4Ws: Winterizing, Weights, Warranty, & Water

[dkoldman]

On 11/22/21 we will have owned a RV for 2 years

A few topics (4Ws) have mesmerized me and thus tend to stand out. I thought I would create this blog to discuss my views from what little I have learned on what I called the 4Ws. It is important to note, most of my education has come from this forum; so I am easily influenced if it makes sense with my intended use of the RV.

Winterizing - I intend to winterized my RV later today 10/24/21. I plan an unwinterized trip this Thanksgiving so the full winterization I do today, is intended only for one month. It is just as a safeguard should weather suddenly drop below 30 degrees in Dallas / Ft. Worth area.

Warranty - My coach warranty ended last year 11/22/20, but the Mfg has continued to fix any and everything that was either reported before warranty expired, or an obvious an issue with the coach when sold. I bought brand new, so I do nothing but crow about the Service and Support I have received from Mfg and Service Dealer for warranty work. I will note my Service Dealer is not where I purchased the RV; so I will issue a grade of A+. So in a sense it is no different for me to the fact that I have always had my Lincoln Navigator serviced at a nearby Ford Dealership. It is relevant today because I intend to return my RV to the Dealer tomorrow to fix the last warranty items. They are suppose to replace trim on bedroom mirror and a bolt on the rear of the RV has either come off or loose as I can see a slight separation on passenger side of rear wall, about 8 inches.

While it is there, I have two items for them look at. Broken screen door latch, I ordered an aftermarket replacement myself, but I will not get my part until after the RV is in the shop. I am curious to see what the dealer does. And I found a 12vdc voltage drop or short on the wire that feeds my Kwikie Step; so it would randomly retract when the switch was in the Off position. When it was supposed to stay extended. This was a rando issue that may have worked properly 80% of the time. After a lot of trial and error; I proved it was the wire by adding my own 5 amp inline fuse from Chassis battery post direct to the back of the switch for 12vdc input. It works flawless today, but I am curious to see what they will do. Lippert has already sent me a new step controller under warranty, but I don't believe the issue is with the controller. Will see what the dealer says.

Weights - I have yet to understand the value or need for getting my RV weighed. This kind of started for me one morning while driving through Oklahoma, and I got flashed to pull into the Weigh Station. I didn't; so for a while I felt I was a fugitive to the State of Oklahoma. Out of guilt, I called the State to inquire ( when I was safely in Texas of course ) But they said RVs do not need to stop nor get weighed. So while I get the optional advantage of going to a scale just so you know; I don't get why it is told to so many as if they have to get weighed? So I have mildly been stubborn and refused to get a weight thus far. I mean it has been 2 years now, so if I do this two more times with no issues the RV will be 6 years old. Time to start looking at new tires anyway.

But for the purpose of the blog and given the fact that my RV goes to the Dealer tomorrow, I am going to remove all cargo and contents today. I will ask the dealership about the weight to see if they will do for me while they have it. If they laugh at me and tell me to forget about it; then when I pick it up, I will drive it by the Goodyear Tire & Truck Center I bought my spare tire from and see what they say. It will be completely empty.

Regardless to what those dealerships may say or do, before I reload, we will make a list and weigh every item before I reload; so I will know exactly what we are using against to OCCC which is 2005 pounds.

Water - We always depart on every trip with Full freshwater tank. After a recent 6 day trip to Colorado where we only used 2/3rd of a tank of Freshwater, I may reconsider my view here. We had a total of 12 showers and I even used the fresh water to wash the bugs off the front of the RV. We had a campsite with no utilities; never hooked up the entire trip even to drain tanks before we left. I have a 70 gallon tank. At a minimum my apologies for not understanding better those that do not always fill their freshwater tank to Full before each trip.

[JamieGeek]

Weighing it is mostly for piece of mind and insurance against a potential stop by a police officer, however in 20+ years of RV'ing I've never been pulled over (for anything, really) while RV'ing (e.g. towing trailer, 5er, or driving motorhome).

You're basically just checking how close your coach is to GVWR and GCWR (and if you wish to tow how much you can tow). The chassis is designed for a specific weight and you don't really want to overload it (although some coach manufacturers do sell units that are close to GVWR before loaded up...sigh).

Most of the time people are weighing to see if they can tow the car they want to tow.

