RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×
 

Go Back   Thor Forums > Thor Tech Forums > Modifications and Updates
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-17-2020, 11:05 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Minnesota
Posts: 10
THOR #15607
RV connection to home - new construction

If you were building a new house with attached garage for your RV and wanted to make your RV into a guest room for 24/7 use in the winter months what things would you add to your house? How about changes you'd make to your RV?

I know this could go in a million directions but had a friend of mine not suggested it I'd never thought to add a dump station. We are fairly new RV'ers breaking ground soon and I thought I could ask this group for specific idea's or accommodating products. My wife and I are the general contractors and most of our subs are family, we are only bound by county\state regulations. We're building in MN in the country (think cold, private septic\well\gas). We hate that we have to store our (2018 Vegas 24.1), every winter unused and now have the opportunity to make it a permanent guest room during the cold months. the RV stall is walled off the main garage still attached to the house, all in floor heating. The plans so far include 30amp hookup, a direct water line and a cleanout for the black\grey tanks. Can you think of anything else that we can add or change that can help turn our RV into a guest house?
__________________

__________________
K2Whire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2020, 11:40 PM   #2
I Think We're Lost!
 
Bob Denman's Avatar
 
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 16,846
THOR #8860
I'd definitely have a connection into your sewer pipes, and why not add some solar carving panels for the chassis engine?
(The coach batteries will be fine with your 30 amp hook-up.)
__________________

__________________
Bob Denman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2020, 11:49 PM   #3
Site Team
 
EA37TS's Avatar
 
Brand: Entegra
Model: Accolade 37TS
State: Virginia
Posts: 4,739
THOR #1469
If it were me I'd scrap the 30 Amp and go 50 amp from jump street. If you ever change the RV and buy one with 50 amp service you'll be happy to did the 50 amp up front. You can step down 50 amp to 30 amp with an adapter but you can't increase 30 amp to 50 amp. Better yet put in an RV park style pedestal with 20, 30 and 50 amp service.

I am talking from experience. I paid 350 to 30 amp installed and then had to pay 500 to have 50 amp installed because everything (plug, wires, breakers etc...) had to be changed. Live and learn.

If the garage is being built consider a cat walk around the sides for accessing the RV roof.

Just my opinion.
__________________
Dave
US Army (Ret)
2020 Entegra Accolade 37TS
2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk (Toad)
FMCA - F432054
EA37TS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 12:22 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
The_Breeze's Avatar
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Chateau 31L
State: Florida
Posts: 1,587
THOR #12189
You don't mention your RV model so no way to tell how tall it is. I'm not sure about the cat walk. There may be a reason that was stated but I'd just build the ceiling higher so I could go up there and inspect or work.

Do the 50A, hands down if you're in a place where you might upgrade somewhere down the road.

Definitely do the sewer gig however, do not leave your valves open. You should dump the same way you would if you're camping, using gray to flush the line. I know it's a pain and you would hope for better but if you create the infamous pyramid, you may not be happy with what has to happen to correct it - unless you have enough money to pay someone to do it for you.

If code allows it, consider a pit so you can get underneath it without a creeper. Again, it goes back to where you are in life.

Post pics of what you decided to do.
__________________
The_Breeze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 12:32 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
ducksface's Avatar
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2018 24.1 AXISSIXxSIX
State: Arizona
Posts: 2,483
THOR #13932
I have 50amp,
A septic hookup
Water bib
In the 24.1 garage.

I don't use the 50amp circuit and you won't either, but install one anyway.

As a contractor you should be aware of bedroom count vs septic tank size and aware of bathroom in a garage restrictions.

You should know of the HUGE AND TIGHT restrictions on building regulations and insurance exemptions of sleeping in a garage. You can't. That's just about the end of it.

Find out now what the county and city and your insurer think of this before you proceed with anything.

