Residential Fridge and Battery Problems

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

When we store it for winter then would we want to disconnect the neg poles on the batteries? Or could we just unplug the fridge and turn off the inverter and the store button? Then rehook in the spring.
My profile says Alabama. We’re in S Indiana. So we do get below freezing here.

You should NOT have to disconnect the battery post. Some people do but what is the point. I use my RV year around and I travel in the North sometimes and I see all of the boats and RVs in permanent shrink wrappings. I defer to the locals, but I can imagine going 3 or 4 months or longer without going out to the RV to do something.

Now I think some with Lithium batteries have to or the batteries will freeze. I keep things simple.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

I would change them to AGMs and get more AH capacity even if they work because I know they are 5 years old.[/

DK what is AGM and AH?
Any particular brand?

Absorbent Glass Matt

Amp Hours - It is how they measure the capacity of a battery.

What batteries do you have now, you will need to know the size and if you have room to put in larger batteries to get more capacity ( AH)

Here is example of how it works together.

Lets assume you have two 5 year old batteries that when new did 65AHs each. So you have total of 130AHs. But you never want to run your batteries down like you just did below 50% capacity. So in reality you only have 65AHs total to use. Worse since your batteries are old you only be getting 45AHs out of them.

Now lets also assume that your fridge consumes 5 Amps every hour when on to keep cold. That is 5 AHs

45AH / 5AH = 9hrs so you may only get your fridge to run 9 hrs with no shore power, generator or engine running.

If you had two new 100AHs batteries, you would have 200 Ah total but only 100AH at 50% capacity.

Using same fridge 100AH/5AH = 20 hours; so you can run fridge 20 hours which easily gets you over night.

There is no particular brand, despite all of the recommendations; I have never seen or heard of bad battery brand. Just some people buy for the wrong applications or do not properly maintain them.

IMO, you do not need FLA that requires water, you should get at minimum get a Maintenance free, but I would recommend a AGM that fits your budget.

I bought two 125ah AGMs so I could get 25 hrs in the same example above. With that said I would look for at least 110 AHs each.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

DK and ACE27

‘QUOTE=Collin Kieffer;366346]
I bought 2 Renogy AGM Group 27 12V100Ah20 Hr. batteries. My original batteries were Group 27 so I did measure my battery compartment and they should fit. Paid $539.98 for the two of them shipped Free. ‘


Are these what we need?
Or I saw this post. We want to get a portable solar kit eventually. So would these be better? Our mh is solar ready. We do boondock quite often.



Don’t really know what to get, but I don’t think we want the same batts we have.

TIA. Mablunk

Did the SP & Converter finish charging your batteries?
Is you Fridge and Freezer working now with the plug direct in Inverter and with SP On?

Assuming it is working fine, and you now are clear on position of Use Switch to be On

You should now focus on the batteries. I suggest going Auto Parts place and let them to a load test on both house batteries and they may even check your water for you.

If you have time, I would leave everything connected with SP overnight and then maybe tomorrow around 6:00PM disconnect the SP and time how long before you get the RED Blink warning. I ideally it will make it 8:00 AM in the morning

FWIW I have two ofg the vMax tanks 125ah referenced by Scubawise. I got cheaper than Amazon, you may wish to call vMax Tank direct. Since you state you will boondock a lot, if these will fit, it is the best thing short of Lithiums.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJRVGCC...B0ADNQBX26PBY4

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Did the SP & Converter finish charging your batteries?
Is you Fridge and Freezer working now with the plug direct in Inverter and with SP On?

Assuming it is working fine, and you now are clear on position of Use Switch to be On

You should now focus on the batteries. I suggest going Auto Parts place and let them to a load test on both house batteries and they may even check your water for you.

