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Old 03-07-2018, 02:12 PM   #81
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A simple way to see the effects of cold weather freezing in your unit. I leave a bottle water in sink & storage compartment then put one outside in shade under unit. Not scientific But interesting.
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:52 AM   #82
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Thanks JamieGeek. Very easy to follow.
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Old 10-05-2018, 07:55 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
Unfortunately, it is that time of year again (at least for me). Time to get the unit ready for winter.

Since there are a ton of new Axis/Vegas owners on here since the last thread of this type I figured I'd start a new one. (Most of this is specific to my 24.1 but will probably apply to the other Axis/Vegas floorplans and other RVs as well).

To start out with you'll want to relieve pressure off your water system and remove the water heater's drain plug (on mine its a plastic plug near the bottom left of the unit--a pain to unscrew because its behind a pipe). If you want the water to drain faster you can open the safety valve at top (I usually just remove the plug and leave it out until spring--so far no critters have decided to take up residence in the water heater for the 16 years I've been doing this).

Next you'll want to remove the panel under the passenger side rear bed--on ours its two square head screws and it comes out. Optionally you can remove the cold-air return grate as its easier to get to the water heater bypass valves from there.

After that I open the drain valve for the water tank and close the feed valve (so the water pump doesn't draw water from the tank). These valves are right next to each other right where the waterlines leave the tank. You can tell the feed valve because its hooked to the pipe going to the water pump, and the drain valve because its the one with the right-angle fitting that goes through the floor.

I'm going to steal FW28z's excellent diagram here: (You'll want to configure the valves for the winterized position)

Here you can see my water heater valves on "winterize"--at least the bypass and hot water ones, the cold water valve is below the grey furnace vent pipe.


Next you want to hook up some hose to the "antifreeze injection point": There is a tube sticking up that is capped. Get a fitting to screw in there and some hose--I use clear vinyl so I can see the antifreeze go through it:


It usually only takes about 1.5 gallons of pink stuff to winterize my Axis--I get extra just in case.

Now turn the pump on with the kitchen faucet open slightly (using kitchen because its right next to the pump switch). The idea here is to have a faucet open so the pump can suck up the antifreeze--try it with all the faucets closed you won't get very far LOL.
Once you see the clear line filled and hear the pump slow down because it has some antifreeze in it close the faucet. Now you're ready...
Go around the coach opening up one side (cold) and then the other (hot) until you see pink stuff coming out. Make sure you do every faucet including the outside shower, the shower head, and the toilet. It should be really pink coming out:

You'll probably empty the first gallon during this process. When you hear the pump running with no antifreeze coming out just turn off the pump, replace the bottle with a full one, and repeat the priming like you did with the first bottle.
When all the sinks are done I also go and briefly open up both low point drains (right next to the water tank) and the two water heater bypass valves so that they all get antifreeze going through them.
Lastly I leave the system semi-pressurized (not fully), take the strainer out of the city water hookup, and lightly press on the check valve there to get some antifreeze to come out there. Don't do this with a fully pressurized system because you could damage the check valve. (There was some discussion about me doing this in another thread--some people recommended not to if I'm remembering correctly.)

When I'm all done I pour any remaining antifreeze into each sink, the shower, and the toilet to make sure that there is antifreeze in the traps and the waste tanks (even though there probably is from the winterizing process but, in this case, more is better). In addition this allows me to use up all the antifreeze and recycle the bottles (no real reason to have a 1/2 full bottle of RV antifreeze sitting around).
I can't see this - where is the excellent diagram?

I'm going to steal FW28z's excellent diagram here: (You'll want to configure the valves for the winterized position)
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:10 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by RoseyStapler View Post
I can't see this - where is the excellent diagram?

I'm going to steal FW28z's excellent diagram here: (You'll want to configure the valves for the winterized position)
Yeah they went offline a while ago. I think Ed included them in the Axis/Vegas owner's manual.

See here, page 18:
Link to Ed Felker's Vegas/Axis Manual
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Old 10-13-2018, 12:05 AM   #85
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How do you get your system semi-pressurized?
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Old 10-13-2018, 12:49 AM   #86
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How do you get your system semi-pressurized?
Turn on the pump until it stops, then turn it off. Crack a faucet a little to relieve some of the pressure then close it.
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:24 AM   #87
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thanks
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Old 11-06-2018, 03:31 AM   #88
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Found a 2.5 gallon jug of RV antifreeze at Walmart for under $5 today. It cost less than (2) 1 gallon jugs and made the job easier.
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Old 11-10-2018, 02:59 AM   #89
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Anyone got a picture of the valves for winter mode for the Axis 25.2? I have a diagram the dealership drew out, but I don't think I'm doing it quite right. Thanks!!!
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Old 11-10-2018, 03:49 AM   #90
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Anyone got a picture of the valves for winter mode for the Axis 25.2? I have a diagram the dealership drew out, but I don't think I'm doing it quite right. Thanks!!!
Don't have a 25.2 but its easy to think about it:

When you're winterizing you want to open the valve that goes between the hot and cold lines and close both the individual hot and cold valves.

In the spring or when you want to de-winterize do the opposite: close the valve that goes between the hot and cold lines and open both of the individual hot and cold ones.
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Old 11-10-2018, 01:52 PM   #91
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I get the concept....but it's not clear to me which valve is which. I thought I had it, but apparently not since we just dumped a gallon into the hot water tank...lol
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Old 11-10-2018, 04:27 PM   #92
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I get the concept....but it's not clear to me which valve is which. I thought I had it, but apparently not since we just dumped a gallon into the hot water tank...lol
Well usually the hot water valve is at the top (where the hot water exits the heater), the crossover valve is in the middle, and the cold water valve is at the bottom (where the cold water enters the heater). That doesn't mean yours is the same, however, as they could have put the valves far away from the heater.

In addition, the crossover valve will be the only one with both red and blue pipes going to it (the hot valve will only have red pipes and the cold valve will only have blue pipes).
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Old 11-10-2018, 07:00 PM   #93
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thank you! It's the crossover one that I think I have wrong. I was thinking it was the bottom one. But there is one with both blue and red pipes, so now that makes sense! thank you SOOOO much!
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