AND

Make the garage a drive through with doors on both ends.
12ft wide doors instead of 10ft wide.
Shaft mount liftmaster garage door openers not center Mounts shown in the link below.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...6f-baGCime-2n1
__________________
Below is a link to most of my modifications either accomplished or pending.
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...n-18996-3.html

Click on my pictures then click the pop-up for a full screen zoomable picture.
ducksface is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 12:33 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Newmar Bay Star Sport 300
State: Alabama
Posts: 2,743
THOR #6826
There are lots of these already built. They are called RV port homes. Do some on line research and see what you like and donít like. No point in reinventing the wheel. A few years ago I was at the Indianapolis home show and got to talking to a builder about making a community of these. All the ones I know about are in snowbird locations but, of course all those snowbirds come home in the summer and could use a local port home. He was really intrigued and we talked for nearly an hour. I wonít be surprised if a community pops up around here one day. Zoning is an issue in some locations.
__________________
Pete'sMH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 12:44 AM   #7
Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Thor outlaw 38MB
State: Florida
Posts: 65
THOR #18251
What Duckface said is the best advice. Find out the limitations then build to the max.
__________________
Into the great wide open,under them skyís of blue
Outlaw 38MB
V1VR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 01:41 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 29M
State: Texas
Posts: 1,080
THOR #11781
My RV has its own electric, water and septic system. All separate from the houses systems. If I were to move to a new property, I would repeat the setup.
__________________
Lt Keefer
2018 Hurricane 29M
CHF, Saf-T-Plus, SumoSprings
Lt Keefer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 02:45 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Popfla's Avatar
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2019 Freedom Elite 30FE
State: Florida
Posts: 489
THOR #14543
Exclamation

If the RV garage is fully enclosed, don't plan on using the propane for heat, hot water or cooking. Carbon monoxide can accumulate quickly and kills silently. For safety sake, install CO and smoke detectors in the garage, and check the ones in the RV frequently.

And add me to the "50/30/20 amp pedestal club". Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.
__________________
Ed
2019 Thor Freedom Elite 30FE w/2020 Jeep Gladiator Toad
Living The Dream in "God's Waiting Room"
Popfla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 03:15 AM   #10
Member
 
Brand: DRV
Model: Mobile Suites 36RSB3
State: Oregon
Posts: 92
THOR #17449
50 Amp service
Sewer dump station.
water hook up.
cable tv hook up.
WiFi in the garage
Make the parking/garage area 10 feet wider than planned and 15 ft longer that planned. at least a 14ft high ceiling even then it will be to small.
__________________
GTM41261 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 03:20 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Calman's Avatar
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: North Carolina
Posts: 305
THOR #11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt Keefer View Post
My RV has its own electric, water and septic system. All separate from the houses systems. If I were to move to a new property, I would repeat the setup.
When I built the current house 20 years ago Imoved onto the property in my 2690 Layton TT. I was very fortunate in that at some time previous there had been a 3 BR mobile home on the site and when it was removed they left behind the power pole with breaker box. It was only a matter of getting the electrical company to reenergize it and add a 30 AMP outlet for the trailer. And naturally I availed myself of the water and sewer hookups already in place.

Once the house was finished I decommissioned the power pole and moved the 30 AMP outlet to the side of the new house.

There have been many instances of hooking my RV to all three services. (Ditto for guests). They have paid for themselves many times over in both monetary and convenience terms.
__________________
Cal Bridgers
YNCM USN-Retired (64-90)
RVN (Tet 68)
2015 Thor Vegas 24.1
Calman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 04:05 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
dkoldman's Avatar
 
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
State: Texas
Posts: 841
THOR #13058
Are you saying you gonna put your RV inside a garage built next to you house and then have someone live in it? What would they look at unless you plan to have glass around the perimeter?

We have done something similar but the RV is outside. It has worked better than I could have imagined because I now (covid - 19) work out of the RV at home. My wifes works out of the home office. We are both in meetings all day on video calls etc. so we don't disturb each other. I move my unit around reversing directions just to see different scenery. I worry about exhaust from Generator that may below into garage due to wind. Garage can be closed but still get some fumes. I have 50 / 30 / 20 amp services and actually use all 3. I can run both ACs off the 30 amp but I normally use the 50 as that is what my RV is wired for. There have been times where I move it on other side of fence and I used 20 amp with adapter, 1 AC and it too worked just fine.

I have gray water drain but not sewer, it was just too far and expensive in my case to get to a sewer drain. I do have a portable port a potti in bathroom now temporarily because I am trying to minimize the need for a black waste tank drains with all of the uncertainty. You will not have that issue.