If you have time, I would leave everything connected with SP overnight and then maybe tomorrow around 6:00PM disconnect the SP and time how long before you get the RED Blink warning. I ideally it will make it 8:00 AM in the morning

FWIW I have two ofg the vMax tanks 125ah referenced by Scubawise. I got cheaper than Amazon, you may wish to call vMax Tank direct. Since you state you will boondock a lot, if these will fit, it is the best thing short of Lithiums.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJRVGCC...B0ADNQBX26PBY4

Not sure if it’s all charged up. We have it connected to SP and when I last went in the converter is charging the batteries.
I will check it all in the am.
I may check it during the day to see how long the batteries hold the charge.
We couldn’t figure out the tester for them. The pic of the tester with the black and red probes.
Depending on what happens we will take it to auto zone or Oreillys they will check them.
I just bought the chassis battery from them.
I like the idea of the maintenance free from max tank. Not so sure about installing ourselves tho.
Thanks again for all your help.
This is a great forum.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

Not sure if it’s all charged up. We have it connected to SP and when I last went in the converter is charging the batteries.
I will check it all in the am.
I may check it during the day to see how long the batteries hold the charge.
We couldn’t figure out the tester for them. The pic of the tester with the black and red probes.
Depending on what happens we will take it to auto zone or Oreillys they will check them.
I just bought the chassis battery from them.
I like the idea of the maintenance free from max tank. Not so sure about installing ourselves tho.
Thanks again for all your help.
This is a great forum.

I saw that multimeter and it is super easy to check smaller batteries like 1.5vdc or 9v etc. You can check the batteries with but the Analog dial may get confusing to explain? The Red is Positive and Black is Negative. You would need to set it on 60 on the left side and take the reading. I can't read that analog gauges but you will pick the row that is closest to 60 DCV.

You may wish to invest in a Digital Multimeter so it it just tells you exactly what you need to know. They use to give them out free at Harbor freight, but is good idea to buy a nice one to have in garage and on trips in the RV.

Fluke or Wavetek are brands I like, but you can find online at Wal Mart, Home Depot almost anywhere.

I think you will be well served to go back to place that sold the Chassis battery and they can check all things out for you.

But you may have to find some local shop that will install the batteries you buy for you, I am assuming if buy batteries online.

All AGMs are sealed and maintenance free. Some FLA are maintenance free which means you don't have to fool with water.

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I saw that multimeter and it is super easy to check smaller batteries like 1.5vdc or 9v etc. You can check the batteries with but the Analog dial may get confusing to explain? The Red is Positive and Black is Negative. You would need to set it on 60 on the left side and take the reading. I can't read that analog gauges but you will pick the row that is closest to 60 DCV.

You may wish to invest in a Digital Multimeter so it it just tells you exactly what you need to know. They use to give them out free at Harbor freight, but is good idea to buy a nice one to have in garage and on trips in the RV.

Fluke or Wavetek are brands I like, but you can find online at Wal Mart, Home Depot almost anywhere.

I think you will be well served to go back to place that sold the Chassis battery and they can check all things out for you.

But you may have to find some local shop that will install the batteries you buy for you, I am assuming if buy batteries online.

All AGMs are sealed and maintenance free. Some FLA are maintenance free which means you don't have to fool with water.

I’ll do that. Home Depot is nearby. I’ll see if Oreillys has the batteries. If so, they install free of charge. Probably cost some more but might be worth the hassle of finding someone else to do it. I can probably get a multimeter there also.
Thanks again. I’ll let you know how it progresses.

[Bill Johnson]

All my meters are auto ranging so all I need to do is set it on dc and it will show the voltage, if it is connected backwards it will just have a negative sign in front of the numbers but the read it accurately. If connected right it will read say 12.6 Volts if backwards it will read -12.6

[dkoldman]

I agree with Mr. Bill

Auto Ranging is best for you and me to if I ever get another one

If you decide to buy a Multimeter and look beyond Oreily's here is one can't lose suggestion on Amazon from Fluke about $45 bucks

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Mul...826604&sr=8-10

I wish they would say VAC and VDC to help but it is not hard to learn picturegram for alternating and direct currents.

