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Old 12-09-2019, 12:30 PM   #21
Thor Palazzo 33.3 diesel
 
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Palazzo 33.3 34'bunkhouse
State: Georgia
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THOR #4735
and, as for the 'fresh water tank'....BULK water takes even LONGER at much lower than freezing temps to ever get to any place that you should then be concerned about, if at all. I would not drain the whole fresh water tank simply because of some freezing temps, even if over several days. Don't fret it.


And remember that, most likely, your Class A is like most all others - all of your water lines and holding tanks are contained WITHIN the RV, not exposed to the elements, wind, or direct temperatures from outside.
Other RVs, though, like my son's camper, is a different story. His holding tanks are all under the trailer's flooring, in the direct temperature and elements. Even his holding tank drains are all exposed. I used a 'construction bag' from HD to craft a 'heating tent' under his trailer to keep the extreme lows from potentially creating any issues since he is parked for the winter and living in the trailer while at UAH for Aerospace engineering in Huntsville, very north Alabama.
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Old 12-09-2019, 01:18 PM   #22
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Brand: Still Looking
Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
State: Texas
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THOR #13058
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Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
hhmmmmmm.... it seems you should just keep your water heater ON all winter....hot water CAN NOT FREEZE!

Simple... don't fret it. Hot water in the tank is actually your BEST option, not the opposite. If you are plugged in, it's a no brainer.

Also, since water does not freeze until WELL BELOW 32degrees for many hours, especially for water lines WITHIN your RV, you don't need to over worry about the temperatures and your 'new' RV. It's quite possible in your area that you'll not need to worry about 'winterizing' at all.

Are you sure if the hot water meets 27 degrees it won't freeze Years ago in college someone told me a bottle of Jack cannot freeze. I had to stick it into a freezer to find out, but we drank the bottle so I never found out

My original plan was to set thermostat for furnace to 45, open cabinet doors and leave water heater on. But I had to read the owner's manual. I am just trying to do all the book says in part because I am fishing for something to be wrong or to not work. (knock on wood) This coach has worked marvelous to this point 5 nights and 1500 miles.

I don't need shore power for the furnace or the heater. I am actually plugged up now, but I have 50 amp breaker off. I am trying to see how long I could be standalone (boondocking) before having a problem. I have 1000 watt inverter which dam near runs everything. The fridge is off and door cracked open for air circulation.

Asa I learn more I may need to just turn 50 amp breaker back on and just let it rip. I just don't want to put undue hours on anything not needed
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Safe T Plus EC-30 AGS
Nighthawk X4 AC2200 WiFi EX7300; H/W Heater & Chassis Disconnect Switches; Southwire Surge Guard 44270
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Old 12-09-2019, 01:30 PM   #23
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Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
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THOR #13058
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
and, as for the 'fresh water tank'....BULK water takes even LONGER at much lower than freezing temps to ever get to any place that you should then be concerned about, if at all. I would not drain the whole fresh water tank simply because of some freezing temps, even if over several days. Don't fret it.


And remember that, most likely, your Class A is like most all others - all of your water lines and holding tanks are contained WITHIN the RV, not exposed to the elements, wind, or direct temperatures from outside.
Other RVs, though, like my son's camper, is a different story. His holding tanks are all under the trailer's flooring, in the direct temperature and elements. Even his holding tank drains are all exposed. I used a 'construction bag' from HD to craft a 'heating tent' under his trailer to keep the extreme lows from potentially creating any issues since he is parked for the winter and living in the trailer while at UAH for Aerospace engineering in Huntsville, very north Alabama.
Yes none of my tanks can be seen from bottom short the gas tank. The water tank is right under bed and you can see it well if you open the wooden hatch. I can even verify my level gauge is working properly for it

However, the Shurflo pump is in the Wet bay. It too is enclosed but is an outside wall. If I had designed the coach, I would have added a very small electric compartment heater with thermostat to auto come on at 40 degrees. I had those on my older boats before they redesigned my new one where water no longer sits in the blocks when not running.