Questions I have,

How you will heat the unit? I would be afraid of running propane inside. May not be an issue, but if a tunnel can be a concern, then an enclosed garage would be bigger to me. Maybe add a large exhaust fan in highest point of garage roof?

Do you assume you will not need to run the ACs? if so; you may wish to have some system to catch condensate unless you are ok with it running on concrete floor?

I think your unit has electric hot water? Just looking to see if you can avoid propane use for hot water.
__________________
2019 Sunstar 29VE w/Magellan Tent
Safe T Plus EC-30 AGS
Nighthawk X4 AC2200 WiFi EX7300; H/W Heater & Chassis Disconnect Switches; Southwire Surge Guard 44270
dkoldman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 01:24 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2016 Thor Outlaw 29H
State: Tennessee
Posts: 458
THOR #13869
For me, it would need to be nearly a barn size.
Make it large enough to accommodate a full 40'+ long RV or 5th wheel.
Of course, the 20-30-50 amp station would be good.
My biggest concern, in Minnesota, is keeping water & plumbing system from freezing.
You could easily build a separate toilet/bath room in the building, that would be convenient any time, even without the camper in there.

But realize this, no matter how big you build it, one day you may wish it was bigger!
Now where can I store these scooters and golf cart...Ö...LOL
__________________
.....
Rusty
10scDust is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 01:46 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Brand: Keystone
Model: Sprinter
State: Florida
Posts: 1,201
THOR #15553
Quote:
Originally Posted by K2Whire View Post
If you were building a new house with attached garage for your RV and wanted to make your RV into a guest room for 24/7 use in the winter months what things would you add to your house? How about changes you'd make to your RV?

I know this could go in a million directions but had a friend of mine not suggested it I'd never thought to add a dump station. We are fairly new RV'ers breaking ground soon and I thought I could ask this group for specific idea's or accommodating products. My wife and I are the general contractors and most of our subs are family, we are only bound by county\state regulations. We're building in MN in the country (think cold, private septic\well\gas). We hate that we have to store our (2018 Vegas 24.1), every winter unused and now have the opportunity to make it a permanent guest room during the cold months. the RV stall is walled off the main garage still attached to the house, all in floor heating. The plans so far include 30amp hookup, a direct water line and a cleanout for the black\grey tanks. Can you think of anything else that we can add or change that can help turn our RV into a guest house?
You pretty much have it covered. Do not run any gas appliances while it is parked in the garage. Don't build a service bay. It's just a storage space. I'm guessing you already know not to free flow the black tank right?
__________________
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.
cavie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 05:02 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Minnesota
Posts: 10
THOR #15607
Quote:
Originally Posted by EA37TS View Post
If it were me I'd scrap the 30 Amp and go 50 amp from jump street. If you ever change the RV and buy one with 50 amp service you'll be happy to did the 50 amp up front. You can step down 50 amp to 30 amp with an adapter but you can't increase 30 amp to 50 amp. Better yet put in an RV park style pedestal with 20, 30 and 50 amp service.

I am talking from experience. I paid 350 to 30 amp installed and then had to pay 500 to have 50 amp installed because everything (plug, wires, breakers etc...) had to be changed. Live and learn.

If the garage is being built consider a cat walk around the sides for accessing the RV roof.

Just my opinion.
First off, thank you for your service. Excellent idea on the amp hookups and I can just use a dogbane to go from the 50/30. Gets me thinking I will want both 50/30 installed on the outside of the garage as well for the summer months.
__________________
K2Whire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 05:31 PM   #16
Junior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Minnesota
Posts: 10
THOR #15607
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
Are you saying you gonna put your RV inside a garage built next to you house and then have someone live in it? What would they look at unless you plan to have glass around the perimeter?

We have done something similar but the RV is outside. It has worked better than I could have imagined because I now (covid - 19) work out of the RV at home. My wifes works out of the home office. We are both in meetings all day on video calls etc. so we don't disturb each other. I move my unit around reversing directions just to see different scenery. I worry about exhaust from Generator that may below into garage due to wind. Garage can be closed but still get some fumes. I have 50 / 30 / 20 amp services and actually use all 3. I can run both ACs off the 30 amp but I normally use the 50 as that is what my RV is wired for. There have been times where I move it on other side of fence and I used 20 amp with adapter, 1 AC and it too worked just fine.