I weighed our coach fully loaded (fuel, propane, water and passengers) exactly once shortly after we purchased it. (Sure I think I weighed it + a toad and one point just because I was curious.) I do usually weigh the toads if they are vastly different from prior toads (e.g. if I pull an Escape I really don't have to weigh it because I've already pulled a different Escape). I did find out that the EVs (Focus Electric, Chevy Bolt) weighed exactly what the specs said (e.g. no fuel to add to it).

Water: Our tank is only 30 gallons and usually travel about 1/3 - 1/2 full--enough to use on the road. If we're going to somewhere with no water hookup I'll fill the tank prior to travelling. On our big trip to Colorado/Utah we stayed at Dead Horse Point State Park for 4 nights (just electric hook up). We got there with a full tank of water and an extra 12 gallons of water in jugs in the toad.

[EA37TS]

I recently bypassed a scale in an “All Vehicles over 10,000 lbs” state. I was stopped, issued a warning and escorted back to the scales to weigh. After writing me the warning the trooper went after a fifth wheel that bypassed the scales as well. I did not bypass the scale before leaving the state a couple hours South.

I do weigh our rig at least twice per season so I knew we were well under GVWR and GCWR with TOAD attached.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

I recently bypassed a scale in an “All Vehicles over 10,000 lbs” state. I was stopped, issued a warning and escorted back to the scales to weigh. After writing me the warning the trooper went after a fifth wheel that bypassed the scales as well. I did not bypass the scale before leaving the state a couple hours South.

I do weigh our rig at least twice per season so I knew we were well under GVWR and GCWR with TOAD attached.

Are you able to say what state? If you have to ignore; no worries

I would not knowingly bypass a scale if I knew it was required by law. I was told they did not apply to RVs. Oklahoma was the first time I got flashed to pull over, but at the time it was sudden, unexpected and there was a big truck behind me that did pull over. Oklahoma Highway Patrol said that it only applied to Commercial vehicles. Texas has similar law. So if I was carry parts from a Thor Warehouse to commercially distribute I would have had to stop.

I am curious, if you stop at one of the highway weigh stations do they charge you for the weigh?

I have also been told that in Arkansas and in Texas if you pull in they will flag you to keep moving?

Where this is going, much like my plight with TPMS, I may get a weigh sooner or later one way or another. If for no other reason, I can say I have my weight

FWIW, My RV has been stripped down to just like it was when it was brand new except my Visio sound bar. I may remove it as well before taking to dealer tomorrow.

I am gonna try to my dealer to confirm the factory weight for me. When I get it back, I will make a list with weight with everything that I add back to the RV including the brushes, RV gel Gloss & Waxes. It may weigh more than I thought because my guess was 1400 pounds with full tank of fresh water. My coach is bone air dry right now.

[JamieGeek]

Forgot to mention, its super easy these days to weigh your rig, just find a CAT scale.

I believe if you setup the app you don't even have to go in, it charges you and the results show up in the app (of course the app is designed for commercial trucks where they have to regularly weigh themselves).

Not sure how much it costs these days but the last time I used a CAT scale it was around $10.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

Weighing it is mostly for piece of mind and insurance against a potential stop by a police officer, however in 20+ years of RV'ing I've never been pulled over (for anything, really) while RV'ing (e.g. towing trailer, 5er, or driving motorhome).

You're basically just checking how close your coach is to GVWR and GCWR (and if you wish to tow how much you can tow). The chassis is designed for a specific weight and you don't really want to overload it (although some coach manufacturers do sell units that are close to GVWR before loaded up...sigh).

Most of the time people are weighing to see if they can tow the car they want to tow.

I weighed our coach fully loaded (fuel, propane, water and passengers) exactly once shortly after we purchased it. (Sure I think I weighed it + a toad and one point just because I was curious.) I do usually weigh the toads if they are vastly different from prior toads (e.g. if I pull an Escape I really don't have to weigh it because I've already pulled a different Escape). I did find out that the EVs (Focus Electric, Chevy Bolt) weighed exactly what the specs said (e.g. no fuel to add to it).

Water: Our tank is only 30 gallons and usually travel about 1/3 - 1/2 full--enough to use on the road. If we're going to somewhere with no water hookup I'll fill the tank prior to travelling. On our big trip to Colorado/Utah we stayed at Dead Horse Point State Park for 4 nights (just electric hook up). We got there with a full tank of water and an extra 12 gallons of water in jugs in the toad.

