Thor vegas 24.1 suspension modifications- comprehensive comparison

[vealessi]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

IMHO…
- SUMOs are easiest install. Just jack-up frame and crawl under, screw in place. The biggest improvement IMHO is…
If you don’t have hydraulic levelers to keep your rig stable while parked, then SUMOs are the best way to keep rig sturdy/stable when parked. So it does limit rocking, but Helwig sways already remedy most of that

- Helwig sway bars really help the side-to-side sway. Prob the best single mod you can make on your E series chassis. You’ll see when you remove the OEM sway bars, they are way way undersized.
Install: drive rig onto blocks so you can crawl underneath. You don’t jack-up the rig as they must be installed while suspension in normal position. You do need big-boy tools/sockets. Also you should purchase the Moog end links as the OEM end links will bend/break from the new added torque when rocking side-to-side

- Airlift 1000 front bags are not necessary but as I stated in previous posts (on another thread?) they do increase front clearance. So I like what I was able to achieve.
At 45-50#, it raises front end so that SUMOs don’t touch crossbar. So about an 1” increase.
I purchased as an open-box on Amazon so paid under $70. I did not add a remote pump inside cab, so I manually inflate by reaching hose in front hood.
Install: very difficult, jack up high, remove wheel, compress spring with spring compressor, place bag inside spring, route hose to front
One more thing on Airlift…I’ve had two bags leak in 18-24 months, but they lifetime warrant. So I called Airlift and they sent bag right out. But I had to re-install

- Bilstein Shocks, on the front only, is my most recent mod. Think I paid $190 on Amazon.
Install: jack up, remove wheel, then just a couple of bolts

My next mod will be new tires. That is, my 2016 chassis now has OEM Micheline LT tires over 5yrs old.
Other threads have discussed E series tire replacement in detail. Best to purchase C or Commercial grade tire.
So…225 75 16C
These C tires have a 3200# weight rating vs LT at 2600#

Thanks. Did you buy Moog end links for both front and rear sway bars? Hellwig says the rear comes with new end links, but for the front they recommend re-using the existing end links.

[taylorbob1]

They’re only for the fronts
Here’s a photo of OEM sway bar with OEM end links
The Moog end links are more robust & just $22 each

[Wandering724]

I can say that every penny I have spent (previously in this link) was well worth it. The coach doesn’t feel like it’s going to tip over all the time and handles well going down the road. It’s actually a pleasure to drive. Always remember it will never drive like my corvette.

[Medets]

Do you suggest Sumo in the rear? Huge price difference.

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by Medets

Do you suggest Sumo in the rear? Huge price difference.

I vote NO

For the current price they are not worth it IMHO
4 yrs ago rear SUMOs were $200, albeit they were designed much different.

The rear leaf springs on my E450 frame are huge and really don’t flex much (not sure abt current E350 chassis).
And the Vegas/Axis chassis without any suspension mods sits high in the rear, low in the front.

[vealessi]

I installed front and rear Sumo springs a couple weeks back; easy install as advertised. I've had one decent length trip (3 hours each direction). I notice a better (firmer) ride, but not a huge difference. I'm going to install the front/rear sway bars next.

I'm also finally bringing my rig in for my first warranty appointment; everything up front has vibrated loose - dash on the right side has detached from the wall and kind of floats, stereo is loose, center console loose, passenger cupholder/speaker box came loose, etc. I'm pretty appalled at the Thor build quality. Hopefully I have a good repair experience and that helps as well with some of the rattles. Will also probably have alignment checked; did a pretty rough ride down into Mexico a few months back and met some of the largest pot holes I have ever seen...

Originally Posted by vealessi

Thanks. Did you buy Moog end links for both front and rear sway bars? Hellwig says the rear comes with new end links, but for the front they recommend re-using the existing end links.

[Muggs]

We only have roadmaster damper so far. I am considering sway bars as next change.

I cannot really complain about current handling after putting commercial type tires on. Cruising at 85 no issue, with or without trailer. The oem Michelins never felt as smooth/stable even when new.

With 6 year old chassis also thinking shocks may be getting tired but overall ride seems fine at just over 40,000 miles.

[Axis25.2]

My solutions for the AXIS were Hellwig front and rear sway bars, Bilstein shocks (biggest difference since factory ford shocks were shot when I drove it home from the dealer), Sumos front and rear, rear air bags with remote, steering stabilizer and upgraded the Hankook stock tires to commercial rated tires when I had the Caster adjusted to +5.

It now rides like a caddy... But...

Today I looked under the chassis to check the hitch / frame area of which there is a thread on this forum. Sure enough, I have to finish welding what Thor cheaped out on if I plan on towing anything, especially my hitch-mounted scooter. The area in question is the bottom lip of Thor's extended frame being cheaply welded with an inch long weld in 3 spots... Not good... It's never-ending with these...

[happy]

Please allow me to pick your brain.

Axis 24.1 on E350
Sumo has several options for the rear.

Springs rating from 3,000 to 7,000 lbs and units that attack to top and bottom as well as units that attach at top only.

I am wondering which weight rating is most useful? Any guidance?

