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Old 08-01-2018, 07:24 PM   #21
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I don't think the class C's with the standard Ford dash and engine covers have this problem, do they? Isn't most of this caused by an RV manufacturer trying to build a truck cab with the gas A's?
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:27 PM   #22
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I looked under there and thought to myself, "Im good."
So did I originally (last year) but someone else did theirs and commented on how much of a difference it made so I reconsidered and sucked it up. It's really quiet now. If I was smart I would have taken sound measurements before, after the doghouse, and after the cab; but I didn't think that far ahead. All I can say now is that it is slightly louder than a car going down the road at 65 mph and unless you are accelerating you can't even hear the engine. I was very pleased with the results of the effort and 2 more sheets of DynaMat. And I'm not a young or skinny guy.
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:29 PM   #23
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I don't think the class C's with the standard Ford dash and engine covers have this problem, do they? Isn't most of this caused by an RV manufacturer trying to build a truck cab with the gas A's?
Yep: Class A for other than the doghouse. Your doghouse may be good as well.
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Old 08-01-2018, 10:39 PM   #24
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I think Class C doghouse and passenger floor heat is a common problem

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Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton View Post
I don't think the class C's with the standard Ford dash and engine covers have this problem, do they? Isn't most of this caused by an RV manufacturer trying to build a truck cab with the gas A's?
My coach is a Class C. From other forums I have read Ford puts very little heat or sound deadening from the factory on the Class C or class A chassis that they sell to RV manufacturers.

Check out this YouTube video where a wife is complaining about how hot her feet would get from her family's Class C until her husband added some extra shielding; it is a common problem.

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Old 08-02-2018, 01:44 AM   #25
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I don't think the class C's with the standard Ford dash and engine covers have this problem, do they? Isn't most of this caused by an RV manufacturer trying to build a truck cab with the gas A's?

I dont think so. Most of the problem with the C class from Ford not insulating very well. I guess really the stripper chassis's are more of a work vehicle to ford so they do the bare minimum to keep the price down. But the coach builders should know this and add a little to make it more bearable IMO
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Old 08-05-2018, 06:45 AM   #26
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Drinks stay nice and cold now!

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I added more of the Frost King duct I insulation to the doghouse. This time I added it to the front and top portions of the doghouse.

This time, my primary goal was to reduce the heat that is making my drinks warm when I am driving; the additional quiet is just a bonus.

Engine noise was a little quieter as I drove to fill up my coach today. However, it was already pretty quiet just from what I had already done by adding insulation to the sides.

I will know how well the additional heat shielding works regarding keeping my drinks cold after I drive up the the steep portions of State highway 24 on Friday; going to Mueller State Park for the weekend.
The extra insulation did its job! I realized that the engine got significantly quieter (even on steep mountain grades) AND my drinks in the console stayed cool!

Mueller State Park is awesome as well! If you live in Southern Colorado, or you plan on visiting, the state, it is definitely worth it!
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:15 PM   #27
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Frost King

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Here are some pictures inside the doghouse. One is just the stock doghouse; one is a shot of the engine bay; and one is a picture of the insulation before I trimmed it.
Looks really nice. How does the FK attach? Adhesive backing or do you have to you use glue/tape?
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:12 PM   #28
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Yes but I have used Dynomat and Fat Mat extensively in my RV and they do dampen much better than Frost King. Each has its purpose and it depends on the overall results you are trying to achieve. I have elimininated ALL heat from the dog house and surround areas with both Dyno and Fat. With the Air con running in cab the dog house is cool to the touch at any given spot. Even after 4 hour + trips its still cool. Im impressed. Sound level have dropped dramatically as well.
Ive read that Dynomat and Fat Mat are only for noise reduction and not to be used for heat reduction
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:38 PM   #29
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Never had an issue...mine is quiet and cool. the F Series has the engine up front where the E Series has a semi-doghouse. Maybe that's the difference.


In that video they are in an E Series with gas engine. I'm sure the catalytic converter is right under her feet.
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Old 08-10-2018, 10:31 PM   #30
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Looks really nice. How does the FK attach? Adhesive backing or do you have to you use glue/tape?
On the sides I just put the FK insulation behind the existing heat shielding and trimmed the excess

For the front, top, and bottom portions I used aluminum tape to attach it.

FYI, I did not use the fiberglass type, I did not want to use a mask or gloves. They also make a type called FV516 that is self adhesive.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:14 PM   #31
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Looks really nice. How does the FK attach? Adhesive backing or do you have to you use glue/tape?

Sticky back, easy to install, used glove - the aluminum will give you paper like cuts if your not careful (ask me how I know). But FK is not as sticky as Dynamat or Fat Mat (I Have used all 3).
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:22 PM   #32
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Ive read that Dynomat and Fat Mat are only for noise reduction and not to be used for heat reduction
Nope, all 3 have an aluminum backing so they all work well for heat. I like to layer them. Dynamat (50 or 80 mill thick) then the 3/4 inch fat mat on top. That will reduce all of the heat and most of the sound.

FK works well (use two or 3 layers to maximize it) if your on a budget but not as well as the others for sound IMO. I have used all 3 of them for years in different rides.