My model is Wavetek 28XT, I can do temperature among other things. I am pretty sure it is discontinued by now? I have about 20 of the use to be free ones from Harbor Freight.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

I’ll do that. Home Depot is nearby. I’ll see if Oreillys has the batteries. If so, they install free of charge. Probably cost some more but might be worth the hassle of finding someone else to do it. I can probably get a multimeter there also.
Thanks again. I’ll let you know how it progresses.

I don't know if I'd trust the counter monkeys at O'Reillys to install the house batteries. It's more complicated that a simple car battery swap. You may get a good one but the consequences of getting a Bozo would make this thread look short by comparison and the cost of a mobile RV mechanic cheap.

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

I don't know if I'd trust the counter monkeys at O'Reillys to install the house batteries. It's more complicated that a simple car battery swap. You may get a good one but the consequences of getting a Bozo would make this thread look short by comparison and the cost of a mobile RV mechanic cheap.

I labeled all the cables that go to each post. I used different color tape, wrote on the tape which post and which order. I also put the tape with the post location on ea color.

So far everything is good. It must have been the store switch. The batteries were not charging when plugged in. We’ll have to make sure it’s on b4 we plug in from now on.
So far the inverter is all green, fridge is on. Been 2.5 hrs w only house batteries as juice. No SP, gen or engine on.

About the meter I have. Will it work on the house batteries to see what the charge is.
See pic. I have no instructions. What setting would I use Batt or is it the horseshoe symbol side. ?
Tia.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

Attachment 40054

I labeled all the cables that go to each post. I used different color tape, wrote on the tape which post and which order. I also put the tape with the post location on ea color.

So far everything is good. It must have been the store switch. The batteries were not charging when plugged in. We’ll have to make sure it’s on b4 we plug in from now on.
So far the inverter is all green, fridge is on. Been 2.5 hrs w only house batteries as juice. No SP, gen or engine on.

About the meter I have. Will it work on the house batteries to see what the charge is.
See pic. I have no instructions. What setting would I use Batt or is it the horseshoe symbol side. ?
Tia.

Yes set the meter to 60 on the black scale on the left. Notice the green scale on the top, read the black numbers just below them that read 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 60. Black goes to negative and red is positive. This meter is not real accurate. If you read less than 12 volts on the scale turn the knob to 12 volts and it will give you a more accurate reading of less than 12 volts using the 12 volt scale below the other one that goes to sixty, it will only go up to 12. The 12 volt scale is red with OL at the end that is over load

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

Attachment 40054

I labeled all the cables that go to each post. I used different color tape, wrote on the tape which post and which order. I also put the tape with the post location on ea color.

So far everything is good. It must have been the store switch. The batteries were not charging when plugged in. We’ll have to make sure it’s on b4 we plug in from now on.
So far the inverter is all green, fridge is on. Been 2.5 hrs w only house batteries as juice. No SP, gen or engine on.

About the meter I have. Will it work on the house batteries to see what the charge is.
See pic. I have no instructions. What setting would I use Batt or is it the horseshoe symbol side. ?
Tia.

I forgot one thing that screw slot next to the word analog is for setting the meter to zero. If it doesn't line up with zero turn that screw left or right so it reads zero

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

Attachment 40054

I labeled all the cables that go to each post. I used different color tape, wrote on the tape which post and which order. I also put the tape with the post location on ea color.

So far everything is good. It must have been the store switch. The batteries were not charging when plugged in. We’ll have to make sure it’s on b4 we plug in from now on.
So far the inverter is all green, fridge is on. Been 2.5 hrs w only house batteries as juice. No SP, gen or engine on.

About the meter I have. Will it work on the house batteries to see what the charge is.
See pic. I have no instructions. What setting would I use Batt or is it the horseshoe symbol side. ?
Tia.

