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Old 12-19-2021, 05:37 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txsport View Post
use step ladder with funnel and tubing, best solution for mine.
All I have to do is go to Lowes and find vinyl tubing that will tightly fit on end of funnel and be long enough to reach the oil cap (above the red dot in the picture) I am guessing the tubing for my RV will need to be 36" - 40" long.

I can then pour direct from gallon container and more importantly, I see how well it is flowing to engine by watching the oil in the funnel drain down and rise based on what I am pouring. I like simple
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Old 12-19-2021, 06:29 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
I can't even get to my Ford dealer in an hour.

It will not be any fuss or mess from me; once I know what is needed (thus this thread). In my view going to a Dealer is a fuss and a mess. I have to unhook and move my RV. I have been to a Ford Dealer with my RV once and they charged me $150 to remove a U Bolt for a Safe T Plus mounting bracket that they could NOT even remove. They charged me the minimum which I paid to get my RV back only to do on my own

Besides, I don't want to REWARD Ford Motor Co for making an irresponsible design that would have the most customers throw their hands up and fork up to pay to do a simple job that should only take 20 minutes.

I don't try to service everything on my RV, but changing the oil is one I will always do Lord willing.
Never had a problem with a Ford dealer. I just make sure that they also sell trucks.
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Old 12-19-2021, 06:55 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by k.maslowski@comcast.net View Post
Never had a problem with a Ford dealer. I just make sure that they also sell trucks.
I think they sell trucks that is why they are a Ford Dealer , it was the Ford Truck Center in Irving Texas if you need validation. Call them sometimes and let me know how much they will charge to change your oil and if you can get it back in hour

I live in DFW; it take me 45 minutes to get there (one way)

A less than 30 minute oil change at home without having to move the RV is my view of No Fuss No Mess; (your words).

Buying a new RV with F-53 chassis where the oil pan plug, and oil filter are directly above front axle and the oil cap is at the very top of engine firewall such that you can't directly pour from a simple quart container is what I call " a Fuss and a Mess" So I created this thread to get assistance on better ways to do, not for suggestions that actually rewards Ford's inept design.
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Old 12-19-2021, 10:25 PM   #44
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Necessity is the Mother of Invention

So now I have two solutions. Both did not cost me a penny as I was able to use materials I already had. The Mityvac pump was described earlier; but now I have a new gravity fill system based on recommendation from Txsport.

I decided to attach a 36" 5/8" water hose extension laying around onto a 12" bendable steel funnel with funnel / hose supported by an O Clamp. When mounted on my ladder it is supported; so I can simply pour direct from my gallon containers into the funnel as I would do a normal car

The 2nd picture is just to kind of show PeteH a perspective of how the Hopkins Flo Tool I had bought wasn't very good in my situation. It never had a chance because it was too short, besides I don't want to pour quart by quart for 7.5 quarts or so. Especially given I buy oil by the gallons because I would have to pour in the Mobil quart container first and then pour into crankcase.

Okay for the 2nd time in this thread the OP has a working solutions, thanks all

Update:
I am so excited about wanting to try the new solutions, I may just change my oil again in two weeks. I can convince myself I am only changing my oil once / year 12/2021 and 1/2022
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Old 12-20-2021, 12:00 AM   #45
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I understand where you are coming from. If I was younger, and in good physical health, I would probably want to change the oil myself. Always did well into my 60's. Then things happened. I still like to crawl under the chassis just for fun.
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Old 12-20-2021, 04:25 AM   #46
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I get my oil changed at the local Ford dealer.....around $100.00.
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Old 12-20-2021, 09:32 AM   #47
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I get my oil changed at the local Ford dealer.....around $100.00.

