Freezer 2 Degrees - Fridge 47

[ParadiseDBTR]

New 2023 Magnitude - GE Fridge - Freezer works perfect, fridge won't go below 47. 50 AMP shore power connected, level in my garage, 50 degrees outside temp... any suggestions?

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by ParadiseDBTR

New 2023 Magnitude - GE Fridge - Freezer works perfect, fridge won't go below 47. 50 AMP shore power connected, level in my garage, 50 degrees outside temp... any suggestions?

What type fridge? Residential 120volt? 12volt? Dual 12volt/Propane?

On my propane/electric there's a thermister which can be adjusted.

If propane, try using on propane and see if there's a difference.

[ParadiseDBTR]

Sorry... Residential 120. I have adjusted the "1-5" in both directions (just in case it was reversed) without any luck on getting it below 47.

[Chateau_Nomad]

The next thing I'd check is the voltage being delivered at the pedestal. Compressors are picky about voltage, and don't do well with under voltage.

Do you have an Electrical Management System... NOT just a simple "surge protector"? If not, I would suggest something similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-I...003AN1UA8?th=1

It protects the entire electrical system, including appliances, from "dirty voltage" or even miswired pedestals... VERY common!

It won't let the electric connect until it runs a check. If all is okay, it connects. Otherwise, it shows an error code on the display.

Not cheap at $300, but the alternative may be MUCH more expensive damage and replacement of a refrigerator, microwave or roof top AC unit... plus the headaches involved!

[ParadiseDBTR]

I am using one actually... I feel like I have exhausted everything. If the freezer was struggling, it would make more sense but it is working perfectly.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Could just be a bad refrigerator? That happened to me several years back with a residential Samsung (bad circuit board). If it's new and still under warranty, I'd contact the dealer - or look in your coach documents regarding warranty.

Here's a troubleshooting guide I found:

https://samedayappliancerepair.com/b...%20as%20needed.

Good luck!

[ParadiseDBTR]

Thank you very much!

[16ACE27]

Several threads on this forum regarding this issue - something about air in the freezer not getting to the fridge. Try a search.

[Travelin' Texans]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Could just be a bad refrigerator? That happened to me several years back with a residential Samsung (bad circuit board). If it's new and still under warranty, I'd contact the dealer - or look in your coach documents regarding warranty.

Here's a troubleshooting guide I found:

https://samedayappliancerepair.com/b...%20as%20needed.

Good luck!

I'd contact the fridge manufacturer for troubleshooting or warranty service.
Your rv dealer is not an appliance repair facility, they can barely do the rv repairs in most cases.

[JimOIB]

Originally Posted by ParadiseDBTR

I am using one actually... I feel like I have exhausted everything. If the freezer was struggling, it would make more sense but it is working perfectly.

Your freezer may be struggling. FDA recommends 0F or below. At 2F I wouldn’t consider it working perfectly. Set the controls and give it 24 hours to reach a temperature. A new fridge may take extra time to reach the correct temperature.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

I'd contact the fridge manufacturer for troubleshooting or warranty service.
Your rv dealer is not an appliance repair facility, they can barely do the rv repairs in most cases.

That's exactly why I referenced looking in the Big Black Bag of documents/booklets etc. that Thor provides with every motorhome. Each appliance book is in there, with warranty info, phone numbers, everything needed for warranty claims.

[Bob Nodine]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Several threads on this forum regarding this issue - something about air in the freezer not getting to the fridge. Try a search.

Definitely look for an air flow problem between the freezer and the frig section. Often the frig is cooled by ducting controlled air from the much colder freezer.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by ParadiseDBTR

New 2023 Magnitude - GE Fridge - Freezer works perfect, fridge won't go below 47. 50 AMP shore power connected, level in my garage, 50 degrees outside temp... any suggestions?

Don't go down a rabbit hole with this issue based on some of the above recommendations......

I have a '20 Magnitude SV34 and had the same problem with the Whirlpool fridge and it is a very simple fix given your freezer is cold (so it is not the compressor or voltage issues, etc).

