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Old 05-30-2021, 12:12 AM   #1
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Brand: Still Looking
State: Pennsylvania
Posts: 14
THOR #14567
Intellitec Battery control system

on my hurricane 2006 coach I have the Intellitec battery system, I can no longer disconnect the chassis by throwing the switch at the door, when I push switch to disconnect it stay lit. Must be a stuck solenoid or bad relay, or fuse issue. But when looking at the box in the front of coach, the PC board is on top of the relay and switches. Looks a little tricky to make repairs. probably would have to pull cables on all batteries. But then how do you check things with no juice?
I assume first check fuses, then relays, then solenoids.
I was told I could but put both terminals of solenoid on one side and this would bypass the chassis solenoid. but which side do they both go to, the left lug or the right lug.

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Old 05-30-2021, 01:38 AM   #2
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2013 ACE 30.1
State: Alberta
Posts: 1,265
THOR #2631
Firstly from your description it sounds like your 2006 Hurricane has a BCC (Battery Control Center) in the engine bay......are you sure it is an Intellitec system (does it have a BIRD controller?) or is it an RV Custom Products BCC in which the circuit board sits on top of the coach and chassis battery latching relays and the interconnection (emergency start) relay?

You say it is the chassis battery disconnect that is not disconnecting.......so it is possible that the chassis battery latching relay has failed in the “on” position or it could be the center off switch at the door has failed (or other things). If this is actually the case, then connecting the main power terminal cables together on one side of the bad latching relay would make no difference.......it might help in a case where the chassis battery latching relay had failed in the “open/off” position. I would suggest first resolving what actually is or is not working with your complete battery control system. Purchase a multimeter; learn how to make DC voltage measurements with it, and fully test your battery charging systems and operating switches. Once you know what is not working as it should, then you can start to resolve what the likely failure items are and work to repair them.
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Old 05-30-2021, 06:01 PM   #3
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THOR #14567
Intellitec system

I read that you should disconnect battery Pos/Neg cables from chassis and house batteries before servicing. But how do you troubleshoot w/o power?
What am I missing here?
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Old 05-30-2021, 06:34 PM   #4
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A picture of the offending item may help.
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Old 05-30-2021, 08:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedbug123 View Post
I read that you should disconnect battery Pos/Neg cables from chassis and house batteries before servicing. But how do you troubleshoot w/o power?
What am I missing here?

Generally you troubleshoot with your batteries connected using a mulitmeter to help fully diagnose what is working correctly with the charging system and what is not. Then when you identify the suspected offending item(s) you take appropriate action with safe replacement in mind. So if it is just a blown fuse; probably a simple replacement is all that is required; if it is a bad latching relay that is buried behind a circuit board......then disconnect the grounds from all battery strings, disconnect shore and gen/engine off.......then do your repair.

You can use a mulitmeter set for resistance/ohms (or continuity) to test connection resistance through fuses, relays etc., but it is essential that no power is connected to circuits under test when the test meter is set for resistance or continuity.

If your BCC is an older version intellitec unit, which it sounds like it is, you may have to contact Intellitec to obtain information on it if you are not able to find info on line specifically for your BCC model number. Intellitec had several versions of BCC (one relay; two relay; various current ratings etc. Sorry, not familiar with the older versions. If you can provide the model number off the BCC then maybe the forum can assist a little better. The reason I asked about if it was an RV Custom BCC is because I think in 2006 (or so) some Hurricanes may have started using the BCC from RV Custom Products.
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Old 05-31-2021, 02:23 AM   #6
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State: Pennsylvania
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THOR #14567
Intellitec system

it is the switch along the steps up to coach. one for chassis and other for coach batteries, I have a issue with the chassis disconnect switch, I press to disconnect and the light stays on so I don't know if it is disconnected? So how do I test switch first, then relay next, then solenoid?

I saw you tube video that said unhook both cables to house and chassis batteries before servicing, how do I test things with no power?

I would like to bypass the chassis disconnect and go with a disconnect on the negative terminal, how would I do that.

