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Old 11-12-2018, 12:21 AM   #41
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State: California
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Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
NICE!! Thanks for posting. I have been watching the local "Craigslist" for nice older bikes. I'm just unsure of the wheel kit. What brand (or are they pretty much the same) & voltage/watt combination to go with. I have been building battery packs since the 80's when I raced radio control off road cars. So, I have been tearing apart my old laptop batteries and using the 18650's in an old drill and electric screw driver. It's fun to mess with!
Pat, laptop cells are built for 4 hour+ discharge rates and won't work well for e bike use unless you are building a huge battery (80+miles). Cells from tool batteries or cells with 10+ amp continuous ratings (30amps for 3 in parallel) is what's needed.

36v500w kits are adequate for single bikes, even tandems, if you have good batteries and contribute some muscle (especially on hills). If you use proper size wires and good connections (soldered) you'll see nearly 1000 watts peak. I've bought lot's of 26" and 700c kits from Ebikling.com and recommend him, but he has had no kit inventory for months. My next buy will be from one of the Ebay sellers. Typically they only sell 26" wheel kits, but that's fine. I would suggest one with a controller that has 2 power levels. A simple on/off switch on the 2 blue (usually) wire changes between full power to 25mph and power only to 20mph. Sometime they call it "legal" mode. 25mph+ is fun but the battery range is reduced. Remember air resistance is the only important force to overcome and it increases with the square of speed.

I like to keep the build simple and don't install the PAS (pedal assist); only throttle. I prefer thumb throttle to twist. I don't install the brake cutoff connections unless I have to use a twist throttle (You often can't help turning the twist throttle grabbing the brakes). You will never use or need the 2 smaller front chain rings on an e bike. The left shifter can go and that a good place for the throttle. Road bikes usually have 53/11 top gear which allows a reasonable pedal cadence at 25mph. High end mountain bikes often have an 11 in the rear but will likely need a larger front chain ring or so you don't spin out and not be able to contribute power. If the bike frame is AL you probably need suspension . A rigid Cromo steel bike is OK but a large 2.15-2.25" front tire to handle 25mph pot holes is a must. Never use an aluminum front fork with front drive. The torque of these motors is huge and it is all transferred to the 10mm flats on the 14mm dia. axles. Use or build steel torque arms to keep the axles from spinning and eating out you fork's axle mounts.

48v1000w kits go faster (28mph) but consume battery power faster. The hub motors are the same so just changing the controller(~$35) will change power rating. Many controller (like ebikling's) have an external display that programs the controller for various voltages. Since I use tool batteries, 36V(2s) and 54v(3s) are my only choices. It turns out 54v works find with all the 48v controllers I have tried.

For you first build, put everything on the bike and test it. You can then go back and shorten unnecessary long cables. I remove connectors that are not needed with solder and sealed connections. I replace the connectors are used (like controller to hub) with quality waterproof one.

Good luck. It's fun. The technology is amazing and it will likely change your life and health.
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:14 PM   #42
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Thank you SOOO much for all the good info! I really like tinkering with things. I've been in to muscle cars and fabricating stuff since I was a kid. The E-bikes just sound like a lot of fun! Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Firedog91902 View Post
Pat, laptop cells are built for 4 hour+ discharge rates and won't work well for e bike use unless you are building a huge battery (80+miles). Cells from tool batteries or cells with 10+ amp continuous ratings (30amps for 3 in parallel) is what's needed.

36v500w kits are adequate for single bikes, even tandems, if you have good batteries and contribute some muscle (especially on hills). If you use proper size wires and good connections (soldered) you'll see nearly 1000 watts peak. I've bought lot's of 26" and 700c kits from Ebikling.com and recommend him, but he has had no kit inventory for months. My next buy will be from one of the Ebay sellers. Typically they only sell 26" wheel kits, but that's fine. I would suggest one with a controller that has 2 power levels. A simple on/off switch on the 2 blue (usually) wire changes between full power to 25mph and power only to 20mph. Sometime they call it "legal" mode. 25mph+ is fun but the battery range is reduced. Remember air resistance is the only important force to overcome and it increases with the square of speed.

I like to keep the build simple and don't install the PAS (pedal assist); only throttle. I prefer thumb throttle to twist. I don't install the brake cutoff connections unless I have to use a twist throttle (You often can't help turning the twist throttle grabbing the brakes). You will never use or need the 2 smaller front chain rings on an e bike. The left shifter can go and that a good place for the throttle. Road bikes usually have 53/11 top gear which allows a reasonable pedal cadence at 25mph. High end mountain bikes often have an 11 in the rear but will likely need a larger front chain ring or so you don't spin out and not be able to contribute power. If the bike frame is AL you probably need suspension . A rigid Cromo steel bike is OK but a large 2.15-2.25" front tire to handle 25mph pot holes is a must. Never use an aluminum front fork with front drive. The torque of these motors is huge and it is all transferred to the 10mm flats on the 14mm dia. axles. Use or build steel torque arms to keep the axles from spinning and eating out you fork's axle mounts.

48v1000w kits go faster (28mph) but consume battery power faster. The hub motors are the same so just changing the controller(~$35) will change power rating. Many controller (like ebikling's) have an external display that programs the controller for various voltages. Since I use tool batteries, 36V(2s) and 54v(3s) are my only choices. It turns out 54v works find with all the 48v controllers I have tried.

For you first build, put everything on the bike and test it. You can then go back and shorten unnecessary long cables. I remove connectors that are not needed with solder and sealed connections. I replace the connectors are used (like controller to hub) with quality waterproof one.