Thanks this is helpful and in line with my thinking. My coach has been winterized and I removed everything we added to the coach. I have everything laid out in garage and over next week or two, I will get a weight for everything before adding back.

I follow the OCCC which is 2005 lbs but may need you to help me understand GVWR and GCWR? My two Yellow Stickers ( I call them my Lawyers ) are attached. My simple premise is as long as I don't go over 2005 lbs I am perfectly fine.

Note: I don't ever tow anything with the RV, but even if I did; I thought the Ball Weight was the only relevant factor?

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

Forgot to mention, its super easy these days to weigh your rig, just find a CAT scale.

I believe if you setup the app you don't even have to go in, it charges you and the results show up in the app (of course the app is designed for commercial trucks where they have to regularly weigh themselves).

Not sure how much it costs these days but the last time I used a CAT scale it was around $10.

I use the app and the last time I went across the scales it was 11.00. Small price to pay to know where you stand.

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Thanks this is helpful and in line with my thinking. My coach has been winterized and I removed everything we added to the coach. I have everything laid out in garage and over next week or two, I will get a weight for everything before adding back.

I follow the OCCC which is 2005 lbs but may need you to help me understand GVWR and GCWR? My two Yellow Stickers ( I call them my Lawyers ) are attached. My simple premise is as long as I don't go over 2005 lbs I am perfectly fine.

Note: I don't ever tow anything with the RV, but even if I did; I thought the Ball Weight was the only relevant factor?

They calculate OCCC by taking the empty weight and subtract it from GVWR. OCCC isn't really a gospel weight because you may find that when you weigh your coach empty and subtract that value from GVWR you get more than the placard's OCCC.

Ball weight is one thing but really isn't that important when towing a toad: 4 down there literally is like 20lbs of ball weight, a dolly puts more but not much--maybe 200lbs. Ball weight comes more into play if you're pulling a trailer proper (car hauler, utility trailer, boat, etc.).

GVWR and GCWR is used as follows:

GVWR = max RV weight. So this is the total scale value of the RV all loaded up not including the toad/trailer.
GCWR = max RV+toad/trailer.

The lawyer says don't go over either GVWR or GCWR but sometimes its hard not to.

If I use a concrete example (our Axis): Our loaded weight (full gas, water, propane, 3 people on board, ready to camp) was 11,400 lbs, our GVWR is 12,500 lbs. This means we can load the RV up with an additional 1100lbs.

This also means that our GCWR of 18,500 lbs leaves room for 7,100lb of towing capability--however our 2014 hitch is only rated for 5,000lbs so the max we can legally tow is 5,000lbs. (All the cars we've towed have been around 3,600 lbs with 4,000 lbs being the maximum we've towed.)

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

They calculate OCCC by taking the empty weight and subtract it from GVWR. OCCC isn't really a gospel weight because you may find that when you weigh your coach empty and subtract that value from GVWR you get more than the placard's OCCC.

Ball weight is one thing but really isn't that important when towing a toad: 4 down there literally is like 20lbs of ball weight, a dolly puts more but not much--maybe 200lbs. Ball weight comes more into play if you're pulling a trailer proper (car hauler, utility trailer, boat, etc.).

GVWR and GCWR is used as follows:

GVWR = max RV weight. So this is the total scale value of the RV all loaded up not including the toad/trailer.
GCWR = max RV+toad/trailer.

The lawyer says don't go over either GVWR or GCWR but sometimes its hard not to.

If I use a concrete example (our Axis): Our loaded weight (full gas, water, propane, 3 people on board, ready to camp) was 11,400 lbs, our GVWR is 12,500 lbs. This means we can load the RV up with an additional 1100lbs.

This also means that our GCWR of 18,500 lbs leaves room for 7,100lb of towing capability--however our 2014 hitch is only rated for 5,000lbs so the max we can legally tow is 5,000lbs. (All the cars we've towed have been around 3,600 lbs with 4,000 lbs being the maximum we've towed.)

Ok, so I need Bob here to help me with this math. He can explain and make me smile at the same time

But I am all in now, so let me see if I follow.

Point 1
Per my yellow sticker my 2019 Sunstar 29ve GVWR = 18,000
Your Axis has GVWR 12,500

Those are material facts, does everyone agree to accept the GVWR from Yellow sticker; or are some doubting the Yellow sticker ratings for that number as being incorrect?


