Batteries

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

you try and remember all the connections without a picture... ugh

Lets see the red goes to pos,,, somewhere...

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by txc2936@yahoo.com

you try and remember all the connections without a picture... ugh

Lets see the red goes to pos,,, somewhere...

Except for the red that goes to the negative post......

Color coding is not a Thor strong point.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by txc2936@yahoo.com

you try and remember all the connections without a picture... ugh

Lets see the red goes to pos,,, somewhere...

No you put all the cables on one of the red posts, then go inside and flip switches one by one, every time something does not comes move one of the wires to black post. If their are doubts have the dealer look at it to verify it is wired right

On the serious side, I love clean and your batteries are clean. I tried desperately to keep my compartment like that, but it would also corrode despite my use of battery cleaners and treating the posts with NCP2 corrosion prevention. I finally got rid of by buying AGMs. I have the Ever start in two or my cars and they are clean like your picture.

QUESTION:
Is that some type of battery top Inverter on your battery?

[Poppymike]

I recently replaced both coach batterie as well as the engine battery. My question is, what could be the problem if nothing in the coach is working off the batteries? I have a 2017 Thir Quantum class “C”

[Geterdun]

Originally Posted by Poppymike

I recently replaced both coach batterie as well as the engine battery. My question is, what could be the problem if nothing in the coach is working off the batteries? I have a 2017 Thir Quantum class “C”

Wired the new batteries wrong
Left cables off the new batteries
Tripped the 50 amp breaker in the battery compartment
USE/STORE switch in STORE or fuse on the latching relay blown
Reverse Polarity fuses in the Power Center blown.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Geterdun

Wired the new batteries wrong
Left cables off the new batteries
Tripped the 50 amp breaker in the battery compartment
USE/STORE switch in STORE or fuse on the latching relay blown
Reverse Polarity fuses in the Power Center blown.

You might have more than one breaker in the battery compartment and don't forget to check the engine compartment for a breaker. My coach has 3 high amp breakers, one in the engine compartment, two in the Battery compartment. The breakers in the battery compartment are tricky, one of the breakers is very easy to see. the second breaker is mounted much farther into the bay. It is not hard to reach, once you know it is there, just hard to see.

[OldWEB]

Originally Posted by Poppymike

I recently replaced both coach batterie as well as the engine battery. My question is, what could be the problem if nothing in the coach is working off the batteries? I have a 2017 Thir Quantum class “C”

Recently... again?
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...ies-30889.html

[ducksface]

One of my breakers in the steps battery box is routed on top of another hiding it from all view except a narrow sliver while on your back looking up from under the coach.
Then you reset it using a screwdriver tip as a probe/wedge/finger.
That Damn step/battery bix is about to become a tool box. I'm moving my batteries to the passenger front bin.

[MLP]

Originally Posted by txc2936@yahoo.com

you try and remember all the connections without a picture... ugh

Lets see the red goes to pos,,, somewhere...

Easy. You do it the old fashioned way, Mark or tag the cables. "+ L" "- LC" etc.. It is even easier with modern label marking tape. I use the cell phone camera, but I am surprised that people forget how it used to be done.

[Geterdun]

Originally Posted by Poppymike

I have recently replaced the coach batteries in my 2017 Quantum class C motorhome. My problem is the batteries will not stay charged. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by Poppymike

I recently replaced both coach batterie as well as the engine battery. My question is, what could be the problem if nothing in the coach is working off the batteries? I have a 2017 Thir Quantum class “C”

OP ghosted the same thread twice, almost a year apart. Is that some kind of record?

[Pillbox]

Danger….
Glitch in the matrix.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Geterdun

OP ghosted the same thread twice, almost a year apart. Is that some kind of record?

When you factor in 5 total posts, all on the same thread and same root cause problem twice, yes that is some kind of record.

I think OP has a legitimate issue that is killing his batteries; but seems to be reluctant to share all of the need to know information, so no one can extract the cause.