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Old 05-31-2021, 03:27 AM   #7
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
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So I am attaching a Intellitec document that describes the operation of latching relays in general and the typical control wiring of both coach and chassis disconnect switches and their related LED lamps located at the steps. This “may not” be your exact wiring though. You need to determine which specific Intellitec BCC you have.
On this example document (under Fuses), it seems that there are two fuses on each latching relay. One fuse provides 12vdc from the respective coach or chassis battery through the fuse to the corresponding switch at the steps. This becomes the control voltage that will then operate or release the corresponding latching relay. So if this fuse is blown on the chassis disconnect latching relay for example, you will not have 12vdc at the chassis battery disconnect switch that will allow you to turn the latching relay on or off. The second fuse on each latching relay apparently powers the associated LED lamp at the stairs for the corresponding disconnect. Since you have the chassis disconnect light always on.....it implies to me that your chassis disconnect is latched in the “on” position so chassis battery 12vdc is passing through the chassis disconnect latching relay and coming back to the steps to turn on the chassis disconnect LED through a current limiting resister in series with that LED. When you turn off the chassis battery disconnect switch I suspect that you do not hear the clunk of that relay releasing (as you should) so it is probably staying latched on; therefore LED stays on. So why is this happening? Maybe one of the fuses is blown on the chassis battery latching relay that sends 12vdc back to the step disconnect switch which is then used to control the operation or release of that latching relay. It could also be that the latching relay has just failed in the on position......or many other things. I don’t know this BCC but “if” the attached pdf matches your wiring, you could check for an open control fuse on the chassis disconnect relay or check for control 12vdc at the chassis disconnect switch itself (don’t confuse LED 12vdc with the control 12vdc). I don’t know how involved it is to access latching relays for your BCC, so if it is buried behind a circuit board.......then remove shore; turn off gen/engine; disconnect both battery string grounds (coach and chassis) and ensure those grounds do not accidentally touch chassis. Carefully obtain access to the latching relay and see if it has the fuses described in the pdf. If it does, test the fuses with a multimeter set to continuity (or ohms). The fuses should show short (tone on) if they are good. All of this may not even apply if your BCC is not per attached basic document of course. You may need to obtain the assistance of a mobile tech or take it in for repair to your Dealer to be absolutely safe; or if you do not have a meter or basic electrical test knowledge.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Intellitec 53-00066-100.pdf (206.1 KB, 15 views)
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Old 05-31-2021, 11:50 AM   #8
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THOR #14567
I saw on some you tube videos that the OEM solenoid is over $100, but any four pole solenoid that is a continuing use type and a min of 100 AMPs would work and is far less costly. Do you concur?
Again thanks for the information.
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Old 05-31-2021, 12:53 PM   #9
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
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The latching relay is meant to be powered momentarily to either operate or release its main contacts. They then remain in that operated or released state until the control coil is again powered in the correct polarity to either operate or release the main contacts again. That is why your coach and chassis disconnect switches at the door are momentary operation with return to center off position. Many latching relays can be damaged by keeping them energized. The interconnect (emergency start) relay is meant to be continuous duty because in some coaches the battery control system energizes this relay to allow charging of both coach and chassis batteries together for longer term charging. Emergency starting push buttons are momentary also and only close the interconnect relay when they are being pushed. So, I would suggest that you keep the original electrical design intent of the manufacturer with what you have. If you change a latching relay to continuous duty then your stair switches would also have to change and you would be drawing current through the coils continuously when relays are operated. Unfortunately owning an RV is not cheap and repairing them can hit the wallet too, but redesigning your electrical system also comes with some potentially dangerous consequences (like fire) unless you are an electrical design expert. Your chassis battery latch relay may not be the problem....it could be a 5 amp fuse on the relay or the stair switch as discussed previously.
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Old 05-31-2021, 02:51 PM   #10
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before this when we were camping and sitting in the coach, you could hear the solenoid click in and then off, again and again, then it stopped.
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Old 06-17-2021, 02:05 AM   #11
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THOR #14567
Intellitec system

thanks to M&M in Ohio and Chris Bayus , my Intellitec system is up and running. A little help from the man above also in prayers.

Battery disconnect/connect system up and running.....

Dry camping problems solved

Thanks to all on the forum for their input,
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