Most refrigerator / freezer's have an evaporator fan in the freezer that pushes the cold air from the evaporator coil down to the refrigerator compartment. There is also a manual control in the freezer usually (or could be in the fridge compartment) that controls the amount of cold air that gets down to the fridge compartment or the amount of cold air that stays in the freezer.

The evaporator motors are cheap Chinese components and they can fail in a short time. Many GE and Whirlpool fridges use the same motor and mine failed in the second year and my fridge is turned off completely 7 months out of the year.

Once the evaporator motor fails, it stops pushing cold air to the fridge. The freezer will be fine but the fridge will be in the high 40's or 50 degree range from the heavier colder air falling down to the fridge compartment instead of being forced down to it.

If you turn your temperature control to the coldest setting so the compressor starts running then open the freezer door and you don't hear a fan running in the back, your evaporator motor died (there is also a small chance there could be an ice build-up that is preventing it from spinning).

There is a plastic panel in the back of the freezer. Just remove the screws that hold it in place (you may have to use a small screw driver to remove the beauty caps that cover the screws). Then remove the back panel and you will see the evaporator coil and the motor.

If the fan is not spinning but you can hear the compressor running, turn the fridge off and remove the motor and get the numbers off it. Then search Amazon (you will need to reuse the plastic fan blades).

I bought one last year for $20 and the fridge has been working great since. I even bought another one as a spare that I carry with me in case it fails on the road. It is about a 20-minute job to replace it and not worth going to a dealer or calling GE Service if my diagnosis is correct.

[Galobo]

Originally Posted by Judge

Don't go down a rabbit hole with this issue based on some of the above recommendations......

I have a '20 Magnitude SV34 and had the same problem with the Whirlpool fridge and it is a very simple fix given your freezer is cold (so it is not the compressor or voltage issues, etc).

Most refrigerator / freezer's have an evaporator fan in the freezer that pushes the cold air from the evaporator coil down to the refrigerator compartment. There is also a manual control in the freezer usually (or could be in the fridge compartment) that controls the amount of cold air that gets down to the fridge compartment or the amount of cold air that stays in the freezer.

The evaporator motors are cheap Chinese components and they can fail in a short time. Many GE and Whirlpool fridges use the same motor and mine failed in the second year and my fridge is turned off completely 7 months out of the year.

Once the evaporator motor fails, it stops pushing cold air to the fridge. The freezer will be fine but the fridge will be in the high 40's or 50 degree range from the heavier colder air falling down to the fridge compartment instead of being forced down to it.

If you turn your temperature control to the coldest setting so the compressor starts running then open the freezer door and you don't hear a fan running in the back, your evaporator motor died (there is also a small chance there could be an ice build-up that is preventing it from spinning).

There is a plastic panel in the back of the freezer. Just remove the screws that hold it in place (you may have to use a small screw driver to remove the beauty caps that cover the screws). Then remove the back panel and you will see the evaporator coil and the motor.

If the fan is not spinning but you can hear the compressor running, turn the fridge off and remove the motor and get the numbers off it. Then search Amazon (you will need to reuse the plastic fan blades).

I bought one last year for $20 and the fridge has been working great since. I even bought another one as a spare that I carry with me in case it fails on the road. It is about a 20-minute job to replace it and not worth going to a dealer or calling GE Service if my diagnosis is correct.

To check if the fan is running fool the refrigerator into thinking the door is closed by pushing the fan, light button on the frame providing it has one. The evaporator fan only runs when the door is closed.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by Galobo

To check if the fan is running fool the refrigerator into thinking the door is closed by pushing the fan, light button on the frame providing it has one. The evaporator fan only runs when the door is closed.

Yes….. The fan runs with the freezer door open if the fridge door is closed.

[Pillbox]

Read the manual. My whirlpool has a way to check diagnostics by open door, flip light switch on and off for a certain number of times, presto, in manual check mode.
Then, push the on/off so many times then the compressor turns on, repeat the process, the evaporator fan turns on etc.
Look in the papers, next to the compressor on under the front panel.
Good luck,
Terry