may go to this system, then add antifreeze :-) What PSI do you use for blowing out the lines?
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Old 11-23-2022, 02:47 PM   #4
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After seeing the prices on antifreeze , I may go to this system, then add antifreeze :-) What PSI do you use for blowing out the lines?
Same as water pressure. Donít forget ice maker and black tank flush.
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Old 11-23-2022, 03:17 PM   #5
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After seeing the prices on antifreeze , I may go to this system, then add antifreeze :-) What PSI do you use for blowing out the lines?
I used 40-45 psi. Start blowing the faucet furthest away & work your way back.
When finished blowing them out I opened the low point drains & left them & all the faucets open. Then poured about a quart of anti freeze in the toilet bowl & the rest of a gallon down all drains.
As mentioned don't forget the ice maker & washing machine lines if equipped.
Back 40+ years ago with 1st rv I made the mistake of pouring the antifreeze into the FW tank, never done that again. The problem is you'll only retrieve maybe 1/2 of what you poured in depending where the suction pickup is in the tank. Secondly there will always be a couple gallons or more of water left in the tank regardless of how long you let it drain therefore whatever AF you pour in is going to be diluted possibly to the point of being useless. Then getting it out of the FW tank, it requires lots of rinsing to get it out without leaving a taste, no it won't hurt you, but it doesn't taste very good & it works a bit like the juice you drink before a colonoscopy.
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Old 11-23-2022, 03:18 PM   #6
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After seeing the prices on antifreeze , I may go to this system, then add antifreeze :-) What PSI do you use for blowing out the lines?
I use 45 PSI.

Don't forget washing machine, hot water relief valve, and fresh water pump. I use a wet and dry vac on the fresh water pump and lines.
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Old 11-23-2022, 08:44 PM   #7
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I use 45 PSI.

Don't forget washing machine, hot water relief valve, and fresh water pump. I use a wet and dry vac on the fresh water pump and lines.
Also don't forget outdoor shower.

I use antifreeze in drain traps, it only takes a little to make sure they don't freeze up. Gallon lasts years.

I also find winter is a good time to put some toilet seal conditioner in the bowl,
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Old 11-23-2022, 09:15 PM   #8
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I use 45 PSI.

Don't forget washing machine, hot water relief valve, and fresh water pump. I use a wet and dry vac on the fresh water pump and lines.
Thanks, Mike and others! I have an AF pickup line on my pump which I still intend to use, but will blow most of the water out first. (And my little 22E isn't blessed with an ice maker or washing machine...LOL!)

Of course my usual means of winterizing is driving hard towards Florida and getting someplace for the first night where it stays above freezing
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Old 11-23-2022, 11:00 PM   #9
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If you use a compressor with a tank please use a filter. Tanks are rusty nasty and gross inside!
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Old 11-23-2022, 11:44 PM   #10
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If you use a compressor with a tank please use a filter. Tanks are rusty nasty and gross inside!
If itís been neglected and not drained daily.
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Old 11-30-2022, 09:15 PM   #11
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We used to blow out the lines but found that it's easier when leaving from our last trip for the winter, open the low point, drain the fresh water. Open all the faucets and the trip home will jiggle out the water. Just pour the antifreeze into the drains.
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Old 12-01-2022, 12:07 PM   #12
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We used to blow out the lines but found that it's easier when leaving from our last trip for the winter, open the low point, drain the fresh water. Open all the faucets and the trip home will jiggle out the water. Just pour the antifreeze into the drains.
That's an interesting idea, a bit of a bummer if you need to use the privy though.. perhaps keep a couple gallons of water in jugs just in case?
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Old 12-01-2022, 02:46 PM   #13
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Will just blowing out the lines with air clear the water pump of water?
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Old 12-01-2022, 03:00 PM   #14
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Will just blowing out the lines with air clear the water pump of water?
No, the air is applied to the discharge side so no flow back through the pump and no displacement of water on the suction side lines.
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Old 12-01-2022, 06:19 PM   #15
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Thanks.
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Old 01-17-2023, 02:25 AM   #16
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Thanks, Mike and others! I have an AF pickup line on my pump which I still intend to use, but will blow most of the water out first. (And my little 22E isn't blessed with an ice maker or washing machine...LOL!)

Of course my usual means of winterizing is driving hard towards Florida and getting someplace for the first night where it stays above freezing
I like your method of winterizing... Drive south...
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Old 01-23-2023, 04:01 AM   #17
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After seeing the prices on antifreeze , I may go to this system, then add antifreeze :-) What PSI do you use for blowing out the lines?
The price of 2 gallons RV/Marine antifreeze vs blowing apart any of the lines?
You do what makes you feel most comfortable about.

For the record, the air would need to be regulated to not blow apart any fittings, and I would open closest faucet in line first as I progress through the entire system.

For me, 2 gallons and using the water pump and service line provided is easiest.
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Old 01-24-2023, 08:28 PM   #18
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The price of 2 gallons RV/Marine antifreeze vs blowing apart any of the lines?
You do what makes you feel most comfortable about.

For the record, the air would need to be regulated to not blow apart any fittings, and I would open closest faucet in line first as I progress through the entire system.

For me, 2 gallons and using the water pump and service line provided is easiest.

Me too. Blowing out doesnít always get water out of the pump. Most times itís ok because enough drains out of it when you drain the lines but not always. I donít drain the lines as sometimes the pump will lose its prime and be a bit of a hassle getting it to suck up the antifreeze. Just start from a normal state and pump a couple of gallons. Easy peasy. 15-20 minutes and under $10.
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Old 01-24-2023, 10:57 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 10scDust View Post
The price of 2 gallons RV/Marine antifreeze vs blowing apart any of the lines?
You do what makes you feel most comfortable about.

For the record, the air would need to be regulated to not blow apart any fittings, and I would open closest faucet in line first as I progress through the entire system.

For me, 2 gallons and using the water pump and service line provided is easiest.
Most decent air compressors have a regulator and most folks that have an air compressor are smart enough to know how to regulate the pressure.

I always blow the system out even if I am going to use antifreeze.
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Old 01-25-2023, 01:15 AM   #20
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Most decent air compressors have a regulator and most folks that have an air compressor are smart enough to know how to regulate the pressure.

I always blow the system out even if I am going to use antifreeze.
Magic words right there. I have always had mental block that if drain lines and blow for added protection, why on earth do you need the antifreeze but if antifreeze is used after proper blowout, you do have a 3rd level of protection.

Since I winterize / dewinterize on average 4 times per year, I have no time to waste with antifreeze and the subsequent sanitizing required afterwards. Never thought about the cost factor; so I may be saving $40/year by NOT using antifreeze.

FWIW, I do pour antifreeze in P traps
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