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Old 08-04-2019, 04:42 AM   #1641
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
Wow a 3rd manufacturer of window screens. I was also nervous about drilling holes in our coach so I stuck with stick on velcro (we have a Sunguard RV Windshield cover). We've been using it now for a good 3 years and they do decrease the light and heat in the daytime. At night remember to close the shades as people can see into the coach when the inside lights are on and its dark out.

The other manufacturer is Magneshade. When our Sunguard shade "wears out" I'll be replacing it with a Magneshade (These are held on with magnets you put on the inside of the window--no drilling required).
Thank you for the info on the shades. I really didn't want to drill. Some of the venues we go to there are not any trees. The A/C struggles. Hopefully this will do the job as advertised!
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Old 08-04-2019, 11:50 AM   #1642
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We got Mangeshade three years ago and (after the first 3 or 4 tries) it is now quick and easy to set up and take down...there is a dealer in Mocksville NC that did the install.

DocMIke
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Old 08-05-2019, 06:17 PM   #1643
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I know the "outside shades" will block more sun and heat but if your afraid to drill on the outside then use the Reflective bubble in all your cockpit windows.

Thats what I do.

Works great and you can put them up in seconds while your eating lunch on the road, then remove before you drive off... all from the comfort from inside your dry and air conditioned RV.

I store them under my mattress so they dont take up any room and are nice and flat.
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Old 08-05-2019, 06:29 PM   #1644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
I know the "outside shades" will block more sun and heat but if your afraid to drill on the outside then use the Reflective bubble in all your cockpit windows.

Thats what I do.

Works great and you can put them up in seconds while your eating lunch on the road, then remove before you drive off... all from the comfort from inside your dry and air conditioned RV.

I store them under my mattress so they dont take up any room and are nice and flat.
Magneshade: No drilling required, and comes with a handy pole to make putting them on and removing them super easy and quick.
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Old 08-05-2019, 10:54 PM   #1645
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Good to know. Where do you put your magnets? Nothing steel for them to stick to right? Or to you glue magnets to the RV then use the pole to install the cover?
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Old 08-05-2019, 11:52 PM   #1646
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Magnets stick on outer edges of inside front window
But this is a pricey shade
$600 for front, and front sides are $2-300 each

Here’s a value solution...
Go to Harbor freight
Get a 6’ x 8’ piece of mesh screen material
Buy some magnets & double stick foam tape

The whole deal is well under $50
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Old 08-06-2019, 02:55 AM   #1647
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THOR #5494
Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
I know the "outside shades" will block more sun and heat but if your afraid to drill on the outside then use the Reflective bubble in all your cockpit windows.

Thats what I do.

Works great and you can put them up in seconds while your eating lunch on the road, then remove before you drive off... all from the comfort from inside your dry and air conditioned RV.

I store them under my mattress so they dont take up any room and are nice and flat.
Hello Long & Winding road, I have picked up a roll of the reflective bubble wrap. I will cut to fit for the rear bedroom windows and the overhead bubble in the shower. (I am not tall) Did you use Velcro to hold them in place.

I did drill into the outer skin to install the windscreen holders. Still have to install the front side glass sun screens.

Thanks
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Old 08-06-2019, 12:58 PM   #1648
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Originally Posted by Chucke View Post
Hello Long & Winding road, I have picked up a roll of the reflective bubble wrap. I will cut to fit for the rear bedroom windows and the overhead bubble in the shower. (I am not tall) Did you use Velcro to hold them in place.

I did drill into the outer skin to install the windscreen holders. Still have to install the front side glass sun screens.

Thanks
Hello, I cut and fit every single window (including Windshield) for the bubbles. You want to cut enough to tuck into the window frame and they will hold themselves (except for the cockpit area). Then I close the blind hid the bubble plus adds another layer of insulation and help hold in place.

For my shower overhead skylight I used a free sample of the "clear" (well 15% = almost clear) Ceramic Window tint. You can remove the inner cover and place on top. install on top like your doing a window then replace.

