Broken bearing dust covers/bearing caps - Page 4

Cummins12V98 · 08-26-2015, 05:57 PM

Took a 300 mile trip since replacing the original White caps. Waking around yesterday I noticed black streaks on the wheel and the center of the wheel cover was missing. Looked inside and sure enough the White cap was missing!

I did NOT over tighten I just snugged them up. They really are a POS!

Florida · 08-26-2015, 09:30 PM

After getting my clear caps from Kodiak, we have put nearly two thousand miles on our 2015 36'... So far, so good... I torqued them to 19lbs... Hopefully they'll continue to be good...

JBurg · 09-29-2015, 12:14 PM

Finally got around to replacing the old white caps with the clears yesterday. Figured I probably should as we are headed to Moab on Wednesday.

A little background-the unit was delivered with a broken cap on the door side. The dealer pulled a cap from another unit and threw it on mine, and after we fixed the brakes all was well and we went home without issue.

Back to replacing the caps-while swapping everything out I noticed moisture and the signs of contaminated grease on the front hub of the off-door side of the trailer. Doh! So while the white cap that was on there didn't appear to have any issues, at some point it had some issue and I wouldn't have caught it until next year sometime. So I'm going to go ahead and repack all the hubs today. Needed something to do anyway...

Cummins12V98 · 09-29-2015, 10:13 PM

Says on clear cap "Torque To 20-30LB-FT"

JBurg what was wrong with your brakes?

JBurg · 09-29-2015, 11:20 PM

I wonder if Joe used the same calibrated torque wrench that I did. Also known as a pair of channel locks...

As for the brakes, one of the lines had somehow been disconnected, emptying the reservoir somewhere between Indiana and Utah. That was great fun to diagnose...

Update on the contaminated grease situation-

I repacked the front bearing, but couldn't find a suitable tool to remove the back. Any suggestions?

The big thing of concern was the spindle. Upon inspection I noticed discoloration hat has me concerned. I couldn't feel anything, so I'm not sure how much damage has been done, but I'm incredibly disappointed as this thing has only moved once since we got it. I suppose I should be happy I found it before we put more miles on it. Check out the picture and let me know what you think.

Cummins12V98 · 10-04-2015, 10:57 PM

JBurg it's hard to tell from your pic. I am guessing by now you have it all figured out. As long as the bearings and races look good you should be fine.

FYI........When removing the hubcaps to do the third set of caps (clear this time) I noticed there is a metal spring clip that was not fully around the part that snaps onto the lug nuts on the back side of the hub cap. I can see if they are not in the correct position the cap could fall off.

GeorgiaHybrid · 10-05-2015, 03:47 AM

Well, went by the storage lot today to get everything ready for our run to the HDT rally. Popped the hubcaps and, you guessed it, 2 more broken caps. This is getting old.....

I will ask for the clear ones this time but will need to have them sent out 2nd day air as we are leaving Wednesday or Thursday for Hutch. With these two, I have now gone thru 6 of these suckers since January. All of mine were the white ones so I hope that the clear covers last a bit longer....

Cummins12V98 · 10-05-2015, 04:43 AM

All 8 white ones here broken to some degree. It will be interesting to see if the clear are in good shape after our next outing.

JBurg · 10-06-2015, 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

JBurg it's hard to tell from your pic. I am guessing by now you have it all figured out. As long as the bearings and races look good you should be fine.

FYI........When removing the hubcaps to do the third set of caps (clear this time) I noticed there is a metal spring clip that was not fully around the part that snaps onto the lug nuts on the back side of the hub cap. I can see if they are not in the correct position the cap could fall off.

I ended up only having time to repack the one hub, which did provide an opportunity to gather some interesting data. When checking temperatures at our stops, my hub was consistently cooler than the other three, by 20 degrees or so. Pretty happy about that. Guess I'll redo the other ones at the next available opportunity.

GeorgiaHybrid · 10-06-2015, 03:28 AM

I decided to bite the bullet ans ordered up 8 caps directly from Kodiak. paid for 2nd day air so they should be here Wednesday. Didn't want to risk a 2,000 mile round trip without any spares....

JBurg · 10-08-2015, 02:29 PM

Update on the spindle pictured in an earlier post-

I talked with Kodiak today and was told that if I can't feel any damage and if everything slides on properly then I should be fine.

I also asked what their recommendation was to remove the back bearing and seal. The tech said to pry the seal out with a screwdriver, and that I would need to replace the seal after doing so. He did give me the part numbers for the GREASE (not oil) seal (472920 national seal or CR22558 Chicago rawhide) but I was curious if anyone on here had a better idea...

GeorgiaHybrid · 10-08-2015, 02:42 PM

JBurg,

You can use a seal remover, screwdriver or small lady foot prybar to pop the seal out. Anytime you remove a seal, you should replace it with a new one. There are other ways that I use but would get blasted on here for mentioning them...

JBurg · 10-08-2015, 06:33 PM

Thanks for the info. Feel free to pm me your other methods.

Cummins12V98 · 10-09-2015, 05:13 AM

Hey let's not be secret squirrel!

R12 · 10-09-2015, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgiaHybrid

JBurg,

You can use a seal remover, screwdriver or small lady foot prybar to pop the seal out. Anytime you remove a seal, you should replace it with a new one. There are other ways that I use but would get blasted on here for mentioning them...

Then I'll mention my method. I use a brass drift and knock them out from the backside. And before the blasts come it does no damage to the bearing.

GeorgiaHybrid · 10-11-2015, 03:12 AM

I just put pop the bearing out on the NS, put the retaining nut back on (no washer, just the nut) for a few threads, slide the hub down to let the nut contact the back of the bearing and give it a sharp pull straight out. It will leave the back bearing and seal on the spindle and if done right, will never touch the race. Been doing it since the early 70's that way.

JBurg · 10-14-2015, 02:15 AM

GH, your method worked perfectly with the exception that I found the process to be easier when utilizing the washer. Popped that sucker right out with very little effort. DW and I repacked all four assemblies today and bled the brakes (explanation in a new thread about that one.)

Thanks again for the tip.

GeorgiaHybrid · 10-14-2015, 03:52 AM

Glad I could help..... We are at the HDT rally in Hutch and will be showing at least one person with a new DRV that trick. He will also be getting any of my old white caps that are not busted when I replace them with the clear ones before the trip home.

JBurg · 10-14-2015, 11:38 AM

Oh, and you guys might get a kick out of this. Dear wife helped with the entire process. She cleaned all the bearings with brake cleaner while I prepped the hubs, and she even repacked a few. She also reinstalled a couple of the hub assemblies and had them ready for the front bearing while I finished repacking them. Just had to brag a bit.

The dogs only helped a little. They deserve no bragging.

rynosback · 06-13-2017, 04:55 AM

Bump for fulltimer50.

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