Thanks. To be clear; I don't think anyone questions that a local or any Ford Dealer will change oil and certainly the cost will be "around $100". This discussion was about the efficiency of the F-53 Oil change. For some; it is lot a more convenient to do it yourself than to take anyplace. Don't think I have ever heard of anyone complaining about how much a oil change cost? Convenience is a matter of perspective and lies with the beholder.
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Old 12-20-2021, 09:48 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by k.maslowski@comcast.net View Post
I understand where you are coming from. If I was younger, and in good physical health, I would probably want to change the oil myself. Always did well into my 60's. Then things happened. I still like to crawl under the chassis just for fun.
Yes; for some a RV is a just a Recreational Vehicle; a oversized toy if that make sense. I have lawn mowing service to mow my lawn, but I mow my lawn 2 - 3 months out of the year (and it is NOT to save money). I enjoy it when I do. Usually I let them have it June - September because I have more time to get to lake on weekends, and because it is hot as hell in Texas.

The point I was raising was not to complain about changing my oil, but to raise the facts around the challenges of the odd designs compared to any other vehicle I have change oil for. By contrast my Onan 5500 Generator is just the opposite. I can change the Onan oil & filter in less than 10 minutes and most of that is drain time. I use the exact same oil in the F53 engine.

I was hopeful to get ideas to make the F53 oil change process better, and I have. My next F53 Oil change will be 30 minutes or less. I am good; may even let my wife do the next one not really; I only get to do this once per year; and I wouldn't miss it for the world
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Old 12-20-2021, 12:34 PM   #49
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I like your ladder setup. However, I’ve used the pump twice. 7 1/2 qts in about 20 minutes. Gives me time to use a hydrometer to fill battery with distilled water and top off washer fluid. Gettin ready to attack the air filer.

I let the used oil splash off the axle. I catch 99% of it. The rest goes onto the gravel driveway and will cause somebody after my ownership to declare it as a hazardous waste site. Wipe it off with a towel. Throw it in garbage. Fire her up. No leaks. Good to go!
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Old 12-20-2021, 11:22 PM   #50
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I like your ladder setup. However, I’ve used the pump twice. 7 1/2 qts in about 20 minutes. Gives me time to use a hydrometer to fill battery with distilled water and top off washer fluid. Gettin ready to attack the air filer.

I let the used oil splash off the axle. I catch 99% of it. The rest goes onto the gravel driveway and will cause somebody after my ownership to declare it as a hazardous waste site. Wipe it off with a towel. Throw it in garbage. Fire her up. No leaks. Good to go!
I like the ladder setup to. It was good idea, I will try it next.

12vdc pumps are out for me, I do not have a 12vdc battery source nearby and I don't wish to pull out my charger, I do have a Mityvac handpump that can push 8 quarts out in 3 minutes, but that is now my backup plan in favor of the ladder. Something about pouring the oil in the funnel that turns me on

I have AGM batteries; so I do not do that hydrometer DI water stuff. In fact; when I had FLA I am 100% certain that I was watering wrong anyway, had to be as batteries could not have been that troublesome on their own That's fixed now though, thanks goodness for AGM

I put in a new Motorcraft Air filter this year and it was needed. So I will plan to change it every 2 years.

I had the same issue last year with the oil spill, I just could not believe the splatter off the axle, I beam etc. I had a catch pan but may have only got 90% of it. The good news was that last year I added the Fumoto valve so this year oil splatter was a concern. With my vinyl hose on the Fumoto nipple; it goes right into my 15 qt container ZERO mess.

I really wish I could change the oil again just to play with this some more, but the reality is I need to just sit on this until October or so next year to see how my next round of results will play out. My wife is always with me when I changing the oil, the game we play is can I do the complete oil change without wasting a single drop. I have to careful where I set a drain plug, tool or even possible splatter from wiping the dipstick?

You can imagine how I felt last year. I might as well have just poured 1 quart of oil on the concrete.
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Old 12-20-2021, 11:32 PM   #51
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Yes. Dealers are not always in a convenient location. And, there is something fulfilling about getting under your buggy and looking at stuff (perhaps a nap?).
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Old 12-21-2021, 12:01 AM   #52
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Yes. Dealers are not always in a convenient location. And, there is something fulfilling about getting under your buggy and looking at stuff (perhaps a nap?).
I think it is mainly my own ego / self esteem. When I finish, my gratification is such that I might as well have added a stock car engine.