Good luck. It's fun. The technology is amazing and it will likely change your life and health.
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Old 11-12-2018, 10:23 PM   #43
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This one doesn't need pedals...


http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1542064995
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Old 11-13-2018, 07:45 PM   #44
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No thank you please! I've crashed twice on motorcycles. That's twice too many! :O
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:07 PM   #45
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OK Firedog, So, this is what I have come up with. A used, inexpensive bike for conversion. https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/bik...747913025.html
Then, this electric kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-V-Electr...xZau:rk:8:pf:0

Am I on the right track for a first timer?
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:08 PM   #46
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If that fork is steel great! Bolt it up and go! If not, please consider a longer torque arm type lock vs. that little washer with lock tab that the kit shows.
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:41 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by TyCreek View Post
If that fork is steel great! Bolt it up and go! If not, please consider a longer torque arm type lock vs. that little washer with lock tab that the kit shows.
Sweet! Thanks! I'm gonna look up torque arm to see what they look like.
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:54 PM   #48
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Check out Detroit Moped Works. They fix or restore old mopeds. They run from a few hundred dollars to a couple of thousand. Plus they’re pretty cool guys making a business of old mopeds!
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Old 11-14-2018, 12:34 AM   #49
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I considered a moped, but seemed anything in my area was $500 to a grand that looked pretty rough...
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Old 11-14-2018, 02:52 PM   #50
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THOR #11959
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Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
OK Firedog, So, this is what I have come up with. A used, inexpensive bike for conversion. https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/bik...747913025.html
Then, this electric kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-V-Electr...xZau:rk:8:pf:0

Am I on the right track for a first timer?
The Kit looks good. The bike looks like a decent choice. Hybrids have higher gearing than mountain bike and better suited to e bike speeds. The Trek 900 Hybrid was only built in 1988 and I couldn't find any specs. In my market area (S.Cal) it wouldn't sell for that much unless perfect. Good luck.
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:55 PM   #51
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That's pretty old, huh... What about a bike w/front and/or rear suspension. I have a bad neck/back so, want something fairly upright. I'm 6'2" 250 lbs (on a good day) will a36v / 500w pull my weight fairly well?
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Old 11-16-2018, 05:21 AM   #52
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Front suspension would be a plus, but a quality steel frame(more flex than AL) and a 26 x 2.15 front tire is acceptable if you will primarily ride on pavement. You're a big guy so be sure the bike fits. Old, in good condition, is usually better than Walmart new. The '85 to '95 Japanese and Taiwan CroMo steel bikes are better than most new Chinese Al frames with cheap suspensions, bells and whistles. I especially like Japanese Miyata frames. His frames were used by Miyata, Univega, Bianchi, Trek and a dozen others. You may have own one and tossed it out. Young guys want '29ers, old farts like us that haven't found the magic of e assist don't want to ride at all. The 26" bikes are priced accordingly. That Trek would probably make a good e bike, but with such a short head tube it looks a bit too small for you.

Here's a 1992 Miyata SportRunner I wish you could test. The bike was $20; flat tires, and a rusty chain. The frame paint, stainless spokes, bearings and Al rims were all good. I tuned it up, added a larger front tire, larger chain ring, a cheap e kit and three 18v10.5ah batteries. The milk crate is for Costco runs and comes off in a minute. With that and a backpack I can carry a pile of heavy stuff.

I love it's ride even on dirt trails. It set it up with 54V, but I think you'd be happy with 36v500w as long as you don't expect the bike to do all the work up the hills. It will deliver over 1hp peak (750watts) and you should have no trouble holding 15-18 mph up a 6-7% grade. 24mph on the flat.

You might want to drop into a e bike shop and test ride a 36v500w bike just to check. Keep in mind, it will have fresh batteries (37-39v) that deliver more power than later in a longer ride. You'll be tempted to just spend the $2-5K, and take one home, but go home and think about it for a few days.
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Old 11-16-2018, 11:25 AM   #53
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Do they make that one with training wheels? I'd need them to stay up right
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Old 11-16-2018, 12:18 PM   #54
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Wouldn't that take all of the hilarity out of owning it?
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Old 11-16-2018, 12:19 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
No thank you please! I've crashed twice on motorcycles. That's twice too many! :O
Would you settle for "Bar-stool Racing"?

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1542374474
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Old 11-16-2018, 02:17 PM   #56
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Would you settle for "Bar-stool Racing"?

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1542374474
WAY high center of gravity! Wouldn't be good in the twisties! LOL Drag racing, maybe!
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Old 11-16-2018, 02:44 PM   #57
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If you power it with a 350 V-8: the center of gravity will be just about perfect.

Look up the "hossfly" racing bar-stool...


If there's a cool way to make the bones show through the hide: You can bet that I know about it!

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Old 11-19-2018, 01:03 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
If you power it with a 350 V-8: the center of gravity will be just about perfect.

Look up the "hossfly" racing bar-stool...


If there's a cool way to make the bones show through the hide: You can bet that I know about it!

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1542385706
Blaphemy! I'm a Mopar guy. That "should" be a 340 or 360 small block! https://www.facebook.com/pat.allen.9...9%3A1542592356
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:04 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Chance View Post
A very different take.

First thought is that 1-pound from mid section is enough energy to pedal a bike for about 100 miles, more or less depending on speed, so range is great.

Recharging can be a lot of fun too. Some of my friends go for a burger, fries, and a Shiner.

Pedaling, no matter how slowly, and we’ll lose weight, be more fit, and get to eat and drink more stuff. It’s a win-win.
Amen! I'll take pedal power over electric any day. Love my old Surly Cross Check and Surly Pacer.
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Old 11-21-2018, 11:41 PM   #60
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Yes, but it’s slow if you’re trying to get somewhere and you’re apt to get there sweaty and stinky. I ride my bicycle for exercise and my moped or motorcycle for transportation and sport.
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