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Old 06-22-2014, 05:14 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: West Virginia
Posts: 20
THOR #902
2015 Ace 29. Water Heater

Just purchased 2015 Thor ACE 29.2 and trying to turn on water heater. It has a 6 Gal Hot water tank with option of either heating with propane or 110.
Propane option works fine but when try to heat tank with 110 it does not warm up at all.
Any ideas?
Thanks (New First Time Motorhome operator)
Woody
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:37 PM   #2
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THOR #91
Hello and welcome. You said the water will heat off the gas option but not the electric option. How long did you give it? The gas heats quickly (think 15 min), electric heats slowly (think more than an hour). If still not working, it could be a bad anode. If no heat off either then you are probably on bypass and can burn anode out if no water in the tank.
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:59 PM   #3
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Thanks! It heated up with the LP and is staying hot with the electric.

Another question, as you enter the main door, I have a toggle switch marked battery, bottom of the switch says store, top of switch says use. When RV not on road, but hooked up to 110 at home or at campsite, should the position of the toggle switch be in the stored or use position? NOTE: When in use position and 110 connected, the converter runs continuously. Is this normal? Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:18 PM   #4
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THOR #124
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Originally Posted by woodridsge View Post
Thanks! It heated up with the LP and is staying hot with the electric.

Another question, as you enter the main door, I have a toggle switch marked battery, bottom of the switch says store, top of switch says use. When RV not on road, but hooked up to 110 at home or at campsite, should the position of the toggle switch be in the stored or use position? NOTE: When in use position and 110 connected, the converter runs continuously. Is this normal? Thanks!
In my opinion it should be in the "use" position. Because that is what you're doing.
As far as the converter fan running, it has to do that for cooling. The more load you put on it the faster it should run. Just to check it out, sometime when you are plugged in to electric, shut everything off that's drawing electricity. The fan should quiet right down and actually it should not run if you aren't drawing electric.
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:47 PM   #5
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Model: 2011 Four Winds 28Z
State: Michigan
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THOR #531
I generally leave my batteries connected when the RV is parked at the house and 120VAC is available. This keeps the batteries fully charged (although some maintenance is required - such as periodically inspecting the water levels in the batteries).
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:55 PM   #6
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THOR #902
new 2015 Thor Ace 29.2 leveler's

Just took the new ACE 29.2 out for shake down run, the automatic leveler's however put the front wheels off the ground. Is this normal? How do I access the manual on the leveling system or fix the issue, assuming there is an issue.
Thanks
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:12 PM   #7
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THOR #607
You should turn the battery disconnect to the off position when you store your coach for the non traveling season, whatever that may be for you. Keeping it on all the time for extended non use can cause the batteries to go bad.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:13 AM   #8
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Model: A.C.E. 27.1
State: California
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THOR #892
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodridsge View Post
Just took the new ACE 29.2 out for shake down run, the automatic leveler's however put the front wheels off the ground. Is this normal? How do I access the manual on the leveling system or fix the issue, assuming there is an issue.
Thanks
Was the floor of the rig level? At one of my frequent spots, my front wheels would be significantly off the ground with hyd. levelers (I use 5 inches of blocks under the r/front and 7 inches under the r/front on a 158" wheel base) if I had a 190" wheel base, I probably would need to add 3 - 4 inches to each side. I am hoping that there is enough travel in the hyd. system on the 27.1 I am buying to handle that spot with out putting blocks under the rams.
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:41 AM   #9
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THOR #607
It's good you put blocked under the wheels. Don't like the ties of the ground.
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:20 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by woodridsge View Post
Another question, as you enter the main door, I have a toggle switch marked battery, bottom of the switch says store, top of switch says use. When RV not on road, but hooked up to 110 at home or at campsite, should the position of the toggle switch be in the stored or use position? NOTE: When in use position and 110 connected, the converter runs continuously. Is this normal? Thanks!
I have yet to trace out my circuit, and wishing I had a schematic.... no actualy I'm dumfounded why thor doesn't issue one.....
Anyway, I plan to in short order trace out these circuits, BUT here's my assumption
Since the 12VDC stuff in the coach still operates when the rig is plugged in even if the battery switch (relay) is in "store" mode.... I'm thinking that this relay only isolates the battery from the system. This would make perfect sense to isolate the battery from parisitic loads while in storage
so
if you have your coach plugged in but the battery is in "store" mode, the battery will not be charged and maintained by the converter. This is bad for the battery.

My guess is that the fan on you converter is running becasue the converter is working overtime to charge your battery. I don't know what converter you have, but my fan only runs when ity's needed, and that is only when the thing is powering a load.

