inverter install

[Ed FV racer]

Test to see if this works hopefully a picture.

[Ed FV racer]

Okay that was fun to figure out. This is under the kitchen sink in our 25.2 Axis 2018. I removed the back and false bottom and redid the drain line, moved water lines and wires close to consolidate the space. I screwed a 1/2" plywood to the existing wall and installed the new Rorbatt inverter from Amazon to it at an angle since it wouldn't fit any other way. I installed a battery cut off switch on the positive side to the inverter to so it wouldn't drain the batteries when not in use. Manual said .6amps when not in use. I made a wire to go from inverter power out plug to new outlet next to original outlet at end of counter in stair way into home.


This to power TV over the entrance door which I installed on a full motion mount so you can view it while sitting on the coach. This way we don't need to run generator just to watch TV and can use for other things as well.


Hope the picture isin't confusing. Ed

[Chateau_Nomad]

That's a pretty robust inverter to just run a TV... are you planning on expanding usage to other things?

[16ACE27]

Can't you use the remote control to turn it off? Should be 0 amps draw when off.

Fusible link or DC breaker in the line from the batteries?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Can't you use the remote control to turn it off? Should be 0 amps draw when off.

Fusible link or DC breaker in the line from the batteries?

Looks like a nice and capable inverter.

[Pillbox]

Nice job, I heard thor was hiring.
Terry

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Pillbox

Nice job, I heard thor was hiring.
Terry

Scubawise is collecting tools if you need any.

Seriously... this install is very nice! Exactly what I'm looking into. I'm gonna cheap out a little though and likely only go with 1,000 watts. But I like your thinking about "room to expand".

[sportcoupe]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Can't you use the remote control to turn it off? Should be 0 amps draw when off.

Fusible link or DC breaker in the line from the batteries?

An inverter connected to batteries draws power even when selected OFF. The bigger the inverter, the more power it consumes just idling (OFF and connected to batteries).

My 1500 watt has a no load current draw of 1.1 amps. The 2000 watt version is 1.4 amps no load.

[Ed FV racer]

I figured the draw when not in use was with it turned off. So the battery dicounnect was a safe way of eliminating any power to the inverter. I had it in my spare parts box for the race car since it is a common part on a race car to allow the corner workers to turn off the electrical system if the car is in an accident.


As for working for Thor, do I get to keep the tools or do I have to leave them in the unit at the end of each day?


The answer to possible using the inverter for other things, yes, that is why I got the larger capacity. I will work on things in steps instead of attempting everything at once.


I had noticed thorough the grill under the fridge, that a flex hose was off, so re attached that and noticed the electric panel seemed to be coming away from the wall on one side and it was so repaired that as well. Also with the grill off I noticed or found that relay I saw someone talk about before, trombone? It was attached to the floor which I guess was to be close to the panel, which was in a plastic box instead of metal, never have seen that before.


Ed

[lwmcguire]

Curious about air movement for cooling, especially as you add load

Mine has a fan controlled by a 110f snap disk

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by sportcoupe

An inverter connected to batteries draws power even when selected OFF. The bigger the inverter, the more power it consumes just idling (OFF and connected to batteries).

My 1500 watt has a no load current draw of 1.1 amps. The 2000 watt version is 1.4 amps no load.

No load current (idling) and an inverter turned OFF are not the same thing. An inverter turned OFF draws no current as it has no DC input in the OFF condition.

[JimC]

I did a similar install on my Daybreak 22GOc. I have three dedicated inverter AC outlets, with the option for one more from my 1500/3000W unit. I'm thinking about using the 4th outlet to the gas/electric fridge to use when in high altitude on electric rather than gas. The three existing inverter AC outputs have outlets for the TV/DVD/DishReceiver, near the dinette, and near the bed. These tend to be used for usb chargers a lot [grandkids] and watching TV while moving. I have brown face plates for the shorepower/generator outlets and white faceplates for the inverter outlets.

Attached is a diagram showing my DC modifications to the Thor coach DC diagram. The small numbers by the wires is the gage .

The physical location of the inverter is under the cabinets/fridge in a chase where the cold/hot /waste plumbing runs. The inverter is approximately 7 ft from the dual coach batteries.

I have also added two outlets to the shorepower AC ground fault circuit.

JC

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

This is becoming a very popular modification. Pretty much follows your schematic above. I have a picture of my 1000W inverter installed right over the batteries in the battery compartment, this provides short DC pwr cable runs.

