Quote:
Originally Posted by Harmsy
We’re in southern AZ after a good relatively trouble-free journey…the sunny climes have been wonderful to relax in during the day it has been very cold at night as Ducksface predicted…our previous experience of staying out on cold nights came in handy…it got down to mid twenty’s at night…
Being in a Covid free environment is good…as good as being home…but these Arizonans are pushing the envelope with sooo many not wearing masks…
Thanks to all the correspondents for your support…here’
s an update…
1) Judge, the solar panel fuse has not been found as yet…I have done some logical searching and even asked THOR where they put the damn thing…they can’t tell me…I found the orange wire getting close to the house batteries but it does not appear at the batteries…last sighting was in the forward most passenger storage box…have yet to get into the harness shielding to expose even more wiring…btw, the strapping of ‘excess’ wiring (for longer coaches I guess) under the MH behind the battery box was terrible…cable ties just broke off in my hand…I am only doing a few days of dry camping so it’s not the most urgent issue…
2) Btw, how do you guys all maintain the chassis battery while you are stationary for a week or month?
3) The water pump switch needs a v2.15 update by Firefly, them saying “assuming that this is not the original water pump. It appears as though the G8 is amping out before the water pump turns itself off when reaching full pressure. The output current was raised in v2.2 for this reason. Because several pumps were change to aftermarket/larger pumps, the output current was raised again in v2.15..."
I have no idea whether the water pump has been replaced with an aftermarket…I’ll let my dealer sought that out when I get home in March…the cost of the software update is $75 or a new panel with the software in it at $827!
4) The Tankless water heater worked well until we got to Southern California…it sprang a pin hole leak in the copper…I can see it and hear it…local repairer say that it’s a faulty sweat joint and will only replace it and not repair it…I am now in their hands to get the part and replace it quickly and process it thru my ESP with FESC…fingers crossed that this works out…
5) I had a new awning fitted because the LED lighting was out…it was quiet but now it yelps when being closed…any tips for lubing its joints and swivels?...WD40 helped for the short term but it doesn’t last…
All for now, best for 2021!.
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Let me answer your questions in order.....
1. Solar Controller Fuse - Per the schematic I posted, there should be a 10-gauge orange wire needs to connect to the positive terminal of one of the house batteries. There should actiually be three wires (that aren't battery cables) attached to one of the positive terminals. The other two are a yellow 14-guage wire for the auxiliary start and a red 12-gauge wires for the powered steps. If you cannot find three small wires connected to one of the posts of positive posts to the house batteries, your coach could be wired incorrectly (somewhat unlikely nut possible). In my coach i can take my dinnette seat top off to gain access to the back of the solar controller. You should try to gain access to yours to see if the fuse is located there.
2. Maintaining Chassis Battery- If you are plugged into shore power (run the generator) or have solar power, the coach will charge the chassis batteries via the BIM160 (Battery Isolation Manager).
3. FireFly Multiplex System - If your coach is still under warranty, you should not be paying a dime for any FireFly firmware updates. My SV34 has the water pump under the bed. It is not hard to gain access to it to see the model. Mine is a ShurFlow 4008. In ancy case, you want your dealer or the Thor Service Center to deal with this issue because you should not have to pay to address it.
4. Water Tank Leak - Again, if your coach is under warranty, youc an e-mail Thor Warranty Customer Support and explain what happened and you had to have the issue addressed by a third party. They will most likely ask for a copy of the repair invoice and then send you a check for the repair. On my last coach I had an issue with the levelers after driving 6 hours from the dealer for another repair. I determined it was the pressure sensor, ordered one from Amazon for $110 and wrote Thor about it. They had me return the faulity party and receipt and they sent me a check. In the end it was cheaper than having it fixed at a dealer. Your repair will be less expensive than the cost of $500 for the unit opplus labor.
5. Anwing Hydraulic Arm Lubrication - I do not recommend WD40. You want a dry PTFE lubucant like this one. I spray some on a paper towel and then wipe down the hydraulic piston and then spray it on all of the joints. Solves the problem perfectly. You can also use this lube for the slide out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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