Originally Posted by Linda&Tom
This is a quick and easy DIY once you have the board. Just make sure the replacement board has a 'stand' on it to hold it above the mounting plate or you'll be back here in 1 year's time. You may have to bend a resistor in the back to get it to fit but you definitely want that board up off the floor.
Here is the info I gathered when mine went south:
Input BTU/HR: 30,000
Output BTU/HR: 22,800
Manifold Pressure: 10.2"
Orifice Size: 52 DMS
Gas Type: Propane-LP
Circuit Board: Dinosaur Fan 50 Plus Pins Part# Fan 50 Plus Pins (this is their part number)
Board Replaces Atwood# 31501
Check Fuse at back of board
1 w/3sec pause Air Flow/Limit Fault
2 w/3sec pause Flame Sense Fault
3 w/3sec pause Ignition Lockout Fault
Steady, no flashing Internal Control Failure
The Fan 50 Plus Pins will wait for one full hour and try the whole sequence
again before “locking out”.
If installation is a replacement of a Suburban® or Atwood® /Hydroflame fan board, you can simply turn the thermostat down and back up to
restart the whole “3 try” sequence.
If installation is an upgrade of an older furnace and the time delay
relay is still in use, to restart the sequence at any time, you must turn the
thermostat down and allow enough time for the time delay relay to reset
before turning the thermostat up again.
If the motor comes on and the GREEN LED on the Fan 50 Plus Pins DOES NOT come on,
there is a problem in the circuitry of the “sailswitch, high limit switch, etc.”
The fan will run for ten minutes and shut off.
If the fan does not come on and the GREEN LED is lit on the circuit board,
the sail switch is stuck in the closed position. The Fan 50 Plus Pins
is designed to stop and do nothing if the sail switch is stuck closed.