It eliminated most of the heat plus it leaves the bathroom nice and bright and its one less thing you have to do in order to keep the heat out.

As for the cockpit bubbles. I cut one piece for the front windsheild then lower the blind. Its holds it pretty good overall but its not flat and tight like the dinning/kitchen/bedroom windows are since you dont have a frame to tuck it in (and its too large and heavy). I might use some HD velcro down the road.

The side cockpit windows tuck in the top and the front edges (mostly under the curtain valance) but the lower part wants to drop. I thought about using HD velcro on the lower rear corner to hold but I have not yet. If you rotate both captains chairs and put small pillow behind them it will hold the bubbles in place.
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Old 08-06-2019, 01:19 PM   #1649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Hello, I cut and fit every single window (including Windshield) for the bubbles. You want to cut enough to tuck into the window frame and they will hold themselves (except for the cockpit area). Then I close the blind hid the bubble plus adds another layer of insulation and help hold in place.

For my shower overhead skylight I used a free sample of the "clear" (well 15% = almost clear) Ceramic Window tint. You can remove the inner cover and place on top. install on top like your doing a window then replace.

It eliminated most of the heat plus it leaves the bathroom nice and bright and its one less thing you have to do in order to keep the heat out.

As for the cockpit bubbles. I cut one piece for the front windsheild then lower the blind. Its holds it pretty good overall but its not flat and tight like the dinning/kitchen/bedroom windows are since you dont have a frame to tuck it in (and its too large and heavy). I might use some HD velcro down the road.

The side cockpit windows tuck in the top and the front edges (mostly under the curtain valance) but the lower part wants to drop. I thought about using HD velcro on the lower rear corner to hold but I have not yet. If you rotate both captains chairs and put small pillow behind them it will hold the bubbles in place.
I use the foil when in storage: for the front window I just drop the shade and lean the foil up against it.

For the side windows I cut them close enough that they tuck under the bunk and the curtains at the rear hold them in place.
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Old 08-07-2019, 03:46 AM   #1650
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Thank you all for the guidance! I am going to try and get to it this weekend!

Thank you,
Chuck
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Old 08-10-2019, 02:01 AM   #1651
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Asking for help for same issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggys Vegas View Post
During our first long trip it did not take us long to realize that the couch and table setup in our 2015 Vegas 24.1 was not satisfactory for our style of traveling. So, out with the couch and in with a self designed and built dinette with storage below the seats, and capable of using for a bed if necessary. No problem with the seat belts and wiring, just relocated them. The system is fully usable with or without the slide being extended.
I'm new to this forum. Searching for help with the same issue. We have a 2013 Vegas 24.1 and do not want the sofa, but instead was the dinette. Looks beautiful what you did - how and where? I'd like to get the same thing done asap.

Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2019, 03:54 PM   #1652
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I recently replaced the High Point microwave/convection oven with a NuWave convection/toaster/air fryer. Here is a link to the thread with step by step and pics:
NuWave Bravo XL install in Vegas 25.5

Also replaced the Norcold RV fridge with residential appartment size (10.1 cu ft).
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Old 08-11-2019, 01:00 AM   #1653
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Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
This is a great ideal How do you roll them up? Are they electic? I dont see any crank on it.

Or is it one that you pull just right and its spring loaded to roll them up? Where did you get them at?
Sorry been traveling Boon docking most of the way across Canada.


They are just manual roll up. they will become powered in likely......version 4 or 5.
we camped next to a 45 footer to-day that had powered winders.
I am very handy working in most materials so building anything comes naturally.
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Old 08-11-2019, 01:03 AM   #1654
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Just got back from the dollar store with a whole bunch of super tiny brushes!
Thanks for the great idea!!
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Old 08-11-2019, 11:34 PM   #1655
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How did you mount the key rack? I can't get command strips to stay on my walls or cabinets.
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Old 08-12-2019, 01:16 PM   #1656
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THOR #12231
Quote:
Originally Posted by pavemike View Post
I recently replaced the High Point microwave/convection oven with a NuWave convection/toaster/air fryer. Here is a link to the thread with step by step and pics:
NuWave Bravo XL install in Vegas 25.5

Also replaced the Norcold RV fridge with residential appartment size (10.1 cu ft).
I love you NuWave. Great Ideal

Did your residential frig fit in the same footprint ast the OEM frig? Tell us more about that mod please.

