Vegas survives 14 degrees

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by reminckv

I ran a 1500w heater a few times too until I did some research and found numerous cases of the cheap stab style receptacles burning up. I run a couple on 750w now and monitor receptacle temps.

Our 1500 watt receptacle is not hot but sent a msg to our 30 year rv tech

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Our 1500 watt receptacle is not hot but sent a msg to our 30 year rv tech

He is 31 year rv tech now

Tell him, I am back home from traveling North and I still could not get any of my pipes to freeze without RV Antifreeze, but I will keep trying. My theory is the water drain/air blow method is keeping pipes from freezing

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

He is 31 year rv tech now

Tell him, I am back home from traveling North and I still could not get any of my pipes to freeze without RV Antifreeze, but I will keep trying. My theory is the water drain/air blow method is keeping pipes from freezing

For the 5th time MONTANA

[reminckv]

The microwave doesn't run for hours at a time like a space heater does. No, I never use an extension cord with a space heater. Read a couple of articles on space heater safety and consider the flammability of everything in an RV. The problem with rv plugs is the way the connections are made. You don't have to trust me, but anyone that has expertise in RV electrical has likely seen multiple receptacles damaged by using a space heater.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by reminckv

The microwave doesn't run for hours at a time like a space heater does. No, I never use an extension cord with a space heater. Read a couple of articles on space heater safety and consider the flammability of everything in an RV. The problem with rv plugs is the way the connections are made. You don't have to trust me, but anyone that has expertise in RV electrical has likely seen multiple receptacles damaged by using a space heater.

It is not about trust, if a plug melts there are a number of factors that could cause, a cheap plug is one. I just tried to think of others as I am now on winter #3 and never seen anything similar. I also think that cheap can be in many forms, but the amount of metal used for conduction for ANY 15 amp plug may be controlled by the industry? Unless your RV Mfg bought some black market plugs to save what $.63 / plug

All my plugs are https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Group...a-903182245363 which are used primarily in RVs and boats.

Your post caught my attention, because it would suggest I need four 750 watt heaters to replicate what you suggest. If they are truly what you suggest, you might consider replacing them as they are a true fire hazard.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

For the 5th time MONTANA

For the 6th time, are there still Grizzlies in MONTANA at Campsites?

https://www.cbsnews.com/news/grizzly...-killed-loose/

But for you, if I ever spend a winter in Montana, I may use the RV Antifreeze if for no other reason because I know I will have nothing else to do to the RV for a long time.

[reminckv]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

It is not about trust, if a plug melts there are a number of factors that could cause, a cheap plug is one. I just tried to think of others as I am now on winter #3 and never seen anything similar. I also think that cheap can be in many forms, but the amount of metal used for conduction for ANY 15 amp plug may be controlled by the industry? Unless your RV Mfg bought some black market plugs to save what $.63 / plug

All my plugs are https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Group...a-903182245363 which are used primarily in RVs and boats.

Your post caught my attention, because it would suggest I need four 750 watt heaters to replicate what you suggest. If they are truly what you suggest, you might consider replacing them as they are a true fire hazard.

First off, what I'm suggesting is that you not run a 1500w device continuously on your stab type receptacles. If you choose to move forward running two 1500w space heaters trusting RV industry electrical wiring standards and practices, that's your choice. My second suggestion is to do your own research on the topic.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by reminckv

First off, what I'm suggesting is that you not run a 1500w device continuously on your stab type receptacles. If you choose to move forward running two 1500w space heaters trusting RV industry electrical wiring standards and practices, that's your choice. My second suggestion is to do your own research on the topic.

I guess you would have to define "continuously"? Both of my heaters are 1500 watt Laskos. Both have electronic thermostats with remote. Normal set point 72*. We turn them on and leave them on; they turn on off based on the program and ECO mode if set. I have seen them as low as 30* and warm up to about 70* after about 2 hours. I suspect that is as long as I may have what you may consider continuous? But given it is my 3rd year with the RV and the heaters, I think I can speak with certainty they do not get hot, and my receptacle is fine. But let's say next week I see where a receptacle has started to melt? It could be defective heater drawing 12.2 amps power, but not producing 750 watts of heat so it may run twice as long.