So, my recommendation is that when it's plugged into your house power, the battery isolation relay should be in the "use" position.
Once the battery is charged, then you could disconnect power and switch the relay to the "store" position if you'll not be using it for a while.

Just remember to check the water levels in the battery now and then if you leave it plugged in and charging, and if you disconnect it, you'll need to re-charge now and then. These batteries will self discharge, even if sitting with nothing connected to them.....

And if the battery is discharged it needs to be recharged as soon as practical....
and you should never discharge the battery too much..... some sources say not below 50% as a rule of thumb. For their true deep cycle batteries, Trojan says not below 20%.

One last comment on batteries.....
I'm guessing this is a brand new coach....
I suggest that you check your battery, or have it checked.
these things don't handle deep discharges well. If you let them go dead a few times it will kill the battery.
If you let the cells get dry, even partially, it can hurt or kill the battery....
Think about these things when they are on the dealer lot. they aren't typically plugged in.
They sit for a long period of time self discharging
salesman show them to folks and lights get swictched on and left that way overnight or longer....
& my bet is that dealers aren't religious about maintaining them regularly.
So..... safe bet your battery is not holding a charge and that is why the converter's fan is always on.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:09 AM   #11
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THOR #556
Regarding your water heater. You may have a bad heating element. Not a bad anode. Anodes don't burn out. In my opinion you are better off using only the manual feature of your leveling system. It's easy to master with a little practice. I often place leveling blocks under the wheels to "pre-level". I also put 8 inch blocks under the jacks to minimize their extension, thereby minimizing strain on the ram.
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:32 PM   #12
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State: Pennsylvania
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THOR #2287
Hi, I'm also new to class A I had a class C for many years. My water heater's does not heat on electric. I was told that there may be an on/off switch on back side of heater. How can I access the back of heater to check it.
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:34 PM   #13
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THOR #2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozzie322 View Post
Hi, I'm also new to class A I had a class C for many years. My water heater's does not heat on electric. I was told that there may be an on/off switch on back side of heater. How can I access the back of heater to check it.
It typically takes an hour + to heat to a noticeable temperature on 110.
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:56 PM   #14
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THOR #607
It shouldn't take an hour for your water to heat up. If it does you have a problem. If it won't heat on electric, check your breakers and fuses. Do you also has a gas selection? If so and it heats the water, I'd be willing to bet it's a breaker/fuse.
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Old 06-26-2015, 11:24 PM   #15
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THOR #2287
Thanks I never thought to check breakers.
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Old 06-26-2015, 11:43 PM   #16
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THOR #1469
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Originally Posted by Ozzie322 View Post
Thanks I never thought to check breakers.
Not sure what it is for but my hot water heater has a 2 amp blade fuse on the heater's control panel. I am going to down load the manual later and see if I can determine what that fuse is for. Right now my guess is that it controls the electronic ignition on the gas side, but again, I am not sure.
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Old 06-27-2015, 08:08 PM   #17
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Pennsylvania
Posts: 61
THOR #2287
I checked the breakers and fuses. My fuse panel has LEDs and when fuse is open they light up. I found a manual and on utube a guy showed a gas/electric water heater and heater element is in rear and there's a switch there. I don't know how to access or look at back of heater to see if there is a switch there.
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Old 06-27-2015, 09:04 PM   #18
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THOR #1469
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Originally Posted by Ozzie322 View Post
I checked the breakers and fuses. My fuse panel has LEDs and when fuse is open they light up. I found a manual and on utube a guy showed a gas/electric water heater and heater element is in rear and there's a switch there. I don't know how to access or look at back of heater to see if there is a switch there.
Somewhere inside you coach in the vicinity of the water heater there should be a drawer or an access panel that can be removed to access the back side of the water heater to include the water heater by pass valves. In my coach I access by removing one of the bedroom cabinet drawers. In my prior coach I removed a kitchen cabinet drawer. In other coaches it is behind an access panel that is held in place with screws. On thing in common it is on the inside of the coach right behind where the water heater is outside.
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Old 06-27-2015, 10:31 PM   #19
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Model: A.C.E. 29.2
State: Mississippi
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THOR #827
1. It does take longer for the water heater to warm up under 110. This is normal.
2. There is no anode in the Atwood water heater commonly installed in the ACE.
3. When using the "levelers" (actually stabilizers), NONE of the wheels should ever be off the ground.
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:29 AM   #20
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THOR #1793
I have a 29.3 ACE. After initial delivery "fixes", my electric water heater did not work but gas side did. I watched the YouTube videos and everything checked out ok. Turns out the factory wiring to water heater was too short and was wire nutted together under the cabinets between sink and oven. These wires came apart. Repair was made buy adding about a foot of wire to the connection.
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