One thing I have learned since owning a RV, there is no such thing as a bad battery based on it's own specifications, only one that has been mistreated or abused. There was nothing wrong with my two NAPA 65ah FLA house batteries, but not enough ah for me; and because of the way I used I was constantly draining it down with overnight drama. I bought the vMax 125 ah batteries and I can't drain them down unless I leave Norcold fridge on Inverter with no alternator running, or if have to run propane heater due to freezing temperatures 3-3 days in a row with no recharge from genny or SP.

[MLP]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

When you factor in 5 total posts, all on the same thread and same root cause problem twice, yes that is some kind of record.

I think OP has a legitimate issue that is killing his batteries; but seems to be reluctant to share all of the need to know information, so no one can extract the cause.

One thing I have learned since owning a RV, there is no such thing as a bad battery based on it's own specifications, only one that has been mistreated or abused. There was nothing wrong with my two NAPA 65ah FLA house batteries, but not enough ah for me; and because of the way I used I was constantly draining it down with overnight drama. I bought the vMax 125 ah batteries and I can't drain them down unless I leave Norcold fridge on Inverter with no alternator running, or if have to run propane heater due to freezing temperatures 3-3 days in a row with no recharge from genny or SP.

With 500 watts of solar on the roof, I have not had a problem. I do load test them each year, but next year when they turn four years old I will load test then twice a year.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by MLP

With 500 watts of solar on the roof, I have not had a problem. I do load test them each year, but next year when they turn four years old I will load test then twice a year.

I have to admit, the jury is still out on the longevity I may get with the vMax Tanks. They are going on 3 years old now. I have not load tested them, but I consistently run my AGS when on the road. I can't tell you how many times the genny fired up scaring the crap out of me only to learn that I had forgot to turn inverter off so gas would take over the fridge, or just a few weeks ago the propane heater ran constantly with a dramatic drop in temperature. Note my AGS is set to start genny at 12.5vdc

I am sure if I had Solar it would be nice, but I don't think it could counter my needs or maybe simply not what I want. i.e. I hear so much bad talk about the Green monster that I just try to use it as much as possible. So in one way or perspective, if I had solar, it may keep my AGS from starting the genny and my genny may only be used for AC needs or when exercising. Today, I never need to exercise my genny, it is getting use monthly for real needs one way or the other.

I am also weight sensitive since getting my 6,140# Flat Tow Really glad I didn't buy those Snap Pads as they are heavy.

Now I do have need for solar if you got ideas. My motorcycles, especially the Harley has to be on a trickle charger 24/7 or it will be dead with in a week. Would be nice to have a solar panel at home to charge both bikes.

[MLP]

I use my generator at home when I work on the inside. It can get hot fast and the AC's load it down fine for running the generator.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I have to admit, the jury is still out on the longevity I may get with the vMax Tanks. They are going on 3 years old now. I have not load tested them, but I consistently run my AGS when on the road. I can't tell you how many times the genny fired up scaring the crap out of me only to learn that I had forgot to turn inverter off so gas would take over the fridge, or just a few weeks ago the propane heater ran constantly with a dramatic drop in temperature. Note my AGS is set to start genny at 12.5vdc

I am sure if I had Solar it would be nice, but I don't think it could counter my needs or maybe simply not what I want. i.e. I hear so much bad talk about the Green monster that I just try to use it as much as possible. So in one way or perspective, if I had solar, it may keep my AGS from starting the genny and my genny may only be used for AC needs or when exercising. Today, I never need to exercise my genny, it is getting use monthly for real needs one way or the other.

I am also weight sensitive since getting my 6,140# Flat Tow Really glad I didn't buy those Snap Pads as they are heavy.

Now I do have need for solar if you got ideas. My motorcycles, especially the Harley has to be on a trickle charger 24/7 or it will be dead with in a week. Would be nice to have a solar panel at home to charge both bikes.

For a 100 watt panel, a 20 amp controller and associated pre-made cables I'd estimate you'd have around $240 invested? That's with Rich Solar. Honestly if you have access to a 15 amp electric outlet - I'd use a couple cheap trickle chargers. I keep one plugged in to the Wrangler in the garage 24/7, and one on the lawn tractor in the shed.