Point 2
You explained GCWR; but I had to google it to be clear with it GCWR is the total weight of the truck/RV pulling the trailer and the trailer itself.

So since I never tow, is it fair or safe for me to say that GCWR is irrelevant?
But to show that I may be following I understand that my Hitch Rating is 5,000 lbs. So hypothetically if I am pulling anything; my Gross Combined weight should NOT exceed 23,000 lbs?

Point 3
Given that the Yellow sticker (be careful now because that is my Lawyer) says my GVWR is 18,000 lbs and given the other Sticker Lawyer #2 says my OCCC is 2005 lbs; is it fair for me to say that the assumptive weight of my RV with no gas, water, propane or people should be 15,995 lbs? 18,000 - 2005 = 15,995 lbs

If all of the above is true, then....
If I were to get a weight now, it would be relevant to know how close I am to the 15,995 lb weight? Note: My RV is Full of gas and Full of Propane right now so I would have to do the batch to back that out.

And to bring it really home, if I were to stopped by the authorities or stop at highway weigh station, with no toad or trailer, the government officials ( oops a bad word ) I mean the local law enforcement officials are only concerned if total weight is over 18,000 lbs?

and to really bring it home, for $11... that is less than $1 / month; I can put this issue to rest once and for all If so; this may be a cheaper concession than I had to make when I was forced to buy a TPMS System


But let me throw a twist.. where does the tire air pressure fit in here? Seems to me, my 82 psi tire rating for front and back is based on 7,000 lbs front axis and 12,000 rear axle, see Yellow Sticker #1. So if I were heavier requiring more air pressure, wouldn't I also be illegal? My tires minimum air pressure is 80 psi, so Yellow Sticker #1 that tells me to load at 82 psi seem to be right.

[JamieGeek]

By George I think you've got it.

The Yellow sticker is the OEM's specifications. You can see them on Winnebago's website here:
https://www.winnebago.com/models/pro...fications=true
Your Sunseeker is built on Ford's F-53 chassis where the GVWR, and GCWR numbers come from. See here:
https://www.ford.com/commercial-truc...f53-motorhome/

Now I don't think there is any legalities with tires. e.g. the local law officer won't stop you and pull out a tire gauge "sir I see here you're running 5 lbs under, here is your ticket"--that won't happen.

Once you've weighed your coach, however, you can take the axle weights and look on your tire manufacturer's website to figure out what PSI you should be running. Many of the tire OEM's have charts for truck tires showing what PSI should be set for what weight. Look at Page 12 of this PDF for Michelin tires:
https://www.michelintruck.com/assets...k_Sept2011.pdf

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

By George I think you've got it.

The Yellow sticker is the OEM's specifications. You can see them on Winnebago's website here:
https://www.winnebago.com/models/pro...fications=true
Your Sunseeker is built on Ford's F-53 chassis where the GVWR, and GCWR numbers come from. See here:
https://www.ford.com/commercial-truc...f53-motorhome/

Now I don't think there is any legalities with tires. e.g. the local law officer won't stop you and pull out a tire gauge "sir I see here you're running 5 lbs under, here is your ticket"--that won't happen.

Once you've weighed your coach, however, you can take the axle weights and look on your tire manufacturer's website to figure out what PSI you should be running. Many of the tire OEM's have charts for truck tires showing what PSI should be set for what weight. Look at Page 12 of this PDF for Michelin tires:
https://www.michelintruck.com/assets...k_Sept2011.pdf

Ok; so I am all the way to 3rd base 18,000 lbs is the magic number for me as that is the GVWR. I have been proceeding that as long as I don't carry more that 2005 lbs including fresh water I was okay. My guess with water included has been 1,400 pounds. But I have all of my stuff in the garage now. I will weigh piece by piece to see what I come up with.

With respect to tires. My belligerence around weight all stems from those crowing to get a weight to get the correct mfg psi rating for the tires? I still don't buy it and question that logic for most cases in favor of the Yellow Stickers.