I did verify my receptacle is UL listed and CSA approved

Questioning if one wish to trust the RV Industry that a 15 amp receptacle can handle 12 amps continuous supply is like saying one wish to NOT trust the RV Industry that RV tires rated to handle 80 mph speeds is too trusting; so you only drive at 40 mph. If I believed the RV Mfg put cheap tires on my RV; I would buy my own tires on and not have that worry.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by reminckv

First off, what I'm suggesting is that you not run a 1500w device continuously on your stab type receptacles. If you choose to move forward running two 1500w space heaters trusting RV industry electrical wiring standards and practices, that's your choice. My second suggestion is to do your own research on the topic.

Most people are aware of the issues with the RV stab type receptacles but as long as they are properly installed and aren't in a corrosive environment they handle space heaters just as well as household "strip and insert" receptacles. Are they as good as the screw terminal connections? No, but I have run space heaters in RVs for 20 years with a receptacle issue.

[reminckv]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Most people are aware of the issues with the RV stab type receptacles but as long as they are properly installed and aren't in a corrosive environment they handle space heaters just as well as household "strip and insert" receptacles. Are they as good as the screw terminal connections? No, but I have run space heaters in RVs for 20 years with a receptacle issue.

The one thing I would add is "aren't subject to excessive vibration". If you accept that addition, here's MY summary. If properly installed, not in a corrosive environment (read moisture), and not in vibration prone environment they're as good as strip and insert which most electricians I know or read won't use either. I think we've made it clear that we disagree on this topic. That's fine. I have learned a lot about my rig from you and thank you for that. Hope you guys have a great day.

[Chateau_Nomad]

I'm guilty of using "cheap" receptacles/switches from the bins at the big box stores (Lowe's & Home Depot). Here's an excellent comparison...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4QYE8BEFzU

Real? ...or marketing gimmick?

[Scubawise]

Hi Kurt my 30 year tech called me and said all is well especially if on 20 amp fuse. When he installed our inverter..he installed a separate fuse box since entire MH wired to inverter and plug with heater is on 20 amp .thx all

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

I'm guilty of using "cheap" receptacles/switches from the bins at the big box stores (Lowe's & Home Depot). Here's an excellent comparison...

Real? ...or marketing gimmick?

That's a dishonest comparison.

First he's using a receptacle that came out of a house fire (not the cause of the fire, just damaged by it) for the "bad" example vs a brand new out of the box receptacle for the "good" receptacle.

Second, he has two different format receptacles: the older dual rounded face for the "bad", and the more modern single rectangle for the "good".

Third, he's comparing a 15 amp "bad" outlet to a 20 amp "good" outlet.

Fourth, he's using a marketing term when he says "spec grade". Receptacles are marketed using terms such as general grade, specification grade, heavy duty, industrial grade, commercial grade, residential grade, hospital grade, specialty grade, and fed spec. There are, however, only four receptacle identities that are specified in the Standard for Attachment Plugs and Receptacles, ANSI/UL 498 and CSA CAN/C22.2 No. 42-99, General Use Receptacles, Attachment Plugs, and Similar Wiring Devices. They are general use, hospital, federal specifications (fed. spec.), and combination hospital/fed. spec. No contractor is going to use anything other than general grade (residential grade) in new construction housing. "spec grade" is not an official marking for any of the categories.

Nobody's going to argue that a screw applying friction/pressure against bare wire isn't better than the strip and stab connection, but if you are going to make that comparison whys introduce all the "optics". It's worse than a political ad.

[cmills1334]

yes still bears in montana

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by cmills1334

yes still bears in montana

Well we are looking to move to NM.
Learned a lot on our 4 month winter trip.
Wife hates bears