I was not implying the battery in the diagram represented high current draw (not power draw as you stated; current and power are two different things). Also, wire size and fuse size is based on current draw, not the other way around.
Okay, let’s say we change the word “battery” in the diagram to “30 amp fuse.” Disconnect the wire going to the switch from the 30 amp fuse. Then draw another fuse and call it “5 amp fuse.” Connect the switch wire you disconnected from the 30 amp fuse to the 5 amp fuse. Now we have 2 separate circuits. Troubleshoot the one that’s blowing the fuse first. BTW...the LP/CO detectors might be tied into the same 5 amp circuit.
That’s all I was suggesting, nothing more. Impossible to tell without the correct wiring diagram, which may also show the lockout system tied in as well. Just saying. I’d start with continuity checks to ground in all the suspected areas/components with and without the engine running if that’s what activates the lockout.
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