I'll have two 100 watt panels sitting idle shortly, and I still have the original 30 amp cheapo PWM controller (replaced with a 40 amp MPPT). I considered setting them up as a solar trickle charger, but I'm likely selling them on Marketplace because the setup is too much of a hassle - considering the simplicity of my existing plug-in trickle chargers.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

For a 100 watt panel, a 20 amp controller and associated pre-made cables I'd estimate you'd have around $240 invested? That's with Rich Solar. Honestly if you have access to a 15 amp electric outlet - I'd use a couple cheap trickle chargers. I keep one plugged in to the Wrangler in the garage 24/7, and one on the lawn tractor in the shed.

I'll have two 100 watt panels sitting idle shortly, and I still have the original 30 amp cheapo PWM controller (replaced with a 40 amp MPPT). I considered setting them up as a solar trickle charger, but I'm likely selling them on Marketplace because the setup is too much of a hassle - considering the simplicity of my existing plug-in trickle chargers.

I use two Battery Tender Jr 750ma Battery Charger and Maintainer, they last about 4 years. I have 15 amp outlets wired just for the Motorcycles. I was just trying to come up with application for me that would work well to justify solar. My larger point was that if my RV had parasitic draw like the Harley, I would need or want Solar trickle charge too. It is the Security system on the Harley that draws down the battery. The Yamaha can go 20 times longer than the Harley.

It has been rain or cloudy last few days. I just checked and my House batteries still show full charge and chassis battery is at 12.8vdc. No shore power. I am not even plugged up to the Pedestal. Disconnect Switch is OFF though. My Disconnect Switch shuts EVERYTHING down, including Propane Detector.

I don't think I will ever get Solar for this coach.

6 years from now, I could see a new RV that will likely be all Electric, Lithium and Solar, so my day may be coming.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I use two Battery Tender Jr 750ma Battery Charger and Maintainer, they last about 4 years. I have 15 amp outlets wired just for the Motorcycles. I was just trying to come up with application for me that would work well to justify solar. My larger point was that if my RV had parasitic draw like the Harley, I would need or want Solar trickle charge too. It is the Security system on the Harley that draws down the battery. The Yamaha can go 20 times longer than the Harley.

It has been rain or cloudy last few days. I just checked and my House batteries still show full charge and chassis battery is at 12.8vdc. No shore power. I am not even plugged up to the Pedestal. Disconnect Switch is OFF though. My Disconnect Switch shuts EVERYTHING down, including Propane Detector.

I don't think I will ever get Solar for this coach.

6 years from now, I could see a new RV that will likely be all Electric, Lithium and Solar, so my day may be coming.

The key to avoiding drained house batteries is having a disconnect switch that ABSOLUTELY disconnects the batteries from ALL sources of power drain. IMO, power drains should ALL be connected to a bus bar - which should never be backside of the disconnect. The exceptions might be charging sources like solar panels.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

The key to avoiding drained house batteries is having a disconnect switch that ABSOLUTELY disconnects the batteries from ALL sources of power drain. IMO, power drains should ALL be connected to a bus bar - which should never be backside of the disconnect. The exceptions might be charging sources like solar panels.

Exactly although I though Solar Panel controllers were direct to the battery? I spent a good month of an on with WBGO trying to be 100% that OFF on the BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH meant OFF. In my 2019 29ve it does. I remember driving across Dallas once and my radio would not turn, I assumed it was dead, thinking oh well a new radio is coming up next. My disconnect Switch was OFF

When I installed my aftermarket Cateye Alarm, I connected to the Chassis battery. My logic.... the same alarm system is installed on cars and SUVs and all are connected to the Engine battery with no issues. FWIW, I plan to buy new AGM Chassis battery this winter kind of in the middle of it being winterize and my planning a trip during the winter. It is 5 years old, and I don't need to make 6 years on any battery.

I am putting new tires (5) on my boat trailer now. Perfect threads but show cracking. All 5 tires are 2016 Date Codes.

[CHS]

I would shut off the battery disconnect and see if the batteries still drain. If they don't, then it's not the batteries and something further down the line.

As for hooking up the batteries. Very simple, Negative to negative and one battery has a jumper to the next.

You could also take the cables off the batteries. Fully charge them and then check the voltage on them the next day to see if they are holding a charge. You could also take them to an auto parts store and have the do a load test on them. For that they need to have a full charge before you go.