I install the inverter and 200 Amp Fuse to the lower surface of the floor. I then route the wire to an additional plug under the table, the plug on the right is the factory AC plug. I then have a refrigerator switch back at the pwr center. i can select shore pwr or inverter to run refrig.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Scubawise is collecting tools if you need any.

Seriously... this install is very nice! Exactly what I'm looking into. I'm gonna cheap out a little though and likely only go with 1,000 watts. But I like your thinking about "room to expand".

I threw the tool away funny

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by Ed FV racer

Okay that was fun to figure out. This is under the kitchen sink in our 25.2 Axis 2018. I removed the back and false bottom and redid the drain line, moved water lines and wires close to consolidate the space. I screwed a 1/2" plywood to the existing wall and installed the new Rorbatt inverter from Amazon to it at an angle since it wouldn't fit any other way. I installed a battery cut off switch on the positive side to the inverter to so it wouldn't drain the batteries when not in use. Manual said .6amps when not in use. I made a wire to go from inverter power out plug to new outlet next to original outlet at end of counter in stair way into home.


This to power TV over the entrance door which I installed on a full motion mount so you can view it while sitting on the coach. This way we don't need to run generator just to watch TV and can use for other things as well.



Hope the picture isin't confusing. Ed

Great job! If you can wire other needed items..we did all tv ..outlets..microwave and solar recharges vmax batteries

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Exactly what I'm looking into. I'm gonna cheap out a little though and likely only go with 1,000 watts. But I like your thinking about "room to expand".

Did you buy anything yet? Since you asked me what I think I feel compelled to offer up some advise.

I have 1,000 watt Magnum Dynamics and never come close to using the 1,000 watts. But no hair dryer, and no need to run microwave unless shorepower or genny is runny. However if I was installing new or if my 1,000 watt unit dies, I will buy the Magnum Dynamics 2000 as it is is plug and play solution, the gauge wiring I have supports the 2,000 watts.

OP has 4000 watts, that is a lot How many batteries would he need just to sniff 3000 watts? I also can't tell the gauge but I hope the wiring is rated to handle 30 plus amps vac and input DC current could be as high 360 plus should he ever expands?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

No load current (idling) and an inverter turned OFF are not the same thing. An inverter turned OFF draws no current as it has no DC input in the OFF condition.

If you were not right, I would have drained down my batteries many times.

When my Inverter is off, nothing is happening. I can turn off with remote switch or directly on unit as it has it's own on and off. When it is on, it tells you EXACTLY what the battery draw is in watts and amps.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Did you buy anything yet? Since you asked me what I think I feel compelled to offer up some advise.

I have 1,000 watt Magnum Dynamics and never come close to using the 1,000 watts. But no hair dryer, and no need to run microwave unless shorepower or genny is runny. However if I was installing new or if my 1,000 watt unit dies, I will buy the Magnum Dynamics 2000 as it is is plug and play solution, the gauge wiring I have supports the 2,000 watts.

OP has 4000 watts, that is a lot How many batteries would he need just to sniff 3000 watts? I also can't tell the gauge but I hope the wiring is rated to handle 30 plus amps vac and input DC current could be as high 360 plus should he ever expands?

Currently working on installing the cab seat swivel bases. Got the portable LED projector/Fire Stick. Making a small homemade projector screen from white "blackout" cloth. Next step is planning the inverter... just need for projector and reefer. Anything more I'll use the genny, or of course shore power.

I'll need to configure 3 outlets... one each near dinette, bedroom and refrigerator. I like the manual switch idea for the refrigerator... I just need to think it through and draw it up on paper. But I'm thinking anything beyond 1,000 watts is overkill in my case.

I have no other need other than stated for inverted AC... any upgrades will likely be to battery capacity/type. (hint hint )

[OldWEB]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Can't you use the remote control to turn it off? Should be 0 amps draw when off.

Fusible link or DC breaker in the line from the batteries?

If the remote is used to turn the inverter back "ON", then it has to be using some power to 'listen' for the command from the remote. How much that power is, I dunno... same process as remote controlled TVs.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by OldWEB

If the remote is used to turn the inverter back "ON", then it has to be using some power to 'listen' for the command from the remote. How much that power is, I dunno... same process as remote controlled TVs.

This "remote" must be a radio or infrared remote control which switches a hot internal power supply?

Otherwise, as stated, a HARD WIRED "remote" acts as a circuit breaker... physically disconnecting ALL DC POWER to the inverter. Which means it's completely disconnected, and impossible for it to be consuming power. Just like a properly wired battery disconnect switch would work.