Rear Jacks, are too low??

[Efotnamvet]

I have a 2023 WS31 Quantum and after looking at the rear levelers which hang very low, I saw that there is at least five to six inches of space above the jacks and I have three open bolt holes, so jack could be raise at least one hole, thinking that would still leave plenty of room at the top, Thinking doing just that, has anyone else raised the rear jacks upward or can confirm the empty bolt holes showing on the bottom of the jack?

[pneumatics]

If they are the Lippert jacks, then the extra bolt holes on the flange of the jack is so they can mount the jacks on just about any unit. On my Class A the unused holes are at the bottom as the top holes bolt to the frame. As long as they don't hit when the rear axle is compressed to the bump stop then you should be fine. Never saw anybody move them.....

[Boatman]

I had to raise the front jacks on my Class A. We we picked it up went thru a parking lot the front jacks hit the speed bumps. Luckily we did not damage them and I raised them up to the upper bolt holes. Easy to do with a floor jack to help raise the jack after taking the bolts out.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Consider that the jack rams have limited travel. Moving the jacks up farther may limit how much "lift" you get. Of course you could always stack something under the foot to assist... but that's a definite PIA factor.

[BaBa]

Originally Posted by Efotnamvet

I have a 2023 WS31 Quantum and after looking at the rear levelers which hang very low, I saw that there is at least five to six inches of space above the jacks and I have three open bolt holes, so jack could be raise at least one hole, thinking that would still leave plenty of room at the top, Thinking doing just that, has anyone else raised the rear jacks upward or can confirm the empty bolt holes showing on the bottom of the jack?

Raised our Four Winds 31W rear jacks at least one set of bolt holes (may have been two, can't remember) for more ground clearance on speedbumps, driveways, ramps, etc. Make sure you properly re-torque the bolts for safety's sake.

To equalize jackshaft stroke (front to back) when setting up camp, we use two stacked 1" thick interlocking leveling pads under the rear jacks and one pad under the fronts.

I've never been able to get the Lippert auto leveler system to work properly, it consistently lifts the front wheels off the ground even on an a level pad. As such, I just set the jacks up manually. TIP if you manually level: always put the front set down first and then the rear set. This will help keep your front wheels on the ground plus maintain a reasonable height for that first step in/out of the coach.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by BaBa

Raised our Four Winds 31W rear jacks at least one set of bolt holes (may have been two, can't remember) for more ground clearance on speedbumps, driveways, ramps, etc. Make sure you properly re-torque the bolts for safety's sake.

To equalize jackshaft stroke (front to back) when setting up camp, we use two stacked 1" thick interlocking leveling pads under the rear jacks and one pad under the fronts.

I've never been able to get the Lippert auto leveler system to work properly, it consistently lifts the front wheels off the ground even on an a level pad. As such, I just set the jacks up manually. TIP if you manually level: always put the front set down first and then the rear set. This will help keep your front wheels on the ground plus maintain a reasonable height for that first step in/out of the coach.

Not quite understanding how which jacks you lower first makes a difference in the coach height when level. Level is level... if the coach is pointing downhill, the front is going to be higher.

I always set the parking brake and chock the wheels first. Then I drop the front jacks to solid contact... followed by the rear jacks. Then I raise whatever is needed to level.

I carry 1 foot square stall mat pads and place at least one under each foot... more if extra lift is needed - so same principle you described.

[JimC]

I have Bigfoot jacks but the information I give about raising/lowering jacks is universal..
I have both raised my front jacks and lowered my rear jacks. There are some engineering/practicality rules governing both.

Front: Since most front jacks are behind the front wheels lengthwise, as has previously mentioned they should be high enough to handle speed bumps. or potholes in pavement the front wheels could drop into. Otherwise, they should be as low as possible.

Rear: There is an engineering rule about the rear jack height. Take a sturdy straight bar, rule, angle metal, shovel handle, etc., long enough to reach from the back of the rear tire tread on the ground and angle it upwards to the back bumper, trailer hitch, or lowest point at the rear of the vehicle/trailer. The front of the jack pads should hang no lower than the line of the angled piece. That is to account for the clearance if you went over a drainage dip, curb exit or any similar situation where your rear tires might be lower to the surface than the rear bumper or hitch.

Those things said, I would have both front and rear as low as possible to avoid having to stack blocks any higher than necessary, which is inherently less safe. My drive is an example: With the rear downhill on the drive, I have to use 2-2x8x8 blocks under each rear jack to achieve level. My jack height meets the rule above.

Hope this helps,
JC

[BuzzDoc]

I’ve found that if I level side to side first then what is left is fro to back and it seems it takes fewer tries than front to back first. Also seems to teduce the number of times my wheels leave the ground. Windsport 34F