Here is why. First my tires are Goodyear Not Michelin. My specifications are attached in new picture. 24570R/19.5 or https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs...care-guide.pdf

*The way I see it is simple. My Yellow sticker say 82 psi. ( That is my Lawyer#1)
*Lowest possible air pressure for the G670s in 19.5 for my Mfg date is 80 psi
*The 82 psi is based on 7,000 front axle 3,500 per tire and 12,000 rear axle 3,000 per tire which assumes I have maxed out the 2005 OCCC (per my Lawyer #2 )
*When I drive my RV, the actual pressure rises to at least 95 psi
*I would have to be at or near 4,000 lbs per tire on front or rear to actually increase my cold tire pressure to 95 psi.
* The fact that I don't believe I exceed the OCCC of 2005 lbs says there is ABSOLUTELY no FREAKING way I am so heavy that I need MORE air in my tires

Besides, most seek softer rides by reducing air pressure. As you can see per Goodyear Specs, I can't reduced my air pressure below 80 psi. Lawyer #3 from Goodyear Corpoartion.

I don't need a weight to confirm any of the above; it is right there on the the 1st Yellow sticker and the Goodyear G670 Tire Specs. It is why I believe getting weights to determine tire pressure is overrated. In fact; I will roll the dice and take it a step further, if I were to learn that I do in fact have the excess weight that would require a higher tire pressure by Goodyear, then I would also be exceeding the GVWR of 18,000 lbs from Winnebago & Ford.

[JamieGeek]

Right sometimes there isn't much in the range to play with.

Also note: All the tires specs are cold. You don't use any of the charts or ratings to try to target a specific warm tire PSI--that is a moving target.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

Right sometimes there isn't much in the range to play with.

Also note: All the tires specs are cold. You don't use any of the charts or ratings to try to target a specific warm tire PSI--that is a moving target.

Agree, but my point was the Yellow sticker calls for cold pressure of 82 psi. However when driving the effective psi is higher. I just extrapolated to theoretically determine how much weight I would have to have in order to justify 90 or 95 psi, both would exceed the the GVWR. To translate that from my view, is that I am not gonna add more pressure to my tires so I could illegally carry more weight.

Since this is my first owned RV, it is also why I dug into this deeper, but you can see why in my case the range is very narrow; so when I am told I don't know what my tire pressure should be until I get a weigh, I disagree with the statement because I have my Yellow stickers that tell me what to do.

Now if I didn't have the Yellow stickers or if I bought non OEM tires for my F53, I would agree the weight to the new tire Mfg specifications for tire pressure would be required.

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Agree, but my point was the Yellow sticker calls for cold pressure of 82 psi. However when driving the effective psi is higher. I just extrapolated to theoretically determine how much weight I would have to have in order to justify 90 or 95 psi, both would exceed the the GVWR. To translate that from my view, is that I am not gonna add more pressure to my tires so I could illegally carry more weight.

Since this is my first owned RV, it is also why I dug into this deeper, but you can see why in my case the range is very narrow; so when I am told I don't know what my tire pressure should be until I get a weigh, I disagree with the statement because I have my Yellow stickers that tell me what to do.

Now if I didn't have the Yellow stickers or if I bought non OEM tires for my F53, I would agree the weight to the new tire Mfg specifications for tire pressure would be required.

Your yellow sticker lists the max pressure at the maximum axle weight. For example Michelin says my maximum pressure is 110 psi and that is what is on the stickers.

Based on my actual weight going across the scales Michelin says I can reduce my pressures to 100 psi. I have dropped the pressures to 102 which has significantly improved the ride.

[Chateau_Nomad]

dk - just move to Ohio... the land of "if the engine runs and it rolls, it's legal"!

No exhaust system required... noise is no concern.
Body rust is no factor... as long as the axles are still attached and it rolls.

And... none of those inconvenient inspections! I'm guessing tires could be non-existent (steel rims on pavement).

If she rolls... you're good!!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

Your yellow sticker lists the max pressure at the maximum axle weight. For example Michelin says my maximum pressure is 110 psi and that is what is on the stickers.

Based on my actual weight going across the scales Michelin says I can reduce my pressures to 100 psi. I have dropped the pressures to 102 which has significantly improved the ride.

You state "Your yellow sticker lists the max pressure at the maximum axle weight." ? Are you talking my sticker or a Yellow sticker in general?

Did you see MY Yellow Sticker I posted Post #6? It says 82 psi. So based on your statement 82 psi would be maximum!!! Further if you look at my Goodyear Specs(post #11) you will see that for my tire 80 psi is the lowest!!!. So in my case supported by your statements the Actual weight has no legal relevance other than if I was to illegally exceed my GVWR 18,000 pounds which I would never knowingly do.