I have 4 cars and 2 motorcycles, there is a Speedy Lube about 3 miles from the house, they likely charge less per car to change oil than the premium fully synthetic soil I buy including oil filter (so it ain't about money). I only use that Speedy Lube to do my car inspections and that is one of the most boring things in life to me that I have to do. Drive up, wait about 20 minutes; while they play with lights, horn, and emissions. 30 plus years and who knows how may cars I have had and never failed an inspection; but I have to go 7 times every year

The thought of doubling that to go again for oil changes when required is absolutely last thing on my mind. Nothing convenient about it to me. I use to go to a nearby City RV Park that allowed me to dump for free, they have top notch facilities, but it was beat down to pull the RV out every time, drive 20 min one way and then get in line wait, wait wait. So I invested in a Jet flo Macerator and a new 100ft 3/4 inch hose and now I am in business as I can dump at home now direct to sewer line. Just so you know, I keep my RV at home, so I always playing with something. My RV Dealer is a 1 hr 15 min away, but they are awesome. Short of the dealer, in two years my RV has only been to a RV Repair shop that was authorized Sumo Springs Installer ( went well) and that Ford Truck Dealer which was the worst experience I have had in a long time. They are in the business to deal with Commercial truck accounts and a RV owner is just a nuisance to them. I learned that early so I stay away from them.
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Old 12-21-2021, 01:16 PM   #53
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[QUOTE=dkoldman;327735]I think it is mainly my own ego / self esteem. When I finish, my gratification is such that I might as well have added a stock car engine.


Nope, we complain about the f53, my son brought this over, considered same swap, doesn't even have a dipstick. was thinking about commercial, thinking with your dip stick.
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Old 12-22-2021, 03:22 AM   #54
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[QUOTE=txsport;327789]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
I think it is mainly my own ego / self esteem. When I finish, my gratification is such that I might as well have added a stock car engine.


Nope, we complain about the f53, my son brought this over, considered same swap, doesn't even have a dipstick. was thinking about commercial, thinking with your dip stick.
So #15 That means I got 15 min from driver side to drain oil and get oil filter off, then 15 min passenger side to get ladder fill with oil and put everything away.

I remember several years back at a Chevy dealer while buying a Camaro they had a ZL/1 in the showroom, it was $105,000 and it came with no AC Sales guy told me there was an option to add AC
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Old 12-23-2021, 05:11 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by cgeace29.3 View Post
Are u shure of the 8 quarts?
Mine takes 7 quarts, same engine.
Take me about 45 minutes, refilling the oil with a small container the longest part.
I have a hand pump that attaches to a one quart bottom use on my boat filling the lower unit with 90 w oil, I’m going to try that on m h in spring.
cgeace29.3

I am getting reading to take my 1st trip since the oil change. So this morning while dewinterizing I thought I would check the oil; remembering your doubts,

I was a tad over the dip stick marker

Because I have the Fumoto valve it was easy to drain into my quart bottle that empty that I normally use to carry with the RV to top off oil in generator or engine if needed. I have never needed for the engine.

Anyway I got 1/2 quart out to go back under the line.

What I am not sure of is that the engine is cold now; whereas before the engine was warm/hot because my wife would run the engine stop it; then i check the oil to get it right that the mark. Possibility exist, that when I drive it tomorrow it may look a tad low, but if so no worries.

I am updating my documents to say I added 7 1/2 quarts this year. Thanks for the raising the question.

Koldman
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Old 01-11-2022, 01:39 PM   #56
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I'll have to read of .00001:1 oil type/name brand related v10 failures before I care much about oil brand or even mid value weight.
I get my choice of filters at the oil change place.

I'd also need to read about an established brand of oil filter causing an engine failures more than an anomaly of 3:1,00,000

I understand want.
If you want to, that's fine.
I do PLENTY based solely on want.

