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Old 07-29-2017, 11:10 PM   #1
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Screwing into the Rubber Roof

I'll be installing vent covers onto the Vegas using sealant strips. Is there any problem inserting screws into a rubber roof? What material is underneath the rubber? Is it plywood? Just wondering. Thanks.....

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Old 07-29-2017, 11:43 PM   #2
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roof nails

anytime you drill, cut screw, nail through a roof it is a place for it to leak, sooner or later its gonna leak there
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:05 AM   #3
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There are vent covers out there that use the existing vent mounting bolts for installation. Some like Maxx Air can use a bracket mounted to the vent frame to secure the vent cover.

With the options available I wouldn't dream of screwing through the rubber roof.
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:14 AM   #4
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Got it. Thank you.
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:22 AM   #5
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3M 5200 sealant
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:33 AM   #6
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if you're installing vent covers they normally attach to the vent frame. If you do have to drill in the roof then lay down butyl sealing strip before installing the screws and then coat everything well with self leveling Dicor. Normally there is thin plywood under the rubber with framework under that. I've drilled and cut many holes in rubber roofs for mounting various items, good sealing is the key to no leaks.
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:23 AM   #7
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If you go with the vent covers that mount to the existing vent frame I'd recommend you use stainless steel nuts, bolts, and lock washers in place of the screws that come with it.
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:24 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by captmetal View Post
anytime you drill, cut screw, nail through a roof it is a place for it to leak, sooner or later its gonna leak there
If it's sealed properly it won't leak. You also have to make sure it stays sealed.
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:40 AM   #9
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I put a 1" hole in my roof for all my electrical gadgets and solar. As long as you have a good cap or cover and Dicor it well, it won't leak anymore than any other hole you have in your roof. Of course make sure you check your roof at least every 2-3 months and more often for new holes.
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Old 07-30-2017, 03:36 AM   #10
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I want to install a satellite dish on the roof of my Freedom Elite along with the appropriate cable. I will need to drill approximately 5 screw holes for the mount and a 1" hole covered by a cap (with 4 more screws) for the cable entry. Does anyone have any experience with this? I already have the Dicor to seal everything up but can anyone suggest the size of the screws (stainless of course) that I should use for the mount and the entry cover? I want it to have a good grip but I don't want the screws coming through the ceiling. How about the satellite cable? How should I secure it? It will be running from the rear center of the MH to an area above the TV cabinet on the passenger side near where the TV antenna cable enters. The TV cable appears to be secured with puddles of Dicor. Is that enough? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:57 AM   #11
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Normally the satellite dish comes with the mounting hardware for installation, if not 1" or 1 1/2" #10 screws will work just fine. To secure the cable you have several choices, uses cable clamps screwed in to the roof about every 12", secure with puddles of Dicor, or my favorite, use strips of Etrnabond tape. Tape holds well and is easy to use. Put butyl tape under the dish and cover to get a good roof seal and then use the Dicor.

Before doing anything I suggest you wash the roof first to make sure everything has a clean surface for sealing. Hope your project goes well!
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Old 07-30-2017, 01:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim5554
I want it to have a good grip but I don't want the screws coming through the ceiling.
That shouldn't be an issue unless you're using railroad spikes. There is room in the roof for insulation and ducting (if your A/C is ducted). Typically you're looking at 6+" between the top of the outside roof to the ceiling inside.

Just open one of the hatches to see how thick the roof is.
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:28 PM   #13
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Drilling

The MaxAir ceiling vents on our '16 Axis has four tabs on each corner. The rain covers attach by simply pushing what looks like a cotter pin through the tabs after pushing the cover over them. No drilling needed and clean install making it easy to clean in the future.
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Old 07-30-2017, 03:40 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
Normally the satellite dish comes with the mounting hardware for installation, if not 1" or 1 1/2" #10 screws will work just fine. To secure the cable you have several choices, uses cable clamps screwed in to the roof about every 12", secure with puddles of Dicor, or my favorite, use strips of Etrnabond tape. Tape holds well and is easy to use. Put butyl tape under the dish and cover to get a good roof seal and then use the Dicor.

Before doing anything I suggest you wash the roof first to make sure everything has a clean surface for sealing. Hope your project goes well!
That Flex Tape you see on TV where the guy saws a boat in half works well too.
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Old 07-30-2017, 09:57 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
That shouldn't be an issue unless you're using railroad spikes. There is room in the roof for insulation and ducting (if your A/C is ducted). Typically you're looking at 6+" between the top of the outside roof to the ceiling inside.

Just open one of the hatches to see how thick the roof is.
Thanks. I had no idea how thick the roof is. Your info makes sense. One inch #10's it is.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:28 PM   #16
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That Flex Tape you see on TV where the guy saws a boat in half works well too.
My son is in a Red Horse Unit in the Air Force. They're the only ground combat unit in the Air Force and they're like a USAF version of the SeaBees. During 8 years of Obama spare parts were non existent and they learned how to keep almost everything going with duct tape and WD-40. They did an extensive test of Flex Tape and Flex Spray to see if it could be useful. It was, for about 48 hrs. Then it failed. It has almost zero abrasion resistance and it doesn't do well in hot climates. It would be nice if it worked because it's easy to find. It doesn't, so I'll stick to eternabond. I keep a big roll of it in the RV at all times. Thanks.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
Normally the satellite dish comes with the mounting hardware for installation, if not 1" or 1 1/2" #10 screws will work just fine. To secure the cable you have several choices, uses cable clamps screwed in to the roof about every 12", secure with puddles of Dicor, or my favorite, use strips of Etrnabond tape. Tape holds well and is easy to use. Put butyl tape under the dish and cover to get a good roof seal and then use the Dicor.

Before doing anything I suggest you wash the roof first to make sure everything has a clean surface for sealing. Hope your project goes well!
I wish they did come with hardware. They don't. I have three options for the install. 1) Direct permanent mounting of the dish 2) Metal mounting plates that allow you to unbolt the dish from the rig for storage 3) a special mounting set up from King that allows you to remove the dish from the roof to use in on a tripod. Removing the dish takes about 15 seconds. None of these systems come with hardware. They all say to use the mounting system "of your choice". They don't bother to give the pros and cons of any system or make any suggestions. To be honest, I've never put any holes in a perfectly good roof and the idea scares the hell out of me. Your input makes me feel better.
Thanks
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Old 07-30-2017, 11:12 PM   #18
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You are very welcome!
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Old 07-30-2017, 11:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim5554 View Post
My son is in a Red Horse Unit in the Air Force. They're the only ground combat unit in the Air Force and they're like a USAF version of the SeaBees. During 8 years of Obama spare parts were non existent and they learned how to keep almost everything going with duct tape and WD-40. They did an extensive test of Flex Tape and Flex Spray to see if it could be useful. It was, for about 48 hrs. Then it failed. It has almost zero abrasion resistance and it doesn't do well in hot climates. It would be nice if it worked because it's easy to find. It doesn't, so I'll stick to eternabond. I keep a big roll of it in the RV at all times. Thanks.
When I was a USAF Security Specialist (35 years ago) I got to know a few Red Horse guys. They had the life, lol, but they were all good people.
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:44 PM   #20
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If your unit is under warranty, you could void the warranty by putting any kind of hole in the roof membrane. As others have noted, many, if not most, RV vent covers mount on metal tabs that attach to the frame of the vent itself. These may require a couple of small screw holes per tab but these aren't thru the roof. Last thing I'd do is put any sort of hole in the roof rubber covering.
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