CHF F53 Ford

[Jimbo56]

Do these plates just take the place of the 2 hole OE short brackets? These are stronger? Is this the benefit?

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

Do these plates just take the place of the 2 hole OE short brackets? These are stronger? Is this the benefit?

Basically yes

When doing the chf the sway bar arm get raised up to attach the link to the inner hole. This makes the bar point up. The plates lower the bar to be in the original level position

If you look at the top of the plate you'll see two holes. The link is bolted to the inner hole of the plate, chf. The outer hole on the plate is not used. Its the same as original

Jerry

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

The CHF sounded like something that would be beneficial to the handling on my ACE 30.3. However, once I found a u-tube video showing exactly how to do the fix, I think it is a very dangerous modification. The weak point of that modification is the link between the frame and the sway bar. Moving the link to the second hole in the sway bar will stiffen the sway bar the problem I see is that the OEM link is engineered for the load at the first hole. Also, once the link is moved to the second hole that geometry of link sway bar location undoubtedly introduces a shear force in addition the greater tension compression force. In order to work correctly the mounting point of the top of the link needs to be moved to new location on the frame and the link should be beefed up as well. Is there a hole in the frame that would allow moving the top mounting point as well? If not, I would not consider drilling a new hole because of the risk of providing a place for a stress fracture to start. Since replacing the sway bar is also something the back yard mechanic can do the safest thing would be to just buy the sway bar kit. While the kit will cost 5 or 6 hundred dollars the consequences of a failure could end up costing you even more than you "save".

Now here is a question, has anyone pn thins thread done the CHF and had a failure like the one in this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kF0w257Uz3k

[Pete'sMH]

Wouldn’t all of your fears be alleviated by using the longer links usually recommended as part of this procedure? It’s a CHEAP fix, not a FREE one, It certainly worked well for me for the past 6 years.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

The CHF sounded like something that would be beneficial to the handling on my ACE 30.3. However, once I found a u-tube video showing exactly how to do the fix, I think it is a very dangerous modification. The weak point of that modification is the link between the frame and the sway bar. Moving the link to the second hole in the sway bar will stiffen the sway bar the problem I see is that the OEM link is engineered for the load at the first hole. Also, once the link is moved to the second hole that geometry of link sway bar location undoubtedly introduces a shear force in addition the greater tension compression force. In order to work correctly the mounting point of the top of the link needs to be moved to new location on the frame and the link should be beefed up as well. Is there a hole in the frame that would allow moving the top mounting point as well? If not, I would not consider drilling a new hole because of the risk of providing a place for a stress fracture to start. Since replacing the sway bar is also something the back yard mechanic can do the safest thing would be to just buy the sway bar kit. While the kit will cost 5 or 6 hundred dollars the consequences of a failure could end up costing you even more than you "save".

Now here is a question, has anyone pn thins thread done the CHF and had a failure like the one in this video?

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?&...VRV&ajaxhist=0

That video is made by super steer, a company that makes after market suspension upgrades. They are a good company but bias when it comes to the chf. They want to sell sway bars

1000s have done the chf over many years with no problems. Search chf on irv2 and plan to read for weeks on the history and benefits. There have been only a couple documented failures.

It's a free to very low cost mod. Do it or don't its up to you

I have personally talked to Ford and they have no problem with the mod

Just make sure the bolts are torqued to 66 ft lbs with blue loctite

Jerry

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by halfprice

It's a free to very low cost mod. Do it or don't its up to you

Jerry

Yes, indeed it is up to you to do or not. But just remember, if parts fail you get to keep all the parts, and the responsibility for all collateral damage. And whoa be unto you if a failure causes an accident with damage to others beside your own property and injury to someone else. A personal injury lawyer would just have a field day with an unsanctioned modification like this. You also know very well that Ford would deny any such modification as appropriate.

Cheap is not cheap enough if there is even one instance where a failure could result in death or injury. How do we know that there have not been any fatal accidents caused by this modification?

[ThorAce]

Originally Posted by halfprice

I've never heard of or seen where the links would not connect to the bar. Yes some people had problems connecting making it more difficult but it did get done.

Pic of my plates. The metal bar cost $25, I gave my buddy $20 to weld them together, the 2 additional flange bolts and flange nuts (total of 4 sets. Two on each side) were $10. So for $55 my chf was done and the sway bar is almost level.

Second pic is the diagram to make the plates if someone wants to do it.

BUT use two 4" plates not 3 and overlap 1/2" this diagram was made by someone who extended the links so the plates are smaller for his coach

JerryAttachment 22177Attachment 22178

Hi. Looking to do chf and found your post #104 where you showed a measurements of chf plate. Per your recommendations, I will use 4" plates. Do you happen to have the measurements for where to drill the upper holes. Any additional modifications or advise for plates. Thank you for your help

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

Yes, indeed it is up to you to do or not. But just remember, if parts fail you get to keep all the parts, and the responsibility for all collateral damage. And whoa be unto you if a failure causes an accident with damage to others beside your own property and injury to someone else. A personal injury lawyer would just have a field day with an unsanctioned modification like this. You also know very well that Ford would deny any such modification as appropriate.



Cheap is not cheap enough if there is even one instance where a failure could result in death or injury. How do we know that there have not been any fatal accidents caused by this modification?

I won't get into a liability debate with you but I talked to rep at fords corporate rv line, Ford mechanic at Ford truck center when I needed warranty work done. All said it was good to do.

Why do you think they have the additional holes in the bar.

Even if the bar or links broke it would not cause an accident just more sway

There is a recall going on right now for the rear sway bar brackets that are breaking. No accidents from this. The brackets have been a problem since 2016

I'll say this again. Thousands have done this mods with no documented failures or issues

If you don't want to do it that's fine. Buy an after market bar But don't fault people that do it

[UsedChateauGuy]

We purchased a used Thor Class-C motorhome this spring. We've taken a couple of short trips (1+ hours away) and I was not impressed with the handling and amount of lean in corners. This is my first motorhome, and I know they are top-heavy, but it was still much worse than I expected. I looked at the front and rear sway bars and unfortunately the ones on my RV don't have two holes that would allow the CHF so I recently started researching after-market systems.

Well I changed the oil and filter today, and while under there I noticed that the link on the passenger side of the front sway-bar is broken! I hadn't seen this when I looked some time ago from the driver side. No wonder the handling sucked! I've ordered new links and plan to replace them both. I am anxious to see how much better it rides with a working sway bar in front.

I'm posting this to let others know that those links can break and to check them regularly! My RV only has 12,000 miles on it. I can tell from the wear in the hole where the broken stud was that the nut must have loosened up before the stud broke. So from now on I plan to check the nuts regularly.