The justification is want.
There are no other reasons which can be proven.
If you want to do the labor
If you want the pride
If you want the tools
If you want a skill to fall back on if you need extra income.
If you want to save $30 and then bitch because some 85 IQ guy is jobless.
Hit it. Enjoy it.
It ain't religion, but it's justified in the same ways.
The charity I give is given to that working oil-change guy and others like him. He sure isn't there by choice. It's one of my justifications.



For every
'The goof in the shop left the filter loose, they didn't re-add oil'
There are 1,000 do it yourselfers who did the same. 1:1,000.


Just a view in support of sometimes not doing it yourself.
Nothing else,
If it were anything else I sure as hell wouldn't have given instruction and linked tools.
I'm afraid you omitted one factor: trust and competence.

Over the last 25 years I have experienced deceit and incompetence at a variety of shops and dealerships. A sampling:

  • A handful of screws left in the cupholder that were never put back by the mechanic (local independent shop).
  • A cracked aluminum part in my KIA van because the mechanic didn't know how to remove it. (Goodyear shop)
  • Retainer clips that were removed and not replaced.
  • Retainer clips that were apparently lost by the technician, who simply replaced them with sheet metal screws. (Toyota shop)
  • Radiators that kept breaking (replaced 3 times) after about 6 months. (Toyota shop)
  • A tire shop that didn't even own a torque wrench or knew how to use one, didn't know the torque values, didn't know the bolt pattern, didn't know what to inflate the tires to, didn't know to leave the balancing beads in the bag, forgot to put the beads in one of the tires, and managed to get gravel, dirt, and grass stuck between the tire and the rim. (local mobile shop, been in business for 30 years)
  • Mechanic who informed me that my rear wiper on our van was "completely torn". It was in perfect shape. (Mazda dealership)
  • Mechanic who managed to crack the oil filter on my Corolla. After a 500 mile trip my oil light came on. (Toyota dealership)
  • Countless X-point free inspections and fluid top-offs with oil change for which the mechanic just checked off the boxes without actually checking the items. I've now gone as far as to make sure that there's at least one issue. Low washer fluid, low tire pressure, etc. Easy to check if the mechanic has actually checked. (KIA dealership, Toyota dealership)
  • Tire nuts not properly fastened after rotation. One nut came lose within a few miles. (regional tire & oil shop)
  • Tires not properly inflated. Spec was 33 PSI, one tire was at 27. Manager blamed it on the new tire gauge the master mechanic had just purchased. Shop declined to contact all the other customers whose tires had been checked with this gauge. (Toyota dealership)
  • Mechanic flushed the transmission fluid on a Toyota Sienna (without my permission). Refilled it with too little fluid. When I complained they topped it off to capacity and overfilled it. (local repair shop)
  • MA state inspection station that passed my brother-in-law's car, even though the horn wasn't working and the handle for the direction indicator was missing. I assume there were other issues also.

That's probably only half of my experiences. To be sure, I've had good experiences as well. However, due to these experiences I tend to lean toward doing as much maintenance and repair work myself.
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Old 01-11-2022, 02:13 PM   #57
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I recently took my Nissan to a Nissan dealer for something I didn’t want to do myself. When I picked it up the service writer told me the mechanic said the air filter was dirty and needed changing. As it happens I had personally replaced it two days earlier. He tried to tell me that the mechanic was one of his most trusted skilled employees and perhaps I was mistaken! I asked him to fetch the guy and we’d go look at the filter together. But he declined. Another time I paid a VW dealer to change the transaxle oil and later noticed that the drain plug was still caked with old oil and dirt. Went back and asked to speak with the service manager and he told me the gunk was new. “ that can happen”. Yet another I bought a new pickup truck and asked the dealer to install a hitch. They left 3 of 6 bolts off because the bolt holes didn’t line up perfectly. Only took about 5 minutes work with a rat tail file to fix it. After I sourced the correct bolts. Argh!
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