What kind of batteries do you have to support the frig now?
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Old 08-13-2019, 01:40 AM   #1657
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I finished off my cockpit improvements today.

My new cockpit!

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Old 08-13-2019, 09:23 PM   #1658
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THOR #12686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
I love you NuWave. Great Ideal

Did your residential frig fit in the same footprint ast the OEM frig? Tell us more about that mod please.

What kind of batteries do you have to support the frig now?
The Vegas 25.5 has a small cabinet above the fridge. I removed that cabinet and the Magic Chef fridge fit like a glove. There are a few other appartment size residential fridges that are identical to this, just a different name. I installed a AIMS 1200w inverter with auto-transfer switch to run all outlets (GCFIs excluded). Still have the same 2 stock batteries that came in the Vegas. A year and a half later they still hold a full charge...lucky me. It usually takes 3-4 hours for the fridge to be fully cold, freezer frozen. Then we load it up. Works great, holds a lot. I have ran the fridge off of those stock batteries for 12 hours and the battery indicator was still 3 lights. Didn't check the actual level with meter, I was satisfied. I use a preventative method to start the fridge; I put store/use switch to use, start the generator, turn on the inverter, plug in the fridge and let the compressor work and settle while I do my other pre-travel checks. I turn off the generator after about 10 minutes, compressor is settled (sort of a "hard start for air conditioners" method). I always open the panel out side and unplug the fridge after trip, just in case I run outlets while cleaning, don't need the fridge starting up. Hope this info helps. We love this 10.1 cu ft fridge.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:33 PM   #1659
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Originally Posted by TimmyB View Post
I finished off my cockpit improvements today.

My new cockpit!

Nice job Timmy. And you though you were in over your head.
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:43 PM   #1660
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THOR #12231
Quote:
Originally Posted by pavemike View Post
The Vegas 25.5 has a small cabinet above the fridge. I removed that cabinet and the Magic Chef fridge fit like a glove. There are a few other appartment size residential fridges that are identical to this, just a different name. I installed a AIMS 1200w inverter with auto-transfer switch to run all outlets (GCFIs excluded). Still have the same 2 stock batteries that came in the Vegas. A year and a half later they still hold a full charge...lucky me. It usually takes 3-4 hours for the fridge to be fully cold, freezer frozen. Then we load it up. Works great, holds a lot. I have ran the fridge off of those stock batteries for 12 hours and the battery indicator was still 3 lights. Didn't check the actual level with meter, I was satisfied. I use a preventative method to start the fridge; I put store/use switch to use, start the generator, turn on the inverter, plug in the fridge and let the compressor work and settle while I do my other pre-travel checks. I turn off the generator after about 10 minutes, compressor is settled (sort of a "hard start for air conditioners" method). I always open the panel out side and unplug the fridge after trip, just in case I run outlets while cleaning, don't need the fridge starting up. Hope this info helps. We love this 10.1 cu ft fridge.
Wow, great info. I have the same inverter hooked up the same way already. I like my OEM Gas/electic fridge Ok but I get tired of constantly having to adjust the temp so I dont freeze stuff in the frig part.

I start out on #5 to cool it down and after like 8 hours the frig is like 8 in Freezer / 37 deg in Frig part. Then I load it up and turn down to 4 during the daytime (in summer) then like 3 in around late dinner time then #2 before I go to bed. The start all over the next day.

I installed wireless digital thermometers in the fig and freeze so every time I walk by I check and hold it around 37 to 42 deg (without opening the doors). So that helped a lot.

But the residential frig is SET IT and FORGET IT. I like that Ideal
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