I like FK inside the vehicle (Under carpet etc) since its not as sticky, and the other two under the hood, firewall or foot wells on underside. They hold up great where the FK and fall down if you dont add tape to it as well.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:27 PM   #33
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Sticky back, easy to install, used glove - the aluminum will give you paper like cuts if your not careful (ask me how I know). But FK is not as sticky as Dynamat or Fat Mat (I Have used all 3).
Well I should clarify. There is about 3 (or more) different FK on the market that might work for our application. One has a sticky back. Just roll it out and cut to fit. Two others have either fiberglass or a cotton batting with aluminum backing but you have to use tape to attach those.
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Old 08-11-2018, 09:44 AM   #34
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Well I should clarify. There is about 3 (or more) different FK on the market that might work for our application. One has a sticky back. Just roll it out and cut to fit. Two others have either fiberglass or a cotton batting with aluminum backing but you have to use tape to attach those.
Anyone have a link to the Frost King at Lowes, or the exact name, all I see at my Lowes in pipe insulation, window seals, and covering.
Maybe to far south !
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Old 08-11-2018, 01:23 PM   #35
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I have not figured out how to do "links" yet. Search on Amazon shows several. Here is the discription of the sticky back one.


"Frost King Foam and Foil Insulation Duct Tape, 15' Length x 12" Width, 1/8" Thick"

The also have a non sticky cotton insulation and a fiberglass one. They are thicker (2 inch?).

Go to your local home impovement and look for the long black pipe insulation (Looks like pool noodles). Thats where they are located at home Home Depot. Might find some around the "duct work" area as well.

I hope this helps.
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Old 08-11-2018, 01:33 PM   #36
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I have not figured out how to do "links" yet. Search on Amazon shows several. Here is the discription of the sticky back one.


"Frost King Foam and Foil Insulation Duct Tape, 15' Length x 12" Width, 1/8" Thick"

The also have a non sticky cotton insulation and a fiberglass one. They are thicker (2 inch?).

Go to your local home impovement and look for the long black pipe insulation (Looks like pool noodles). Thats where they are located at home Home Depot. Might find some around the "duct work" area as well.

I hope this helps.
<bracket>url=<link>[bracket>text describing link<bracket>/url<bracket>

Or just copy/paste the link in the post--although Amazon links tend to be long so I usually post them like above
Code:
[ url=http... ]text[ /url ]
(remove the spaces)
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Old 08-11-2018, 04:16 PM   #37
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Yeah I tried to do a link but it was crazy long so I thought I did it wrong. LOL.
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Old 08-11-2018, 08:54 PM   #38
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Hello Folks,

Just drove my brand new vegas 24.1 from Orlando to north Florida. PDI went well and was pleasantly surprised with not having many issues. Fit and finish seemed much better than earlier models.

Primary issue is cooling. First is that my dash AC is blowing ambient air and i expect I will have a few hoops to go through to get that resolved. Missed it on delivery. Wasn't going to hang around to get it fixed anyway. In between wiping the sweat off my face i checked the dog house and man was hit hot hot. First order of business will be to insulate that area. Ill have a few questions as I go along.

How much of the dynamat would you expect I would need to purchase to fully insulate? I am interested in sound deadening as well as heat resistance. I have yet to open the dog house and i am sure i will need some help along the way.

Secondly I now know first hand how deficient the coach cooling is. You folks have been invaluable with your info. I have closed off all vents except the living room vents and was doing just OK expecting more flow and cooling. I have progressed to pulling the AC cover off and experienced an incredible amount of air flow. Outlet temperature hasn't changed much but the increased air flow has made a difference in cooling. That air that is now blowing out hard was going somewhere and it wasn't through the 2 front vents I had open. More investigation tomorrow after reviewing your posts.

Thanks fellow Thor owners
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Old 08-12-2018, 03:04 AM   #39
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Congratulations, Once you get a few kinks worked out you will love your new ride.

I would get the big bulk pack (36 sq foot) Dynamat Xtream ($150 on Amazon) that way you can insulate the dog house and while it off go around the floor (above engine and tranny area) as far as you can. Then go forward towards the fire wall and insulate that as well. I would recommend two or three sheets of Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner 32" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive ($57 each).

And with any leftovers you can insulate under the hood and the underside of the dash from the engine compartment and the firewall. I went crazy and used about twice this amount in the cab/engine/Firewall/floor areas.

I figured I didnt want to leave anything on the table when it came to killing the noise and heat. Im very impressed with my results but it was costy (but well worth it IMO).

Do several searches on this forum for writeups and pictures on Hurricane and Axis/Vegas RV's.
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Old 08-12-2018, 10:28 PM   #40
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Congratulations, Once you get a few kinks worked out you will love your new ride.

I would get the big bulk pack (36 sq foot) Dynamat Xtream ($150 on Amazon) that way you can insulate the dog house and while it off go around the floor (above engine and tranny area) as far as you can. Then go forward towards the fire wall and insulate that as well. I would recommend two or three sheets of Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner 32" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive ($57 each).

And with any leftovers you can insulate under the hood and the underside of the dash from the engine compartment and the firewall. I went crazy and used about twice this amount in the cab/engine/Firewall/floor areas.

I figured I didnt want to leave anything on the table when it came to killing the noise and heat. Im very impressed with my results but it was costy (but well worth it IMO).

Do several searches on this forum for writeups and pictures on Hurricane and Axis/Vegas RV's.
Thanks you sir. On order and will have them in a few days. Also added a new vent for the roof ac, as well as a pillow for the ceiling fan. I plan to blow foam forward of the front vents and then see where i'm at with the cooling. I already have the thermister probe taped to outside of the intake avoiding any cool air blowing and evaluating that change. It seems that their may be some mixing with cool air into the ambient intake and will be sealing that. Time will tell. My thanks to you as well as a few others i see on the various coach cooling threads.

Bill
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