Also, is the spring that attaches at top and bottom, better?
It seems that this would control rebound and sway. But, it could also interfere with a good quality shock doing its work. Any recommendations?

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by happy

Please allow me to pick your brain.

Axis 24.1 on E350
Sumo has several options for the rear.

Springs rating from 3,000 to 7,000 lbs and units that attack to top and bottom as well as units that attach at top only.

I am wondering which weight rating is most useful? Any guidance?

Also, is the spring that attaches at top and bottom, better?
It seems that this would control rebound and sway. But, it could also interfere with a good quality shock doing its work. Any recommendations?

I would only add rear SUMOs if I didn’t add an upgraded rear Sway Bar. That is, the Ford OEM sway bar is very whimpy.
And if I decided to add rear SUMOs I would probably add the least expensive “one piece”.

Remember, the rear leaf springs do most of the work on the Vegas/Axis chassis.
And I have yet to see a Vegas/Axis that is sitting low in the rear (they all have low clearance in the front which is why many add SUMOs to the front end only)

[mcr1010]

Originally Posted by Axis25.2

My solutions for the AXIS were Hellwig front and rear sway bars, Bilstein shocks (biggest difference since factory ford shocks were shot when I drove it home from the dealer), Sumos front and rear, rear air bags with remote, steering stabilizer and upgraded the Hankook stock tires to commercial rated tires when I had the Caster adjusted to +5.

It now rides like a caddy... But...

Today I looked under the chassis to check the hitch / frame area of which there is a thread on this forum. Sure enough, I have to finish welding what Thor cheaped out on if I plan on towing anything, especially my hitch-mounted scooter. The area in question is the bottom lip of Thor's extended frame being cheaply welded with an inch long weld in 3 spots... Not good... It's never-ending with these...

You are right. IIRC, I added some grade 8 bolts into some existing holes on each side of the hitch where it was weakly welded before I started towing.

Recent incident. A couple pulled into a site beside us just as we were setting up a couple weeks ago. He was driving the motorhome, she was driving the car. I asked if they were set up to tow and both told us how the hitch came loose and they were barely able to get to the side of the road before it came completely off. It messed up the front of their car, but was drivable. Not sure what let go, but there was no hitch or tow bar on the motorhome. They were from FL also, and this campground was in NC. I mentioned that he may could get it repaired in that town. Not sure what the outcome was.
So, it is good to check the mounting of the hitch socket to the frame.

[happy]

Thank you all again for the great information.

I can foresee that purchase price is not the end of spending!!

[Axis25.2]

Originally Posted by vealessi

I installed front and rear Sumo springs a couple weeks back; easy install as advertised. I've had one decent length trip (3 hours each direction). I notice a better (firmer) ride, but not a huge difference. I'm going to install the front/rear sway bars next.

I'm also finally bringing my rig in for my first warranty appointment; everything up front has vibrated loose - dash on the right side has detached from the wall and kind of floats, stereo is loose, center console loose, passenger cupholder/speaker box came loose, etc. I'm pretty appalled at the Thor build quality. Hopefully I have a good repair experience and that helps as well with some of the rattles. Will also probably have alignment checked; did a pretty rough ride down into Mexico a few months back and met some of the largest pot holes I have ever seen...

The dash is pretty much made up of 1x1s, and if you get centered nails / staples consider yourself lucky. FYI, Bilsteins are a must.

[happy]

On the 2022 Ford E350 chassis (Thor Axis) do any of you know the Moog part number for the front sway bar links? Or, do you know where I find the correct Moog part number?

I want to use the Hellwig front sway bar 7718.
taylorBob1 shows some links but it is for a 2017...do they still fit on a 2022?

PS: when I joined I warned that I would be asking questions. I was told to ask away!!

[happy]

Most of the posts so far are from owners with a V10, or a year model was not mentioned.

Anyone with the V8 E350 chassis care to comment about Sumos or sway bars?
There have been a few tweeks to the newer chassis, so I would appreciate hearing about your ride.

[taylorbob1]

Good point!

We know abt the new motor.
Do we know if the frame & suspension are any different from previous E350’s ???

[Axis25.2]

Originally Posted by happy

On the 2022 Ford E350 chassis (Thor Axis) do any of you know the Moog part number for the front sway bar links? Or, do you know where I find the correct Moog part number?

I want to use the Hellwig front sway bar 7718.
taylorBob1 shows some links but it is for a 2017...do they still fit on a 2022?

PS: when I joined I warned that I would be asking questions. I was told to ask away!!

WHY would they do that?

[KFF]

Hi,
Have a 2022 axis.
Any model numbers, where to purchase for all the suspension upgrades.
Thanks

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by KFF

Hi, a 2022 axis.
Any model numbers, where to purchase for all the suspension upgrades.
Thanks

Drive it for a while to determine if you even need a suspension mod.
My guess is upwards of 95% of rv's have no mod and the people are just fine.

Please consider that many people are firing the parts cannon at their suspension because they are trying to buy ABILITY.
You haven't had your rv long enough to evaluate your ability.

[MLP]

Originally Posted by happy

Thank you all again for the great information.

I can foresee that purchase price is not the end of spending!!

It isn't with any RV or camper under 1.7M? And even then after warranty.