It looks like I would have to add 4400 pounds over the GVWR of 18,000 lbs to be required to set my tires to 90 PSI Cold Inflation per Goodyear specifications?

The only thing that I concede a weight would do based on what I learned from JamieGeek is to validate whether or not I am over the GVWR, but it has no way to extrapolate or extend to tell me a better weight for my tire pressure. Winnebago, Ford and Goodyear says 82 psi there is no other best answer if I am within the legal weight allowed.

What am I missing?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

dk - just move to Ohio... the land of "if the engine runs and it rolls, it's legal"!

No exhaust system required... noise is no concern.
Body rust is no factor... as long as the axles are still attached and it rolls.

And... none of those inconvenient inspections! I'm guessing tires could be non-existent (steel rims on pavement).

If she rolls... you're good!!

I came very close to launching my career in Ohio. Actually Lorain OH outside of Cleveland. When I graduated I had job offer with Ford, but I also got a job offer with Rockwell International in Richardson, Texas outside of Dallas. Flying into Cleveland off that lake and the rough winds scared the crap out of me.

But I am a Legal Beagle, I am rolling by the law. I am just trying to follow why so many believe that following the Yellow sticker can steer you wrong? Unless you modify the chassis or buy some non OEM tire, I just find it hard to believe the yellow sticker is wrong.

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I came very close to launching my career in Ohio. Actually Lorain OH outside of Cleveland. When I graduated I had job offer with Ford, but I also got a job offer with Rockwell International in Richardson, Texas outside of Dallas. Flying into Cleveland off that lake and the rough winds scared the crap out of me.

But I am a Legal Beagle, I am rolling by the law. I am just trying to follow why so many believe that following the Yellow sticker can steer you wrong? Unless you modify the chassis or buy some non OEM tire, I just find it hard to believe the yellow sticker is wrong.

Nobody is saying the yellow sticker is wrong. We are saying there is a better method or manner of doing things after the coach is weighted.

Do it the way you want since you appear to have convinced yourself your methods are right.

Safe travels

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

Nobody is saying the yellow sticker is wrong. We are saying there is a better method or manner of doing things after the coach is weighted.

Do it the way you want since you appear to have convinced yourself your methods are right.

Safe travels

That is not a fair statement. I don't have a method. I am just following the Yellow sticker, the Mfg recommendation and the Goodyear tire. I am being told by some on the forum that getting an actual weight will yield me a more accurate tire pressure based on my tire Mfg Specification? I have posted the Goodyear specifications and my Yellow sticker and it is not possible unless I am missing something. Thus far; no one has been able to point that out.

By law (not my way) my GVWR should not exceed 18,000. If within the guidelines of 18,000 lbs; Goodyear says 82psi (80 psi - 85 psi) for my tires, and so does my Yellow sticker. I have to get up to 22,400 pounds before Goodyear specs says tire pressure should increase 90 psi, but that is far north of my GVWR but within GCWR; if I were towing something which I don't.

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

That is not a fair statement. I don't have a method. I am just following the Yellow sticker, the Mfg recommendation and the Goodyear tire. I am being told by some on the forum that getting an actual weight will yield me a more accurate tire pressure based on my tire Mfg Specification? I have posted the Goodyear specifications and my Yellow sticker and it is not possible unless I am missing something. Thus far; no one has been able to point that out.

By law (not my way) my GVWR should not exceed 18,000. If within the guidelines of 18,000 lbs; Goodyear says 82psi (80 psi - 85 psi) for my tires, and so does my Yellow sticker. I have to get up to 22,400 pounds before Goodyear specs says tire pressure should increase 90 psi, but that is far north of my GVWR but within GCWR; if I were towing something which I don't.

Ah but if you weigh your coach and it comes in at, say, 15,000 lbs instead of 18,000 lbs then you can use the 15,000 lbs value to lookup on the Goodyear chart and set your PSI accordingly. Don't have to use the MAX weight to set the tires; you'd want to use the actual weight.

There is nothing wrong with it either way. People like to reduce the PSI to get a softer ride so they look it up on the chart to see if they have any leeway on tire pressure.

People also mod the suspentions like crazy looking for a better ride (however they want to define that).

To each his own.