I have gray water drain but not sewer, it was just too far and expensive in my case to get to a sewer drain. I do have a portable port a potti in bathroom now temporarily because I am trying to minimize the need for a black waste tank drains with all of the uncertainty. You will not have that issue.

Questions I have,

How you will heat the unit? I would be afraid of running propane inside. May not be an issue, but if a tunnel can be a concern, then an enclosed garage would be bigger to me. Maybe add a large exhaust fan in highest point of garage roof?

Do you assume you will not need to run the ACs? if so; you may wish to have some system to catch condensate unless you are ok with it running on concrete floor?

I think your unit has electric hot water? Just looking to see if you can avoid propane use for hot water.
Not so much as permanent "live in" as a ""guest bedroom", mainly I'm thinking about the few days during holidays when the fam comes out to visit. It's attached garage, they can still run in the house if needed (provided I leave the door unlocked ; jk . The only extra bedroom in the house is to be our telework office and it would be nice to give them the privacy and I also like your idea of being able to switch it up for work, going out there for meetings as there are times we are both on calls. In floor heating the RV stall will be its own zone. No propane in garage (electric water heater - yes), no exhaust planned. Think a/c condensation catch - roger.
__________________
K2Whire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 05:34 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
ducksface's Avatar
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2018 24.1 AXISSIXxSIX
State: Arizona
Posts: 2,483
THOR #13932
Quote:
Originally Posted by K2Whire View Post
Not so much as permanent "live in", mainly I'm thinking about the few days during holidays when the fam comes out to visit. The only extra bedroom in the house is to be our telework office. In floor heating the RV stall will be its own zone. No propane in garage (electric water heater - yes), no exhaust planned.
Then you need nothing.
15 amp circuit is OK.
It's an attached garage and there's a bathroom and shower in your house. No one wants to poop in such close proximity anyway if it can be avoided.

Check with insurance carrier.
__________________
Below is a link to most of my modifications either accomplished or pending.
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...n-18996-3.html

Click on my pictures then click the pop-up for a full screen zoomable picture.
ducksface is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 06:34 PM   #18
I Think We're Lost!
 
Bob Denman's Avatar
 
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
Posts: 16,846
THOR #8860
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
Are you saying you gonna put your RV inside a garage built next to you house and then have someone live in it? What would they look at unless you plan to have glass around the perimeter?.
You sure don't want to make your geusts TOO comfortable: they might not want to leave!
__________________
Good Sam Member 843599689
Current coach: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
"History shows again and again; how Nature points out the folly of Man!"
Bob Denman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 07:36 PM   #19
Junior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Minnesota
Posts: 10
THOR #15607
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Breeze View Post
You don't mention your RV model so no way to tell how tall it is. I'm not sure about the cat walk. There may be a reason that was stated but I'd just build the ceiling higher so I could go up there and inspect or work.

Do the 50A, hands down if you're in a place where you might upgrade somewhere down the road.

Definitely do the sewer gig however, do not leave your valves open. You should dump the same way you would if you're camping, using gray to flush the line. I know it's a pain and you would hope for better but if you create the infamous pyramid, you may not be happy with what has to happen to correct it - unless you have enough money to pay someone to do it for you.

If code allows it, consider a pit so you can get underneath it without a creeper. Again, it goes back to where you are in life.

Post pics of what you decided to do.
Garage size is 16Hx20WX46L holding a 24.1 Vegas. Plenty of room but I'll still need to bend if I get up on the roof. Got it, treat the sewer system same as camping, black first then grey, no free flow. I was thinking about going with the rhino blaster pro w\ gate valve. I'll definitely post pics.
__________________
K2Whire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2020, 08:21 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Brand: Keystone
Model: Sprinter
State: Florida
Posts: 1,201
THOR #15553
Quote:
Originally Posted by K2Whire View Post
Garage size is 16Hx20WX46L holding a 24.1 Vegas. Plenty of room but I'll still need to bend if I get up on the roof. Got it, treat the sewer system same as camping, black first then grey, no free flow. I was thinking about going with the rhino blaster pro w\ gate valve. I'll definitely post pics.
Do not waste your money on a rino blaster or any kind of sewer cleaner atachment untill you watch this

__________________

__________________
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.
cavie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Thor Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.




All times are GMT. The time now is 07:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
×