What I may do just thinking about this is to move one of my La Crosse temperature sensors inside the wet bay. I can then monitor the temperatures inside that bay relative to outside ambient temperatures. If I get really nervous another thing I use to do with my boat was to drop a 100 watt heat lamp into the engine compartment. I have had boats 30 years and never had a freeze problem. But this is my first RV so I am learning as I go.
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2019 Sunstar 29VE w/Magellan Tent
Safe T Plus EC-30 AGS
Nighthawk X4 AC2200 WiFi EX7300; H/W Heater & Chassis Disconnect Switches; Southwire Surge Guard 44270
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Old 12-09-2019, 01:34 PM   #24
Thor Palazzo 33.3 diesel
 
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Palazzo 33.3 34'bunkhouse
State: Georgia
Posts: 2,398
THOR #4735
We all see your 'new owner' concerns, but like your home, you don't 'cut off all power' just because you are going away for the weekend. Everything electrical LIKES to have electricity, not the other way around. Having power ON hurts nothing, and does not inhibit the long-term performance... it might be just the opposite.
You can have power, and yet still turn your 120v fridge 'off', or turn it down where it doesn't come on.
You can have power, and continue to allow you battery Charger to do it's job, keep the House Batteries maintained, which they appreciate.
You can have power, and yet turn your Inverter OFF, if you wish, but the power continues to flow thru, since you have shore power. The only difference is that the Inverter will not be on to provide power if shore power is lost.

Many, many RVrs and Motorhome owners across this country have NEVER been without shore power, they are ALWAYS plugged in. Whether you are living in the RV, or just storing it over the winter months, having POWER will make no long-term negative impact.
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Old 12-09-2019, 01:35 PM   #25
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THOR #13058
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Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
Borrow some of your wife's red nail polish and paint the switch, town too if you have the time!!! I have several switches and breakers painted red to remind me “do I really want to use this and why”.
I think the yellow post it has got the attention for everyone here. It is really for me In fact I am wanting to put something similar on the steering wheel to remind me to check to verify I have unplugged the 50 amp shore power before pulling out. I pulled it out to take to a dump station Saturday and I had forgot but my wife noticed before I got into the coach. Best 1st mate ever.
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Old 12-09-2019, 01:55 PM   #26
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Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 4,993
THOR #7035
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
I think the yellow post it has got the attention for everyone here. It is really for me In fact I am wanting to put something similar on the steering wheel to remind me to check to verify I have unplugged the 50 amp shore power before pulling out. I pulled it out to take to a dump station Saturday and I had forgot but my wife noticed before I got into the coach. Best 1st mate ever.
Here's a tip that I use for those things I might forget before moving the coach; may even work for you water heater switch.

Get some of those plastic hanging badge pouches like this:



Make up cards for each item of concern. Make one side RED and one side GREEN. An example would be:

Antenna UP

Antenna DOWN

When you setup camp hang the cards in front of the steering wheel, turn them to indicate the status of the items.

When breaking camp remove each card that has been verified green (or leave them hanging). When you have a full green board you are good to go.
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Old 12-10-2019, 11:14 PM   #27
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Brand: Still Looking
Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
State: Texas
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THOR #13058
Ok, here is how I resolved this.

I learned that by disconnecting the ground wire (black) at the solenoid, it stops the circuit and render the switch in the coach useless. I tested both ways. If you turn heater switch on with the ground disconnected; the red pilot light stays on as warning, but heater never fires up.

When all was done, I then turned off the heater bypass, reconnected the ground wire and allowed the heater tank to fill. It took less than 15 minutes to get hot water!!!. It is 40 degrees in Dallas right now; so I will leave the heater on to see how cold it may get. I also have furnace on and set for 45 degrees for the other waterlines.

Experiment last night showed that on average my wet bay is about 5 degrees warmer than outside temperature. It got down to 36 degrees last night but the lowest I got in wet bay compartment was 41.
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2019 Sunstar 29VE w/Magellan Tent
Safe T Plus EC-30 AGS
Nighthawk X4 AC2200 WiFi EX7300; H/W Heater & Chassis Disconnect Switches; Southwire Surge Guard 44270
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Old 12-13-2019, 10:06 PM   #28
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Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
State: Texas
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THOR #13058
My 1st Mod: Water Heater Lockout Switch

It started with a will and it has completed with a way. Today, I have added a switch to the ground circuit to my Suburban Gas Water Heater. See On/Off switch to the left. It works effortless.

In future when I drain my water heater, I will flip the switch to off. Once done the switch inside the coach is effectively disabled. If the switch in the coach is On and it should not be; I get a red pilot light warning.
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2019 Sunstar 29VE w/Magellan Tent
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Old 12-13-2019, 10:38 PM   #29
I Think We're Lost!
 
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Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 16,071
THOR #8860
Glad to hear that you found a way to beat this dilemma!
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