I found a manual for a meter like yours. I would pick up an inexpensive digital meter instead of this, yours only says you are in the ball park a new meter will give you much more information. there is a big difference of a reading around 12 volts compared to 12.6. 12 volts is considered an almost dead battery where 12.6 and is a full charge https://manualzz.com/doc/13265770/

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

I found a manual for a meter like yours. I would pick up an inexpensive digital meter instead of this, yours only says you are in the ball park a new meter will give you much more information. there is a big difference of a reading around 12 volts compared to 12.6. 12 volts is considered an almost dead battery where 12.6 and is a full charge https://manualzz.com/doc/13265770/

X2

That meter makes it 20 times harder than what it needs to be, thus the suggestion to buy a nice automated digital one. The Voltmeter when you know how to use it will pay for itself 3 or 4 times a year.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

X2

That meter makes it 20 times harder than what it needs to be, thus the suggestion to buy a nice automated digital one. The Voltmeter when you know how to use it will pay for itself 3 or 4 times a year.

This one is so had to get an accurate reading. The sixty volt scale could be a volt off, no one could tell if it was under charged, over charged or just right, except Goldilocks maybe. The only thing this meter can tell is there is power or no power

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

X2

That meter makes it 20 times harder than what it needs to be, thus the suggestion to buy a nice automated digital one. The Voltmeter when you know how to use it will pay for itself 3 or 4 times a year.

I found a meter for Dummies Ideal 61- 069 has no knobs, no nothing. Set for outranging it will detect what you are doing connect to 120 plug it will automatically show the ac voltage, connect to a battery it will show DC voltage, check resistance it will show it, if powered it will show the voltage and not burn it out. there must be more of these out there by other brands. My friends have destroyed their meters or blown a fuse not having the switch set right

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

I found a meter for Dummies Ideal 61- 069 has no knobs, no nothing. Set for outranging it will detect what you are doing connect to 120 plug it will automatically show the ac voltage, connect to a battery it will show DC voltage, check resistance it will show it, if powered it will show the voltage and not burn it out. there must be more of these out there by other brands. My friends have destroyed their meters or blown a fuse not having the switch set right

I don't know if I like that? If you doing any kind of electrical work some basic knowledge ought to be required and expected. It is bad enough we have Driving for Dummies manuals all over the place. If you can't flip a button or switch to ACV, DCV, Resistance, or Continuity and let the auto range display the digital results; I say put the Multimeter down, slowly step back and away; then call for electrical help

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

X2

That meter makes it 20 times harder than what it needs to be, thus the suggestion to buy a nice automated digital one. The Voltmeter when you know how to use it will pay for itself 3 or 4 times a year.

I used the meter. Set it on the left side 12. Touched the probes to the posts. The needle went all the way to the far right that the batteries are good. All seems to be well after 3.5 hours of strictly battery use. Inverter on, fridge cold, freezer freezing.
Hopefully the batts are fine for now.
We are going to fill the gas and propane tomorrow am and will have them checked.
I’m hoping it was the use/ store button all along. Once everything started working it seems to be like it was b4 this mix up.
If things change, I’ll be back![emoji2957]
Thanks for everything. Talk again! Take care.

[JimOIB]

I agree. In the Navy we were taught that there are old electronic techs and bold electronic techs but no old/bold techs. In my safety briefing at the brewery I tell new staff that if you don’t know how to use something then ask…guessing isn’t an option.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

I used the meter. Set it on the left side 12. Touched the probes to the posts. The needle went all the way to the far right that the batteries are good. All seems to be well after 3.5 hours of strictly battery use. Inverter on, fridge cold, freezer freezing.
Hopefully the batts are fine for now.
We are going to fill the gas and propane tomorrow am and will have them checked.
I’m hoping it was the use/ store button all along. Once everything started working it seems to be like it was b4 this mix up.
If things change, I’ll be back![emoji2957]
Thanks for everything. Talk again! Take care.

Hope everything works for you, good luck. Let us know how everything goes. Just thinking you had it unplugged from shore power for the testing of the batteries and the fridge running?