Another "what would you do?" question

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by Chance

For what it’s worth after the fact, replacing a front tire on an E-Series is easy as long as you are not too old and or have physical limitations, which I assume you don’t since you added manual stabilizer jacks.

I’ve done mine (both Class C and van) many times; mostly for maintenance. It’s not that much harder than a car tire, just takes longer. Jack is very easy to use, and you have 8 lugs instead of 5. If parked on fairly level pavement or concrete, it shouldn’t take more than twice as long as a car tire.


By the way, buying new tires was the right thing to do. When I had a blow out last year on much older tires, the inner layers of tire appeared a lot worse than the outer that could be seen. Granted, some of the cracking seen on this picture may have occurred while rolling to a stop from Interstate speed.

The helpful gentleman at the tire store proceeded to point out all the cracks on the other tires that I didn't see--only saw the obvious ones on the really bad tire. He also muttered "oh yeah Michelin, see this all the time with them" LOL.

I was already planning on replacing the tires this off-season anyway since it would be the beginning of our 5th year with the coach (has it been that long already LOL).

Counting myself lucky those tires got me as far as they did for this trip (and that I spotted something before something really bad happened).

We did have a blowout once--in the 5th wheel. It was the same as you always hear/read: Just driving along and someone pulls up next to us pointing back at the camper yelling out their window. Pull over and yup a tire is shredded.

[Richard]

FYI.... a couple of quick points. 1) Manufacturers tend to build at absolute maximum load rating, so when replacing go the highest load rating and speed rating possible; 2) Cost of tire replacement is 'de minimus' compared to blowout problems... $1000 for tires vs. $5000 or more and time for blowout repairs; 3) Don't mess with tires that are: old, worn, or at their load/speed rating limits.

[Live Oak1]

NEVER take a chance on worn or weathered tires unless you enjoy sitting on the side of an interstate for a couple of hours. Been there done that. Unlike picking up a nail and the tire going flat, when a dry rotted tire goes it happens quickly and literally explodes generally doing damage to your rig and could result in a traffic accident. That being said, you can extend the usable life of tires if you keep the recommended air pressure in them even when stored, keep them coated with a rubber conditioner (I use Aerospace 303 in a squirt bottle) and get a set of tire vinyl covers to keep the uv rays from the tires.

[FrankMor]

When Inside rear tire that I "Was going to replace at the end of the season" let go on us on our Winnebago about 4 years ago I could not tell it went. DW was behind me, and thought her truck would get damaged. She passed me and we pulled over. Only damage was the exhaust tip on that side was gone. The tires had been upgraded by the previous owner from E range to G range. I had higher rated tires than the service truck. MH was on Chevy P30, 15,000 lb rated.


Frank

[Live Oak1]

If a tire has to go then it's best that the inside rear tire is the one. The least chance for body damage and control is stable with another inflated tire right next to it. Glad you didn't have other problems.

[Bob Denman]

One of our insureds had a front tire blow-out on his Big Class A Winnebago.
It shredded all of the bodywork, and his feet were exposed through the damage!
So he had the tire replaced at a shop in Alabama. They put on a tire with the wrong load range, and it was also a nine year-old tire!

Guess who lost more bodywork after only another 80 miles?

[99dart]

Just a thought, I have been spraying 303 UV protectant on mine. The tires on the old MH were 5+years old and looked great.